Front seat brackets to floor are 25 ft lbs. Brackets to actual seat bottom are 35 ft lbs. I got these numbers from the "paper" version of the FSM. You might want to download the digital version and burn a CD or 2. Going back to some of your earlier posts, I'd say your front end problems are more likely tie rod ends, and or ball joints. Probably both. I only say that as you mentioned back on page 2, that your steering wheel was off (from center) and that comes from tie rods and it can also come from ball joints. Hub bearings don't cause this problem unless they've run dry and ground up the bearings themselves. Usually you'll hear a hub bearing. Although tire noise can be similar, you have decide which it is. In my case the noise I was hearing was there with my summer tires (not showing any wear), and also with my winter tires. Once I had the hubs off, along with 1/2 the inner bearing, I could see rust mixed into the grease and I knew the bearings were shot. These were original bearings to the car, in that they were made in Japan (as was my car). They were also NTN bearings (Timken in the USA, as that's what I replaced them with NTN bearings in Timken made in USA boxes). For your car, I'd get on e-bay, and search for upper control arms, then look for Detroit Axle. Go into their store, and look for a package deal. In my case I found Upper control arms (with new bushings and upper ball joints), lower ball joints, and tie rod ends (outer), along with sway bar end links. I think I paid 103 bucks for all of those parts, and they have a 10 year warranty. The hub bearings I bought thru Rock auto for 50 a pair. While you might think this is a lot, it's actually cheap when you spread it out over miles and years. Plus it replaces everything but the lower control arm and it's 2 bushings. It really fixed my own car, as I just put all of those parts in last month, along with rotors and pads. They were OE parts too, as the lower ball joints didn't have a snap ring, or even a groove for a snap ring (how you tell they are OE). If you go to the Members Rides section, you'll see a couple pics I posted of going thru with that job, along with some of the tools I used. You will need a couple of special tools to do the job. A 1/2" drive breaker bar is definitely #1 on the list. No ands, ifs, or buts about it. In my case I used it along with my 1/2" drive ratchet, and 1/2" drive impact wrench (Ingersol Rand), along with 10,12,14,17, 18, 19, 21, and 36mm sockets (some in 1/4 and 3/8ths drive too), along with some wrenches. And as far as I'm concerned, if you think buying tools is expensive, by all means pay the labor for someone else to do the job. I'll tell you right now I know a guy who would done the hub bearings, lower ball joints job on my Accord for an easy 400 US. Add in the upper control arms and tie rod ends, he would have added another 250 as you have to remove the struts to access the control arm bolts (again labor charges). So the way I look at, sure I burned 2 afternoons on it, but I saved 650 in labor too. If you ever have to change a timing belt set on an F23, plan on a grand at the dealer (that's what they quoted my wife for her 2000 Accord). It took me 5 hours to do it, and that included the water pump (main reason I was in there), plus a 120 water pump/timing belt kit from Rock Auto with shipping.There are 2 belts involved in this job, and I highly recommend adding the balance shaft retainer clip (5 bucks at Rock Auto) to it while you have the timing cover off. I only say that, as if that seal pops out, it'll dump ALL of the oil in a heart beat. It happened to my wife in the driveway, and 3 quarts in 30 feet was the result. :O I've since added that clip to all of my Accords since that happened. Something to keep in mind since you have an F23 with AT, you'll eventually need to clean the EGR port. It might be years before it needs to be done, but it will eventually need to be done. That's a 400 dollar job (labor only) at the dealer plus the cost of the valve and the plenum gasket. This is about a 4 hour job, in that you remove the top of the plenum so you can access the plugged port. Yes, I've done that on my wife's car before (at 226K). Total cost for me doing the job was 120 bucks including the valve (100 bucks at the Zone) and gasket (10 bucks plus shipping thru Rock Auto). I'm only mentioning these things, as they can keep you from getting the life out of your car. But, also 2 or 300 bucks worth of tools can save you thousands of dollars. But, don't just look at what what Harbor Freight offers, as most of their tools are almost 1 shot only. Look at Lowes, and get some Kobalt tools (cheaper version of Snap On). Go to Ace Hardware for Craftsman. Home Depot for Husky, there are decent to good tools out there. Even if you have to rent a tool sometimes having it will make the job go easier and quicker. In my case, I originally rented the Honda lower pulley tool, but I then used it 2 more times, and decided to keep it. Sure it's 50 bucks, but I've used it 3 or 4 times since then, and I'll be using it again once we build my son's Civic engine, as part of it is at the machinist right now, as it spun a bearing 2 months ago. You can take the advice, or leave it, but even my son understands the need for tools and saving money, especially since shop labor is around 65 to 85 an hour (around here).