658 for the IACV replacement is way too much. Can't you just clean it? Take a look at this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOECtpdfqyk
BTW I bought that IACV gasket like 4 years ago and never got around to replacing it. If my car does ever act up again I might try cleaning the IACV next.
Awesome Vid, now I have a better understanding for that part and when im ready to do it I will refer to that
But im going to end up doing exactly what you did. Except its $800 now for the kit I believe it was PN: 06161P8C-A00
well I just got off the phone with honda of ocala florida and they informed me the PN is now 06161P8C-A01 lol. and for future refference its $800 in parts and $230 labor that includes flashing the PCM. :/
Definitely. You can pick up an IACV from NAPA or AutoZone for around $120 or so. A little more if you decide to get it from the stealership of course. Changing the IACV itself will probably take about 30min or so.
You can also clean out the IACV as cl206 said. I did that to mine, but it caused a revving issue when in park / neutral. It eventually sorted itself out as the ECU eventually compensated for the cleaned out IACV.
Yes sir, after watching the video Cl posted for us im just going to fork out the monies for the fpr pcm updated kit... P.I.M.A because first i have to get my temp sens. and cam seal fixed $458..
Yes, the vacuum line would need plugging as it attaches to the intake air manifold. If left open it would allow extra air into the engine and probably raise the idle speed a bit. Much in the same way that the IACV allows a controlled amount of air to by-pass the main throttle plate at idle.
Ok yeslol, so last night I was with my female friend and the car acted up on our way home and w.ew.e so i unplugged the vacuum line and plugged it started the car then tried to plug back into car wile it was still on and once the line reconnected the car slowly died... soo i was like fu** it and left it unplugged un connected. And the only difference i noticed is wasting way more gas but i actually had better throttle response and seemed like more power lol...
The IACV code and FPR could be a connected problem if there is an air leak somewhere.
Did the dealer do the FPR test in the hot restart 20 minute failure window?? probably not. This could be a transient issue with that component that will be difficult to find with a standard test. Having the hood up or down could make a temperature difference in the valve that would change how it acts. Tricky.
I did not think of doing this its honestly so much trouble to re create the problem on spot wile getting it diagnosed for the 10th time and try so many different things lol everyones like man just sell it..**** that I love my 6th gen and the community behind it.
I did clean out the IACV on our V6 at about 90K miles - just because - and there really wasn't much carbon or crud in it. I don't think that applies to the I4 engines. If I remember correctly, there are a couple of tiny coolant hoses attached to the V6 IACV that have to come off for access, so I would plan cleaning that out when you do a coolant change.
I still think the fans are a seperate issue and not related to any of the other components. They are driven by the A/C being switched on and a coolant temp sensor. I would only worry about those if the temperature gauge is going up.
Thank you for this. with your information im going to take my car in to get the fans fixed tomo. then next week or jan 5th at latest ill be getting the FPR PCM kit installed. If the problem is still there I will replace the IACV if that doesnt work im driving off a cliff
Meanwhile I will be duplicating the problem or at least I will make a video of the issue and how to bypass the vacuum when it occurs.
