Least hassle audio setup recommendations.

[98accordEX]

Get the coaxials if your not gonna get an amp.

you shouldn't have to disconnect the tweets and they should sound pretty good in conjuction with your new coxials and HU. Your probably wouldn't even notice the difference with components.

They are wired inline with your door speakers. So if you just swap the speakers the stock tweets will still play w/o need for bass blocker, crossover, amp, etc.

 

[AFAccord]

Well hold up... here's my only hiccup with the direction you are going.

A headunit, even an aftermarket Alpine unit, isn't going to be putting out the power to make components sound THAT much better than some good 3- or 4-way coaxials. Plus you are looking at a lot more wiring if you go with components (putting the crossovers somewhere, running all the wires behind the dash to the tweeter locations). Honestly, this is just IMHO, if you're only swapping head units and replacing speakers without adding amps, just get some good coaxials. The HU's internal amp is probably 50x4 max 22x4 RMS, with a horrible S:N ratio.

As for the rest of the setup... my buddy has bass blockers for his front speakers and I think it sounds horrible... the cutoff frequency is super-high, so unless you are usinig it for tweeters in a component setup, I'd pass on them. I'm unfamiliar with that head unit, but if its worth a darn it should have built-in Highpass and lowpass filters.

My suggestion based on what you want, is to just get good coaxials and call it a day. The SQ quality difference between them and components running just on the headunit will likely not be worth the extra money.

Amen. Get coaxials, skip the bass blocker bull, and leave the factory tweets wired up.

For locations... well first an amp you could either mount under a seat (I can't vouch for other brands, but I haven't had any heat issues with my nine.1 and it doesn't get hardly any airflow), screw it to the back of your rear seat, mount it upside down under your tray in the trunk, or just mount it to the floor or one of the walls in the trunk.

edit: here's a picture for reference when I was talking about mounting an amp upside down under the rear tray in the trunk

That is soooooo freakin clean! My Memphis Belle 1300 is about that size. How do the trunk torsion bars work with that mounting method? And isn't the surface rather uneven?

Those subs are mounted so the trunk makes a free-air enclosure, what does the front look like?

Get the coaxials if your not gonna get an amp.

you shouldn't have to disconnect the tweets and they should sound pretty good in conjuction with your new coxials and HU. Your probably wouldn't even notice the difference with components.

They are wired inline with your door speakers. So if you just swap the speakers the stock tweets will still play w/o need for bass blocker, crossover, amp, etc.

 

[Wildman]

That is soooooo freakin clean! My Memphis Belle 1300 is about that size. How do the trunk torsion bars work with that mounting method? And isn't the surface rather uneven?

Those subs are mounted so the trunk makes a free-air enclosure, what does the front look like?

I haven't paid a whole lot of attention to the torsion bars up there but you could use some washers or some kind of spacer to get around them if you needed to.

pair of ed ehqs 12's

 

[AFAccord]

lol... what kind of car is that??

 

[Wildman]

lol... what kind of car is that??

camry.. ehqs were mainly to try out for fun while swapping out the image dynamics ID's that used to be there and waiting on the new subs to get in stock. don't know what subs ended up in there, found the pics on another forum

 

[Totalimmortal]

There are some new component sets coming out this year that are really geared towards factory or aftermarket radios. Pioneer just put a set out with a reasonable 50W RMS rating and a 90 db efficiency. Alpine is going to drop the Type-S Components this year as well. 80W RMS with an 88db efficiency, not quite as desirable but a step in the right direction.