I niglected to mention that the rod should be used at a point where the bolt has been driven out as far as posibble. It would allow you to continue to push the bolt through with out interference with the surrounding hole its in.
None the less, the bolt HAS to come out to service the bushing. This is so you can remove the lower control arm from the car all together. To take it and have the old bushing pressed out by a machine shop, and the new one pressed in. I know I work at NAPA and I just bought the whole control arm, both sides, bushings and all.(For the front particularly) Then just bolted them back up.
If you go through with this you'll need to remove two bolts from the torsion bar (#25 in the illustration). The sway bar link nut (#21). The sub frame attachment bolt-to- lower control arm (#23). And the lower ball joint nut also. Not pictured. Have a ball joint seperator on hand for that.
Im trying to avoid removing the LCA as much as possible dont want to run into more stuck bolts...what i was thinking was that maybe i can cut the fork off and burn the rubber to take that part out but first i wanted to know how difficult it would be to push the old part of the bushing out and press in a new one with a vice clamp and no power tools...
i will be tackling this next weeks still got finals this week, as of now im driving around with a stuck bolt and no nut at the end because its stripped...
