james'99
Well-Known Member
Those are obviously not OEM but you get an idea that the button and light should both light.
Two bulbs in the side.
I posted twice in a row. Make sure you see my last post on the previous page.
trunk lid tailight help
- Thread starter kevirl
- Start date
Those are obviously not OEM but you get an idea that the button and light should both light.
Two bulbs in the side.
I posted twice in a row. Make sure you see my last post on the previous page.
Those are obviously not OEM but you get an idea that the button and light should both light.
Two bulbs in the side.
I posted twice in a row. Make sure you see my last post on the previous page.
Thanks. its actually easy enough to get any parts from honda over here. so ill have a look for those bulbs.
james'99
Well-Known Member
Yeah, definitely. Just for a reference though now since you have the part numbers. If you find your cruise disengaging on bumps, just tighten it down a little bit more. How is everything else on the car?
Well since you asked lol.
Its running pretty nice, and no clunks from transmission which is good.
I'm making more of an effort to do as much as I can myself, in the past I just left it to mechanic so I'm still learning.
Probably a few more things I should look at.
Power steering fluid level was pretty low although no steering problems yet, are the ends of these hoses a problem?
Shaking through steering wheel under braking, I'm waiting to get a better jack and some jack stands to have a look, maybe change rotors and pads.
And a/c blowing not blowing cold but heating works fine. The coolant level is down to the very bottom in expansion tank but level is full looking in at radiator with the radiator cap off. Engine temp is fine. No obvious leaks under the car. I've heard there's a number of thinks to check like condenser etc.
And maybe new distrubutor o-ring?
Looks like last owner sprayed valve cover red while it was still on car...
so im looking at taking it off in future and stripping the paint off, maybe try and polish it up.
Last edited:
james'99
Well-Known Member
Got a local car wash with an engine degreaser? May want to clean up the entire bay. That fluid could be old but hard to tell.
Alright. Power Steering first. Get a conical wire brush and some scotch brite. Remove the hoses. Clean inside the ends and where they go on and put them back on. You'll probably need PS fluid. USE ONLY HONDA POWER STEERING FLUID. Add to the reservoir, start the engine, turn the wheel back and forth till all air is out of the system.
Brakes... Got ceramic brake pads? Rotors are probably shot. Even so, they are probably shot regardless of the pad. Running your finger across the rotor should tell the story there. If there is a lot of waviness, you have your problem. Again, this isn't foolproof, but pretty good. A little waviness is usually fine.
Engine coolant has nothing to do with A/C. However, it does have to do with heat. Circulates through heater core and fan blows hot air off of it. Air conditioning uses a gas to work commonly referred to as free-on. I don't know if that is the exact chemical that is used nowadays but that's a common reference. They sell the stuff in a can now that you can recharge the system yourself. Buy the stuff with the UV dye so when it leaks out again, you can get an ultraviolet light and figure out where its going!
And yeah, if you plan on removing the valve cover, replace the gasket. The o-ring for the distributor is always a good measure to take as well too because it tends to be a somewhat common oil leak.
The o-ring for the actual distributor cap however is not as important critical nor subjected to as much engine heat or any oil. It's more of a water deterrent.
Alright. Power Steering first. Get a conical wire brush and some scotch brite. Remove the hoses. Clean inside the ends and where they go on and put them back on. You'll probably need PS fluid. USE ONLY HONDA POWER STEERING FLUID. Add to the reservoir, start the engine, turn the wheel back and forth till all air is out of the system.
Brakes... Got ceramic brake pads? Rotors are probably shot. Even so, they are probably shot regardless of the pad. Running your finger across the rotor should tell the story there. If there is a lot of waviness, you have your problem. Again, this isn't foolproof, but pretty good. A little waviness is usually fine.
Engine coolant has nothing to do with A/C. However, it does have to do with heat. Circulates through heater core and fan blows hot air off of it. Air conditioning uses a gas to work commonly referred to as free-on. I don't know if that is the exact chemical that is used nowadays but that's a common reference. They sell the stuff in a can now that you can recharge the system yourself. Buy the stuff with the UV dye so when it leaks out again, you can get an ultraviolet light and figure out where its going!
And yeah, if you plan on removing the valve cover, replace the gasket. The o-ring for the distributor is always a good measure to take as well too because it tends to be a somewhat common oil leak.
The o-ring for the actual distributor cap however is not as important critical nor subjected to as much engine heat or any oil. It's more of a water deterrent.
james'99
Well-Known Member
Having a clean engine is always great! Easy to identify leaks, and a lot cleaner to work on.
