Million mile club

Discussion in 'General Chat' started by datechboss101, Oct 16, 2017.

  1. Connie

    Connie Well-Known Member

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    The front bearings are pressed into the knuckle. You can't just by a hub.
    For the rears, yeah, just go buy a hub.

    The video you linked is for a Mercury Mountaineer, btw.
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2017
  2. Enne

    Enne Well-Known Member

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    I replaced the wheel hub assemblies on my Cavalier, which is FWD. You can just buy the entire assembly for it. I assumed the Accord would be the same, but I guess it is not. And yeah, I know the video is of a different car, but it says "the process will be very similar for replacing any wheel bearing hub assembly with an axle running through it" in the description.

    I was not aware it would be different for the Accord. I haven't had wheel bearing issues with mine so I've never looked into the replacement process.

    I've had the wheel bearing and axle in my Camaro replaced, which has pressed-in bearings, and it's really not that hard. I was there with my father when he did it, it didn't take very long to get the old one out/new one in with the proper tools. I suppose if you've never done it before, you could screw it up, but how else are you going to learn? I mean, if you want to maintain your own vehicles instead of taking it to a shop for every little thing, you should learn.

    So, my point still stands that replacing an entire component is faster and easier, just not the component I was thinking of.
     
  3. Connie

    Connie Well-Known Member

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    Sure, you could get the whole knuckle and hub from a junkyard, but then you've got a used bearing and used ball joint. And that ball joint is difficult to separate without damaging it. You might save a few minutes in the short run, but having new parts is worth it as far as I'm concerned.

    Paid under $150 for both front bearings and ball joints when I did mine a few months ago, and only took about an hour a side with hand tools. Having my girlfriend hit the brakes so I could pop off the axle nuts was a big help, too.

    Either way, you're right about learning if you don't want to waste all your money or cant afford to have it done.

    I wasn't trying to be a ****; but didn't want our new member to be misled, either.
     
  4. datechboss101

    datechboss101 Well-Known Member

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    Well, I aint being misled m8. I used to take lucky to the good old stealership for the past 3 years. What are the tools do i need to have for the wheel bearings?

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
     
  5. Connie

    Connie Well-Known Member

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    Other than normal hand tools like wrenches and a socket set, you'll need a big socket and breaker bar for the hub nuts; if memory doesn't fail me I believe it's 36mm.

    I use a big socket I don't care about and a 5lb hammer to beat the old bearing out (while the knuckle is tightly held in a good vise). It'll probably fall apart before it falls out, but who cares, you're replacing it anyways.

    To get the new bearing in, I used a $15 "bearing and race driver" set I picked up at Princess Auto. It is basically a metal bar about 8" long with a threaded hole on one end. It comes with 5 or 6 different diameter adapters for different sized bearings and races. Pick the biggest one you can that is still smaller than the overall diameter of the bearing. Remember to freeze the new bearing first because if you don't you'll have to whack the hell out of it to get it to slide into the hub and risk damaging it.

    Work your way around in circles while gently tapping and make sure it goes in straight, especially for the first half inch or so.

    The tool I used looks something like this; but this one has more adapters and is shiny, so I guess that's why it's more expensive lol.

    https://www.tooltown.ca/Performance-Tool-W83020-7-piece-Bearing-Race-and-Seal-Driver-Set.html

    EDIT: Forgot to mention snap-ring pliers. I managed to get the snap rings for the ball joint and bearing out with needlenose pliers, but a good set of snap ring pliers would have made it much less of a pain in the ***. So that's next on my tools shopping list lol. You will get a new snap ring with the new ball joint, so don't worry about breaking that one. But you'll probably need to re-use the wheel bearing's snap ring; the bearings I got didn't come with new snap rings.
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2017
  6. Nam1911a1

    Nam1911a1 Well-Known Member

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    I'm glad I have a Milwaukee 1/2" electric impact. Those hub nuts came off like 10mm nuts. It's easy when ur impact has 1100ftlbs of nut busting tork!!
     
  7. Connie

    Connie Well-Known Member

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    But then how did you torque it to spec when reinstalling?

    My air impact couldn't even come close to cracking them; It's almost 8 years old so it's probably getting a little tired; probably time for a new one. It definitely would have had no problem when it was new.
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2017
  8. Nam1911a1

    Nam1911a1 Well-Known Member

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    I just hammered down on them till I figured it was good and beat that edge down into the notch. It ain't coming off. Who the hell owns a 300-400 ft lb torque wrench


    Or one could get a 3ft cheater bar and bounce a 100lb weight on it for close to 300ft lbs
     
  9. Connie

    Connie Well-Known Member

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    Hammered them down with the impact? Shock and vibration ore not friends with bearings.
    Over-torqued spindle nuts are also not friends with bearings.

    It's not that hard to get 300ft/lbs with a big torque wrench if someone stands on the brakes for you. (With the car running; the brake booster really is a powerful little device.)
     
  10. Nam1911a1

    Nam1911a1 Well-Known Member

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    As in hammer down I gave the nut a few good impacts with my impact. It's doing fine. The gun is capable of up to 1000ft lbs of torque but I gave it nowhere near full capacity.

    On the low setting it maxes out at 100ft lbs. then I gave it a few good whacks to up it
     

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