10W-30 is only thicker in the winter, they are the same viscosity in the summer, dont bother switching, it will make virtually no difference. If you want thicker in the summer, you would have to go up to 40 weight.
A multi viscosity oil has 2 indications, the xW(0, 5, 10 or 20 usually) This is the viscosity in the "W" or
winter (and cold temps, thus winter....) yes the W stands for winter...the -x(20 30 40 50 etc) is the viscosity in the summer, or warmer temps. thus 5w-30 and 10w-30 have the same thickness(flow characteristics) in the summer as well as normal operating temp. The startup viscosity between the 2 in the summer time is negligible.
Bottom line, just use 5w-30, or bump up to 40. This is the recommended action for high mileage vehicles, go to a 40 weight, such a 10w-40.
AND:
I have used pennzoil, mobil clean 5k, and gtx. I like gtx the best. Why? Pennzoil work fine, but I have know a lot of friends with blown motors that only use pennzoil. Mobil clean 5k made my valves noisy, and gtx seems to work fine. In actuality, the differences between conventional oils is also very minute, but I would agree stick with the same brand once you choose.
Yes, you can top of your oil. Just make sure that if it's convetional, don't use synthetic, if it's synthetic, don't use conventional. As for brands, i've always been told to just stick to something for the life of the car if possible.
Check the bottles, most synthetics mix now, I know castol and mobil DO ......but if its a high mileage car(over 75k) I would not put synthetic in, it could knock out essential deposits that have been formed in the motors and cause leaks and premature wear.