To be honest, since you're planning on spending the next 4+ years going to college, I'd look seriously at ALL of the mechanicals on your car first. Then I'd look at a rim and tire change (maybe, due to thefts in the parking lot). But still, I'd probably keep it all 100% stock, and drive it and maintain it. At 135K, you should be able to put on another 100K without having to spend a lot of money. This savings could be put toward tools, a hydraulic floor jack, jack stands, tune up parts and or an emergency fund for an unexpected needed now repair. Just a thought.
Yeah.... my car is almost done with the repairs, and its like 99.9% stock right now. I do have plans on getting a proper project car later on, and of course, getting the proper tools, so I can brag about my car being Built, not bought. My car is near 113k miles right now. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
If you say it's almost done with repairs, but then you also say it's 99.9% stock. To me that leaves a lot open on what can go bad. Things like a master cylinder, or a brake hose, or a clutch part. Remember, these parts are almost 20 years old right now. I'm not saying they'll let go tomorrow, but it can happen. That's what I was meaning on an emergency fund. And with it having 20K less miles, means it can go 20K more miles. But just remember, it's an almost 20 year old car, sure it's a Honda, but still it's almost 20 years old.
When I mean by stock, i mean the guts are OEM Honda parts that the dealer replaced due to age... the only thing that aint stock is the front door speakers and HU. Thats how I define stock in my dictionary... Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
This. Too many people think because its a honda its impervious to damage. All it takes is a few WOT pulls with low oil or for a coolant hose to burst and you dont notice until the car shuts off, an aging timing belt thats had enough. Too many things that can go bad. Even new parts can fail so you really need to look at the whole car and see what really needs to be done. Start with the most detrimental to the cars driveability and go from there. If it leaks a lot, dont drive it, if the wheel hub is screaming, dont drive it, if it knocks when you go over 2000 rpm stop driving it!
Yeah and dealer has all of the write ups from August 2014... front sway bar links and lower ball joint boots, timing belt, spark plugs, tires, right cv axle, front wheel bearings, rear door lock actuators, right side foldable mirror, one headlight bulb, starter, battery, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, heater control unit, front bumper... thats all that i can remember that was done recently other than my 3000 mile/ 6 month oil change interval that I choose. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
When was the cap and rotor replaced? Spark plug wires? Has the EGR port been cleaned? Was the water pump replaced when the timing belt was replaced? Just asking as these are a couple of things that can break down related to the engine. Also, when was the last drain and fill done on the transmission? These transmissions are known to go, and a drain and fill is a preventative measure. A good idea is to do a drain and fill every 3 months (you're only changing 3 quarts at a time), or save up money to plan on replacing it. Keep in mind a rebuild is about 1200 bucks, plus any additional parts and fluid. A used JDM trans will run between 5 and 800, plus parts, labor, fluid, and shipping. Connie found a new AT from the dealership is 10K Canadian, and their rebuilt ones are 8K Canadian. This is of course without installation or labor. Otherwise, you've got a good start on which to build off of. P.S. That's of course not mentioning things like the L/R multiplexer going or something like that in the electronics.
I cannot recall when the last time the spark wires, cap & rotor were replaced and if the EGR and throttle body was cleaned. However, after everything critical is complete, I will be attacking these one by one, with a hope for a successful DIY project. The water pump was replaced, as it was the dealer that did the timing belt job, so basically everything that was needed to be replaced while doing the timing belt was done. I just had a transmission D&F done in late May 2017, as I really come close to putting 12k miles per year (well, that'll change to roughly to 25k miles per year soon). Dealer and indie mech said the transmission is rock solid, so I don't got to worry that much; Plus, dealer just added some ATF last month when I took it in for an oil change, as the seal was causing sooooo much leakage. Once the tranny starts to go, I got plans to put a 6spd MT or AT from the 9GA.
I hope you're planning on doing an engine change too, to use either of those transmissions. I only say that, as the F motor is a reverse rotation engine, while both of those transmissions are regular rotation engines (like a K engine).
