Need HELP! (Valve Cover)
- Thread starter twokAccord
- Start date
HondaLuver83
Well-Known Member
Yeah, Dealership is the worst place for this, they will probably tell you, you need a new head.
Breaking 1 bolt may be acceptable if he's learning... but 2 or more... he isn't learning.
I assume your friend is a "he".
There should not be any torque left on those thread remnants, so if you are lucky and can get good access to them you may be able to tap them around and out with a small hammer and punch (small screwdriver might work too).
Don't let your pal try this. Is he any good at bringing you beer???
I assume your friend is a "he".
There should not be any torque left on those thread remnants, so if you are lucky and can get good access to them you may be able to tap them around and out with a small hammer and punch (small screwdriver might work too).
Don't let your pal try this. Is he any good at bringing you beer???
AllGOnoSHOW
Well-Known Member
You should always torque bolts to the manufactured spec unless other torque specs are noted from an aftermarket company or part period. What I said really was not funny at all. Its serious. I've seen a lot of mistakes that could have been easily avoided if a torque wrench had been used. But hey its your car lol.
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
dang..are the bolts down in there holes or sticking out?
I broke 1 of mine next to the PCV outlet,and the bolt is down in its hole..so i just but the bolt in place and put silicone around it.. Doh
I broke 1 of mine next to the PCV outlet,and the bolt is down in its hole..so i just but the bolt in place and put silicone around it.. Doh
twokAccord
Well-Known Member
the bolt is down in its hole
finch13
Well-Known Member
Take the valve cover off... see if any are sticking out past their hole in the head.
If the are, use a needle nose or vice grip and spin them out.
If they aren't, grab a dremel and a cutoff wheel and grind a slot in them. Find a torch and heat AROUND the bolt shank and use a flathead to remove them. Do not heat the bolt itself, that would defeat the purpose of expanding the metal. Wipe up the burnt oil when you're done. If you still can't get them out come back and talk to us, there are still a few more options.
Tell your buddy to go to Honda and order (2) 90013-P0A-000 and (3) 90014-P08-000, who cares if he pays more at the dealer, he shouldn't have over-torqued them in the first place.
And yeah, you don't need a torque wrench for everything; the tech at the dealership isn't going to use one for every bolt, he wouldn't make any money it would take so long. Bolts that put pressure on seals/bearings, hold critical parts, engine work, etc. should be torqued.
If the are, use a needle nose or vice grip and spin them out.
If they aren't, grab a dremel and a cutoff wheel and grind a slot in them. Find a torch and heat AROUND the bolt shank and use a flathead to remove them. Do not heat the bolt itself, that would defeat the purpose of expanding the metal. Wipe up the burnt oil when you're done. If you still can't get them out come back and talk to us, there are still a few more options.
Tell your buddy to go to Honda and order (2) 90013-P0A-000 and (3) 90014-P08-000, who cares if he pays more at the dealer, he shouldn't have over-torqued them in the first place.
And yeah, you don't need a torque wrench for everything; the tech at the dealership isn't going to use one for every bolt, he wouldn't make any money it would take so long. Bolts that put pressure on seals/bearings, hold critical parts, engine work, etc. should be torqued.
AllGOnoSHOW
Well-Known Member
I mean I understand you don't need a torque wrench for everything but this could have been avoided if the bolts weren't over tightend.
twokAccord
Well-Known Member
i appreciate the help
thanks everyone
thanks everyone
