Just because.
- Thread starter Chris Vu
- Start date
Gil'sCG6
Well-Known Member
you dont read much huh?
either or car is nice!
SykVSyx
Well-Known Member
Other than the front lip, the car is looking good.
*edit*
My bad, it looked like you only had the front lip.
It's not a full WW kit is it?
*edit*
My bad, it looked like you only had the front lip.
It's not a full WW kit is it?
Last edited:
CG6Lemon
Detailing Enthusiast
I overlooked one simple component and that was the size of your pads. DA polishers are meant to be used with any pad larger than 5.5' pads because it takes less power to spin the pads so it offers better correction ability. When you said you didn't prime the pad you might of dry buffed the paint that's why you are seeing the haze.
To prime the pad pour a line of product onto the pad from the middle to one edge and use your index finger to spread it all over the pad. Then squeeze 4 pea sized droplets of product to your pad. To spread your product onto the paint you can choose on of the two techniques that I know of.
First choice is to set your g100 to first speed and go over your working panel in a area no larger than 12x12 quickly, but enough to saturate the area with a film of product on top. Second choice would be to place your pad on top of the work area and glide over your work area without turning on the polisher.
I have no experience using Meg Ultimate Polish but you mentioned you used another cutting pad. In my personal experience, the first step of compounding should yield a 80-99% correction thus not requiring to follow up with another cutting pad. For example, I used Meg 105 with an orange pad which is a very aggressive cutting pad. After I was done the paint was about 90% defect free and did not leave any haze, but slight marring because my car has very soft clear coat. Then I used Menzerna 203 with a white polishing pad to refine my paint to remove the marring.
One thing I forgot to ask you is how long do you work each product before wiping it off? To check and see if you worked the product long enough is to work it until the product turns sorta clearish instead of milky color. There are also some products out there that does not require working it until it's hazed over.
By then my paint was Last Step Protection ready. I personally prefer to apply paste wax by hand instead of the machine, but if you prefer to use the machine then it's fine as well. Next time try to wax your car by hand and not let the wax sit for a long period of time. To see if the wax is ready to be removed or not you can use the finger swipe test. If the swipe is smeared and streaky, that means the wax is not dry. If the swipe is clear and glossy, then the wax is ready to be wiped off.
Hope this helps solve your problem. I might of missed some minor detailed stuff haha. If you have any more questions feel free to pm me. Btw can you tell me your compound,polish, and buffing pads arsenal?
To prime the pad pour a line of product onto the pad from the middle to one edge and use your index finger to spread it all over the pad. Then squeeze 4 pea sized droplets of product to your pad. To spread your product onto the paint you can choose on of the two techniques that I know of.
First choice is to set your g100 to first speed and go over your working panel in a area no larger than 12x12 quickly, but enough to saturate the area with a film of product on top. Second choice would be to place your pad on top of the work area and glide over your work area without turning on the polisher.
I have no experience using Meg Ultimate Polish but you mentioned you used another cutting pad. In my personal experience, the first step of compounding should yield a 80-99% correction thus not requiring to follow up with another cutting pad. For example, I used Meg 105 with an orange pad which is a very aggressive cutting pad. After I was done the paint was about 90% defect free and did not leave any haze, but slight marring because my car has very soft clear coat. Then I used Menzerna 203 with a white polishing pad to refine my paint to remove the marring.
One thing I forgot to ask you is how long do you work each product before wiping it off? To check and see if you worked the product long enough is to work it until the product turns sorta clearish instead of milky color. There are also some products out there that does not require working it until it's hazed over.
By then my paint was Last Step Protection ready. I personally prefer to apply paste wax by hand instead of the machine, but if you prefer to use the machine then it's fine as well. Next time try to wax your car by hand and not let the wax sit for a long period of time. To see if the wax is ready to be removed or not you can use the finger swipe test. If the swipe is smeared and streaky, that means the wax is not dry. If the swipe is clear and glossy, then the wax is ready to be wiped off.
Hope this helps solve your problem. I might of missed some minor detailed stuff haha. If you have any more questions feel free to pm me. Btw can you tell me your compound,polish, and buffing pads arsenal?
Last edited:
I overlooked one simple component and that was the size of your pads. DA polishers are meant to be used with 5.5' pads because it takes less power to spin the pads so it offers better correction ability. When you said you didn't prime the pad you might of dry buffed the paint that's why you are seeing the haze.
To prime the pad pour a line of product onto the pad from the middle to one edge and use your index finger to spread it all over the pad. Then squeeze 4 pea sized droplets of product to your pad. To spread your product onto the paint you can choose on of the two techniques that I know of.
First choice is to set your g100 to first speed and go over your working panel in a area no larger than 12x12 quickly, but enough to saturate the area with a film of product on top. Second choice would be to place your pad on top of the work area and glide over your work area without turning on the polisher.
I have no experience using Meg Ultimate Polish but you mentioned you used another cutting pad. In my personal experience, the first step of compounding should yield a 80-99% correction thus not requiring to follow up with another cutting pad. For example, I used Meg 105 with an orange pad which is a very aggressive cutting pad. After I was done the paint was about 90% defect free and did not leave any haze, but slight marring because my car has very soft clear coat. Then I used Menzerna 203 with a white polishing pad to refine my paint to remove the marring.
One thing I forgot to ask you is how long do you work each product before wiping it off? To check and see if you worked the product long enough is to work it until the product turns sorta clearish instead of milky color. There are also some products out there that does not require working it until it's hazed over.
By then my paint was Last Step Protection ready. I personally prefer to apply paste wax by hand instead of the machine, but if you prefer to use the machine then it's fine as well. Next time try to wax your car by hand and not let the wax sit for a long period of time. To see if the wax is ready to be removed or not you can use the finger swipe test. If the swipe is smeared and streaky, that means the wax is not dry. If the swipe is clear and glossy, then the wax is ready to be wiped off.
Hope this helps solve your problem. I might of missed some minor detailed stuff haha. If you have any more questions feel free to pm me. Btw can you tell me your compound,polish, and buffing pads arsenal?
Haha, thanks for the tips Lemon ! I'm going to try them probably .. today after work. I work in the product until it's pretty much .. well .. 'translucient' haha.
Asfar as my arsenal goes:
M105
M205
Ultimate Compound
M07 Glaze
Gold Class Wax
NXT2.0
SwirlX
Ultimate quik wax
3m waffle cutting pad
3m waffle buffing pad
That's pretty much it. I was looking into getting some w8207's and w9207's but there's no shops around me that sell them .. I've also never used the m105 .. I hear it's like 2000grit sand paper, and I'm hesitant to use it cuz I don't want to put bad scratches in the paint, or burn through it lol. I'm a sissy.
CG6Lemon
Detailing Enthusiast
lol don't worry about the m105. it is not like sand paper at all. You can't put scratches in the paint with a compound unless your pad is clogged like a mother ****er and you're reinstilling the swirls and scratches back onto your paint because you're basically rubbing dirt in a circular motion if your pad is not cleaned after every panel. Only thing to be aware of regardless if you're using a DA or a rotary is to watch for the sharp body lines, edges, and plastic bumpers. Those areas are very prone to be burned even if you are very careful. Otherwise it's kinda hard to burn the paint, but it's not impossible as well with a DA.
CG6Lemon
Detailing Enthusiast
I use this technique shared on autogeekonline.net
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...hen-using-porter-cable-style-da-polisher.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...hen-using-porter-cable-style-da-polisher.html
