Viper 5901 Alarm DIY!

Discussion in 'DIY - Do It Yourself Forum' started by dorkiedoode, Jun 1, 2010.

Car Parts
  1. dorkiedoode

    dorkiedoode Well-Known Member

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    Hello guys this will be my first time installing an alarm and I will be tackling a Viper 5901. Frequently I read that people recommend taking it to the pro's but I'm on summer vacation with A LOT of free time on my hands so I took it upon myself to make projects to keep myself busy and productive. I love learning new things so I decided that it would be fun to learn how to install alarms. Note that I am not a PRO nor anywhere near it, but I do have BASIC electrical knowledge to install an alarm. Now supposedly the Viper 5901 is one of the hardest alarm to install and it comes with the worst instruction manual in the world! However, luckily our car is one of the easiest :flipoff:. So I probably will not be able to answer all your questions (or any hard ones) LOL but this is how I did it and it works :thumbsup:. Please if your not confident enough to install it then do take it to the pros. I am not responsible if you f'ed up your car!! It took me two days of research, a day on probing wires with a digital multimeter (DMM), and several hours to install. Actually, I'm still in the process of cleaning up the wires, mounting the antenna, installing a trunk relay, and bypass module. Here we go..might take me several days to finish it...I took pix of everything...kind of. Some of my method is not the best so I suggest you do your own research as well. Soldering the wires is recommended but some wires i just used t-taps because its a pain the in *** to get at... Will update this thread over time.. Writing this at 5:40AM so its messy...

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    Parts
    Viper 5901
    Digital MutliMeter
    Transponder Bypass ( I am getting the one from Idatalink ADS-TBSL HA)
    Soldering Iron
    Electrical Tape
    Wire Stripper and Crimper
    Heat Shrink
    Wiring Diagram
    T-Taps
    Wire Looms
    Pliers
    Loads of free time
    Instruction Manual
    (http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Viper/N5702V_2008_08web.pdf)

    STEP 1:
    Research research research I can't stress that enough. here are some site that i used to help me understand it better.
    1] 12volt.com ( I googled Honda Accord and read through 100 of pages lol)
    2] http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-audio-security/364122-diy-viper-5701-install-ct9a.html
    3] http://causeforalarm.thecarthing.com/version6/stealth_alarm/ek_civic/index.html
    4] http://www.acuraworld.com/forums/f72/very-detailed-install-viper-5901-remote-start-87562/


    STEP 2:

    1999 HONDA ACCORD EX-L V6 COUPE WITH FACTORY ALARM Wiring Diagram
    There are several different versions that i found on the net. I actually used three different ones for different wires.
    1. [http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=60729&KW=1999+accord+wiring
    2. http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=99405&KW=python+accord
    3. 12 volt diagram

    STEP THREE:
    PROBE YOUR WIRES!! MAKE SURE THEY ARE CORRECT.

    STEP FOUR:
    INSTALL :ohsnap:

    VIPER 5901
    Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector


    H1/1 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
    H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT
    H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT
    H1/4 WHITE/BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard rel
    H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND
    H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT
    H1/7 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT
    H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT
    H1/9 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
    H/10 WHITE/BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT
    H/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT
    H/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT

    CAR WIRING FOR H1 HARNESS (pictures will be provided for wires that are not obvious. IF left blank, connection is not needed!)

    PIN--------VEHICLE WIRE---------------LOCATION


    H1/1--------WHITE/RED (+) ------------driver's kick panel, needs a relay! (http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram8.html)
    H1/2--------WHITE (+)-----------------at ignition switch or anywhere you can find a constant 12v
    H1/3--------RED WIRE ON VIPER SIREN (+) --siren lead
    H1/4
    H1/5--------BLACK (-) -----------------anywhere you can find ground
    H1/6
    H1/7--------ORANGE (-) ------------------ same connector as the trunk release. grey 18 pin connector driver side kick panel
    H1/8--------BLACK/WHITE (-) -----------passenger's fuse panel at green 4 pin connector
    H1/9
    H/10
    H/11--------RED/BLACK (+)--------------driver's fuse panel 20 pin connector
    H/12

    Trunk Release
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    Door Trigger Location
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    Viper 5901

    Auxiliary harness (H2), 8-pin connector
    H2/1 LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
    H2/2 LIGHT GREEN/WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT
    H2/3 WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT
    H2/4 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT
    H2/5 WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT
    H2/6 LIGHT BLUE (-) 200mA 2ND UNLOCK OUTPUT
    H2/7 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT
    H2/8 BROWN/BLACK (-) 200Ma HORN HONK OUTPUT


    CAR WIRING FOR H2 HARNESS (pictures will be provided for wires that are not obvious.IF left blank, connection is not needed!)
    [/COLOR]
    PIN--------VEHICLE WIRE---------------LOCATION


    H2/1------connect to wire that unlocks the car------ wire is located in the passenger side. look below for the door lock harness. this wire needs to be connected so the factory alarm does not engage when R/S is used or trunk release. (When I did not use this wire the factory alarm would always go off if I R/S or trunk release).
    H2/2
    H2/3
    H2/4
    H2/5
    H2/6
    H2/7
    H2/8---------LIGHT GREEN/BLUE (-) [email protected] STEERING COLUMN HARNESS



    Viper 5901

    Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector


    H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
    H3/2 RED/WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
    H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
    H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)
    H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)
    H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT
    H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
    H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY
    H3/9 RED/BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT
    H3/10 NC (no connection) NC

    CAR WIRING FOR H3 HARNESS (pictures will be provided for wires that are not obvious.IF left blank, connection is not needed!)


    PIN--------VEHICLE WIRE---------------LOCATION


    H3/1--------BLACK/YELLOW--------------IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
    H3/2--------WHITE--------------IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
    H3/3--------YELLOW--------------IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
    H3/4--------BLACK/WHITE--------------IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
    H3/5--------BLACK/WHITE--------------IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
    H3/6--------WHITE--------------IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
    H3/7--------WHITE/BLACK--------------IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
    H3/8
    H3/9--------WHITE--------------IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
    H3/10


    IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
    located in the steering column. It is connected from the driver's fuse box to the ignition switch.
    Function ------- polarity----------------Vehicle Wire
    Constant 12V------------ + -------------------- WHITE
    Ignition-------------- + -------------------- BLACK/YELLOW
    Accessory----------- + --------------------- YELLOW
    Accessory 2--------- + ---------------------- WHITE/BLACK
    Starter--------------- + ---------------------- BLACK/WHITE

    Ignition Harness Location
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    ****when i first did my research i had trouble understanding how to wire the starter (black/white) wire. What you actually do here is cut the starter wire in half. Half of that wire that is connected to the fusebox is the "car side of the starter kill." The other half that is connected to the ignition switch is called the "key side of the starter kill wire."***


    Viper 5901

    Remote start input, 5-pin connector


    1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT
    2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE
    3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE
    4 GRAY N/O or N/C (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT
    5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT

    CAR WIRING FOR REMOTE START INPUT (pictures will be provided for wires that are not obvious.IF left blank, connection is not needed!)


    PIN--------VEHICLE WIRE---------------LOCATION


    1--------GROUND (-) -------------------any ground
    2--------BLUE----------------------driver side right strut tower in the engine bay or at the distributor or behind the cluster
    3--------WHITE/BLACK (+)-----------switch above pedal
    4-------- ALARM HOOD PIN (-)--------wherever you mount it
    5--------NOT YET----------will be installing this later on, needs a relay!

    Brake Shutdown Wire Location
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Viper 5901

    Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin

    NOT USED




    Viper 5901

    Door lock harness, 3-pin connector


    1 BLUE (+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT
    2
    3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT

    CAR WIRING FOR Door lock harness, 3-pin connector (pictures will be provided for wires that are not obvious.IF left blank, connection is not needed!)

    PIN--------VEHICLE WIRE---------------LOCATION

    1----------ORANGE (-)------------------passenger fuse panel
    2
    3----------BLACK/BLUE (-)--------------passenger fuse panel

    Door Lock and Unlock Location
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Finish!! Wasn't so bad right? Yep the install wasn't hard just time consuming. Now just program your remote and test if R/S works and everything. I did not buy the bypass module yet so I don't have instructions for it. You won't be able to R/S until you get it but you can test if it works by putting the key in the ign and R/S.

    EDITED: Remote Start is finished and installed using ADS-TBSL HA as the bypass module.


    Go to idatalink website to download the wiring guide for their bypass module.

    ADS-TBSL HA

    1/
    2/
    3/ GREEN/RED- SYNCHRO = this wire connects to the blue wire at the 5 pin green connector located at the key barrel
    4/
    5/ GRAY/RED- DATA OUT ECM SIDE= this wire is connected to the red data wire that will be cut in half( red data wire that isl going towards the car).. at the 5 pin green connector located at the key barrel
    6/ GRAY/YELLOW- DATA IN KEY SIDE= this wire is connected to the red data wire that will be cut in half (red data wire that is going to the key barrel).. at the 5 pin green connector located at the key barrel
    7/
    8/
    9/ PINK- IGNITION INPUT = this wire is connected to the yellow/black wire at the 5 pin green connector located at the key barrel

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    Last edited: Oct 31, 2011
  2. Totalimmortal

    Totalimmortal Well-Known Member

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    Bad ***!
     
  3. CG6Lemon

    CG6Lemon Detailing Enthusiast

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    dam! really awesome!!!!!!!!!!! :boink:
     
  4. finch13

    finch13 Well-Known Member

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    Good write up, I thought of doing one and had no motivation after installing the alarm.

    Where did you end up mounting the brain? I double sided taped mine on top of my deck.

    Have you checked if your door trigger works? I believe I used the same wire as you and mine doesn't work. I read that you can't use the circuit for the dome light, it has to be a door switch on our cars for some reason.

    And for the love of God, why did you spend all this time wiring and then use T-taps?!?!?!
     
  5. Totalimmortal

    Totalimmortal Well-Known Member

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    Dome light is what I've always used on almost every car, works every time
     
  6. finch13

    finch13 Well-Known Member

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    I know, but for some reason they said it couldn't be done on this car.
     
  7. dorkiedoode

    dorkiedoode Well-Known Member

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    my trigger works fine and i tapped because it was a tight spot and didn't want to deal with it. i soldered everything else.

    hmm what year model is your car? does it come with factory alarm?
     
  8. 1NonlyAccord

    1NonlyAccord Well-Known Member

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    damn..so nice..iv been dying to fix best buys crappy job..so messy..but im scared..so many wires going everywhere! ha
     
  9. cvjoint

    cvjoint Well-Known Member

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    I've been reading a bit on diy alarms for my S2k and it seems like diy is the only way to go if you want the alarm to actually do anything for you. Unless you install it in an unconventional spot the thieves will find it with a blindfold on.

    Since I'm selling my Accord I want to take out my Viper alarm and transfer it to the S2k. The problem is I never touched an alarm. Can I just jump in and cut wires to get it out or do I need to do something special?

    How did you deal with the OEM immobilizer, that seems to be the greatest challenge to our cars right?

    Great thread btw!
     
  10. Totalimmortal

    Totalimmortal Well-Known Member

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    That's where I got mine last I checked lol

    Take it to Best Buy and MAKE them re-do it. There is no reason it should be a mess. I'd be livid!!
     

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