Mikey
Well-Known Member
Odd that they'd get rid of the other light in order to make one a rear fog. I'd think they'd just do like other brands and make that one light a constant bright, like a brake light that's stuck on. Like this...
trunk lid tailight help
- Thread starter kevirl
- Start date
ok guys, so horn works, checked cruise related fuses weren't blown, so then tested cruise main switch with multimeter.
I just want to check i'm testing it right. Multimeter is working as it beeps when probes are touched together.
With the switch out of the car and pressed in on position, I should be getting continuity (a beep) with one probe on terminal 1 and the other probe on terminal 2 or on terminal 3?
Im only getting beep with probes on 2 and 3 in on position. Nothing when on 1 and 2.
And nothing at all when tested in off position going by diagram below.
That looks like replacement right?
I just want to check i'm testing it right. Multimeter is working as it beeps when probes are touched together.
With the switch out of the car and pressed in on position, I should be getting continuity (a beep) with one probe on terminal 1 and the other probe on terminal 2 or on terminal 3?
Im only getting beep with probes on 2 and 3 in on position. Nothing when on 1 and 2.
And nothing at all when tested in off position going by diagram below.
That looks like replacement right?
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james'99
Well-Known Member
2 and 3 seem like the important ones to the operation here. 1 may pertain the the illumination of the button when the head lights are on. 3 only seems to change when the cruise is turned on or off. Do you get the beep from 2 and 3 with the switch off? I would be looking more towards the adjustment of the brake pedal switch. You would think if your brake lights work properly, this wouldn't be the issue. Well you would be wrong just as I was when I began diagnosing my cruise a while back. It turned out the witch was ever so slightly out of adjustment. It is a dipole switch. That's what causes the issue. If you have a 5 speed, this could also be an issue with the switch on the clutch pedal. Don't overtighten either one of those. Preloading the clutch will cause premature failure and preloading the brakes will always leave the brakes engaged.
james'99
Well-Known Member
no beep between 2 and three with switch off. its an AT transmission by the way.
ill look at brake switch adjustment. any tips on how you got yours working when you did adjustment? Thanks
Where are you getting your procedures from? Is it from the actual Honda service manual? I like it
The less adjustment you do, the better. But you also don't want it to be at a point where a bump in the road shuts it off. Adjusting the pedal is not important. Adjusting the sensor is where I would start honestly. If the pedal functions properly where it is, it has worn together with the rest of the part so I say leave it alone.
Break the lock nut loose and start with one full 360 degree turn on the sensor, lock the nut and try again. Make sure it doesn't ever actually push down on the pedal.
Does the cruise light on your dash come on currently when you try to engage? Just making sure it isn't.
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Yeah service manual pdf.
A bit of adjustment and its engaging now. Button still doesn't illuminate, even with headlights on but thats not a big deal. i'm getting 'cruise control' lit up on dash and its working as it should.
Thanks james!
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james'99
Well-Known Member
james'99
Well-Known Member
Just the main cruise switch button, should it illuminate with a light when pressed?
That top window part should illuminate green when pressed. The cruise part should light up white as a back light when headlights are on.
You'll see in the picture above that there are two bulbs that go into the side of it.
This link won't be of much use to you in the UK but...
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=2001&catcgry3=2DR+EX+%28LEATHER%29&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=SWITCH
The "green" bulb, #6: 35861-S84-T01
The "white" bulb, #4: 35850-SZ3-911
