Russianred
Snail Spools You!
Suffers from low-voltage because there is a steady current leak somewhere in your system perhaps. Could be bad grounds too.
Very rough idle, stalls, on hot starts
- Thread starter beachtech
- Start date
carbonaccord
New Member
Sorry for bumping an old post. I'm having the same issue with a 2000 Accord EX V6. I tried everything and even expert Honda mechanics couldn't fix my problem.
I gotta say the heatsoak thing must be the cause. Just want to say how awesome this forum is!
BTW they should really do a extended warranty on this. I never had this problem even at 80,000 miles. Now at 100K I'm having this problem constantly.
I gotta say the heatsoak thing must be the cause. Just want to say how awesome this forum is!
BTW they should really do a extended warranty on this. I never had this problem even at 80,000 miles. Now at 100K I'm having this problem constantly.
ihaveaquestion
Well-Known Member
The main relay didn't do much for me. I believe the problem is the heat soak as mentioned before.
Good luck.
Good luck.
HashGobbler420
Member
so was this ever put to rest? im having same exact issue on my you guessed it 2000 accord v6 ex..I have an optima yellow so i dont really get the voltage but the shop is telling me my temp sensors are shot and thats my issue going in at 8am any replys welcome im paying 600$ mostly labor :// i would hate to hear it is the heat soak instead after i do the fans i know they need to be done but ehh?? imput
CDsDontBurn
Well-Known Member
I haven't attempted to solve this and have just been dealing with it. Though, some people say that this could be the IACV that is causing this. So, you might want to replace that first as it's an easy fix and inexpensive compared to the FPR fix posted by cl206.
HashGobbler420
Member
True man :/ i hope you can look into fixing it soon. I know its a pain in the *** and i hate reving up and throwing it into gear .
As i think about this issue im going to look into the that IACV and possibly hold off on the major work ive put so much money into diag this issue everyone is dumbfounded hell can i run it and it wont cause any other issues?
Ill hold off cause i want to swap the motor. now after the swap will this issue still be there or?
As i think about this issue im going to look into the that IACV and possibly hold off on the major work ive put so much money into diag this issue everyone is dumbfounded hell can i run it and it wont cause any other issues?
Ill hold off cause i want to swap the motor. now after the swap will this issue still be there or?
CDsDontBurn
Well-Known Member
AFAIK, this issue is only most common on the 2000 v6 though it could still happen on '98 and '99 from what I understand.
And, when this happens to me what I do to "fix" this is just sit there parked and rev the engine for like 5min until it goes away. Basically, just rev the engine for like 30 seconds and easily let go of the gas to see if it will idle correctly or not. Once it idles correctly is when I put it in gear.
And, when this happens to me what I do to "fix" this is just sit there parked and rev the engine for like 5min until it goes away. Basically, just rev the engine for like 30 seconds and easily let go of the gas to see if it will idle correctly or not. Once it idles correctly is when I put it in gear.
My car just recently hit 140,000 miles and my dad drives it a little too but as far as I know, the issue hasn't resurfaced. I have mentioned that there were a couple of times I thought it might just start and die again, but didn't. Usually it starts up very good and my idle doesn't jump up and down like it use to.
For those of you willing to spend that money, read my post on that heat soak carefully to determine if it indeed is your problem. You can try to live with it once you know how it starts and dies but if you give it gas to get it going, it might occasionally throw a CEL which can be cleared. Good luck!
There is only a small window of minutes when the car will start and die after a hot engine has been shut off. I didn't time mine exactly but my guess was that it was about 15-25 minutes after shutting the car off. It would ALWAYS start after sitting for about 45 minutes or more and maybe even 30 minutes. Like I said, I didn't time mine exactly all the time.
For those of you willing to spend that money, read my post on that heat soak carefully to determine if it indeed is your problem. You can try to live with it once you know how it starts and dies but if you give it gas to get it going, it might occasionally throw a CEL which can be cleared. Good luck!
There is only a small window of minutes when the car will start and die after a hot engine has been shut off. I didn't time mine exactly but my guess was that it was about 15-25 minutes after shutting the car off. It would ALWAYS start after sitting for about 45 minutes or more and maybe even 30 minutes. Like I said, I didn't time mine exactly all the time.
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HashGobbler420
Member
cl and cd thank you guys for the information.
I saw somewhere there was a way to test if it was the FPR. and it was to duplicate the problem and unplug a hose on the FPR and plug with somthing. well i drove my 2000 v6 sedan 15 minutes went home shut her off went in got somthing to eat 15-20 mins later came out and it would crank then bog down and die so i unplugged the hose plugged it with an allen wrench and i almost **** my pants when.. it started. it was hesitant a little but started rite up after it wouldnt start with it plugged in to the FPR. so i unplugged it and re attached it and tried to start me car again and nothing.. soo ill be doing the FPR PCM asap.
Is this a bring into shop fix or should i be able to just slap thoes two new parts on? im going to read more just askin thanks guys.
I swear as soon as this issues fixed i can move on with my life lol and internals
I saw somewhere there was a way to test if it was the FPR. and it was to duplicate the problem and unplug a hose on the FPR and plug with somthing. well i drove my 2000 v6 sedan 15 minutes went home shut her off went in got somthing to eat 15-20 mins later came out and it would crank then bog down and die so i unplugged the hose plugged it with an allen wrench and i almost **** my pants when.. it started. it was hesitant a little but started rite up after it wouldnt start with it plugged in to the FPR. so i unplugged it and re attached it and tried to start me car again and nothing.. soo ill be doing the FPR PCM asap.
Is this a bring into shop fix or should i be able to just slap thoes two new parts on? im going to read more just askin thanks guys.
I swear as soon as this issues fixed i can move on with my life lol and internals
cl and cd thank you guys for the information.
I saw somewhere there was a way to test if it was the FPR. and it was to duplicate the problem and unplug a hose on the FPR and plug with somthing. well i drove my 2000 v6 sedan 15 minutes went home shut her off went in got somthing to eat 15-20 mins later came out and it would crank then bog down and die so i unplugged the hose plugged it with an allen wrench and i almost **** my pants when.. it started. it was hesitant a little but started rite up after it wouldnt start with it plugged in to the FPR. so i unplugged it and re attached it and tried to start me car again and nothing.. soo ill be doing the FPR PCM asap.
Is this a bring into shop fix or should i be able to just slap thoes two new parts on? im going to read more just askin thanks guys.
I swear as soon as this issues fixed i can move on with my life lol and internals
Maybe I missed something, but how did the engine get gas when you unplug the hose to the regulator? Or did you just bypass that?
You would need the new FPR and PCM. I ordered the parts from Tim Poliniak of Acura of Peoria. (it was a complete kit. You can find the link and info from my original heat soak post) It was the cheapest I could find. You can swap them urself but the key needs to be reprogrammed to the new PCM (otherwise if you just swap them, it will not start because the key and the PCM are like "who the ^@&# are you?". I brought the car to my local dealership and asked them to do it and they charged me an hour flat rate which for me was about $120; it included swapping the 2 parts and reprogramming of key to the new PCM. I think just asking them to reprogram the key would have at least been half an hour or more, so why not have them do the whole job. BTW according to the TSB, this should be like a half hour job so the cost should be anywhere from 30min to 1 hr. If they try to get you for more than an hour say HELL NO.
I was so stoked when after doing this, I tried it and the car didn't die.
Keep us posted!
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