HondaLuver83
Well-Known Member
My 2010 accord coupe V6 was just totaled last month. Hello 2008 335i .
What'd you do to your accord today?
- Thread starter HondaLuver83
- Start date
CDsDontBurn
Well-Known Member
Dirty Girl got lots of TLC two weeks ago. Left out working on the rear end links because I found out that the passenger side bracket where the end link attaches to rear knuckle had broken off.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HzT5DgGaWYR2TsCN9
After doing it all, Dirty Girl's stopping power was about the same as before, "meh" status basically. After about a week of driving, I found out that I did have a slight goof-up relating to the braking setup. Basically, on the passenger rear banjo bolt to the caliper, I failed to tighten the bolt up beyond finger tight. So over time (1 week) she was slowly leaking brake fluid. Only found out because the "brake" light on the cluster came up for low brake fluid. Once I fixed that, she stops on a dime now.
The brake hoses weren't technically bad, but they were original to the car. 18yrs and 330k miles will wear them out.
Oh, and yesterday I gave Dirty Girl new windshield wipers.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HzT5DgGaWYR2TsCN9
- PowerStop Brake pads
- PowerStop Drilled and slotted rotors
- OEM brake hoses
- OEM lower ball joints
- ACDelco LCAs
- Mevotech UCAs w/greasable ball joint
- ACDelco outer tie rods
- New endlinks
- New Eibach Poly bushings
- New brake fluid
After doing it all, Dirty Girl's stopping power was about the same as before, "meh" status basically. After about a week of driving, I found out that I did have a slight goof-up relating to the braking setup. Basically, on the passenger rear banjo bolt to the caliper, I failed to tighten the bolt up beyond finger tight. So over time (1 week) she was slowly leaking brake fluid. Only found out because the "brake" light on the cluster came up for low brake fluid. Once I fixed that, she stops on a dime now.
The brake hoses weren't technically bad, but they were original to the car. 18yrs and 330k miles will wear them out.
Oh, and yesterday I gave Dirty Girl new windshield wipers.
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Nam1911a1
Well-Known Member
Changed the oil and transmission oil with a mix of ATF and gear lube. The green monster got new wipers too lol.
241k miles and it still pulls hard.
241k miles and it still pulls hard.
Holton 345
Member
Today and recently…
* replaced brake switch pad
* pulled blower motor to remove about 20 huge chunks of pecan shell
* replaced main fuel relay
* replaced deck speakers
* replaced door speakers
* replaced two of the three sensors in the distributor
* new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor
* pulled the intake plenum and cleaned out 294,000 miles of crap from the EGR
* cleaned throttle body
* repaired IAC valve
* replaced throttle body and plenum gaskets
* replaced all interior light bulbs with new, OEM bulbs (not LED, but that will happen soon)
* new General tires
* tons of work to stock steelies and cheap, plastic hubcaps
* new Accord floor mats from dealership (very nice!)
* basic clean to interior (still need to scrub some spots and the nasty seatbelts)
* general inspection of all hoses and belts
* new air box filter
* new cabin air filter
Much more to do, but she runs really well now and gets about 30 MPG on the highway with a combined MPG average of about 23. I am remembering why I liked this car better than my 2010. It is a really nice driver. The 6th Generation seems to be the one with the best performance and fewest problems once the miles pile on. Glad I have kept this car for so many years. (2001 DXVP)
* replaced brake switch pad
* pulled blower motor to remove about 20 huge chunks of pecan shell
* replaced main fuel relay
* replaced deck speakers
* replaced door speakers
* replaced two of the three sensors in the distributor
* new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor
* pulled the intake plenum and cleaned out 294,000 miles of crap from the EGR
* cleaned throttle body
* repaired IAC valve
* replaced throttle body and plenum gaskets
* replaced all interior light bulbs with new, OEM bulbs (not LED, but that will happen soon)
* new General tires
* tons of work to stock steelies and cheap, plastic hubcaps
* new Accord floor mats from dealership (very nice!)
* basic clean to interior (still need to scrub some spots and the nasty seatbelts)
* general inspection of all hoses and belts
* new air box filter
* new cabin air filter
Much more to do, but she runs really well now and gets about 30 MPG on the highway with a combined MPG average of about 23. I am remembering why I liked this car better than my 2010. It is a really nice driver. The 6th Generation seems to be the one with the best performance and fewest problems once the miles pile on. Glad I have kept this car for so many years. (2001 DXVP)
Holton 345
Member
I have decided to go with a 1 DIN Alpine head unit and a Clarion EQ instead of the stock head or an aftermarket 2 DIN head. The issue was that the Clarion, while pretty decent, is only a 1/2 DIN unit. Recently I found a cheap dash kit for just such a setup. I was afraid that I would have to fabricate some abomination for the Clarion out of a sheet of ABS from the hobby shop. I could have made it work, but this is much easier and not much more expensive. Make no mistake: this is cheap, and it will need some hacking with a Dremel and some fabricated steel straps. But I can do that, and the face of the stereo will look pretty decent.
The Clarion has a face that extends about two millimeters beyond both the right and left edges, for whatever reason. If I Dremel these down the whole thing should fit flush in the facia and then I can figure out how to mount it to my Alpine head. The Alpine Power Pack mini amp will fit easily behind the very short "mechless" head and this small EQ box. The sub amp will probably live on the side of the sealed box in the trunk. Not sure yet. But at least this is real progress...
Here are some pics of the dash kit with the EQ, and some pics of how I had to Dremel the door speaker baskets to fit my preferred Polk Audio db652 speakers. (The Kicker deck speaker screw holes had to be ground with a Dremel grinding stone - a lot - and I forgot to take pics. If anyone wants to mount a pair of Kicker 43DSC69304 6x9s in the deck, message me and I will send photos so you can see what will have to be done.)
The Polks ended up being more-or-less drop-ins, but not really. I chose them because I could retain the stock baskets in the doors. These fit, but to make room for the electronics on the back you have to remove some of the basket. You also have to mount your screws exactly like I have shown. When they say, "They only fit one way, so you can't mess them up," they need to include something like, "They look like they can fit about a hundred different ways, but only one actually works - good luck, sucker!" HAHAHA!!!
Seriously, the db652 speakers come with a bizarrely shaped adapter ring that seems made to fit between the speaker and every car door made by mankind since Henry Ford started his cookie-cutter process way back when. In our 6GA cars it is NOT NEEDED, AT ALL. The speakers mount directly to the basket. The fit is great once you cut away the needed material. The door card fits over the speaker just fine. It is tight because the new speaker protrudes about a quarter inch further. The tweeter is flush with the surround, so it does not contact the plastic Honda grille at all. The sound is nice, but a little bit weaker than stock, these speakers have a sensitivity of like 92 or so, so they work well off a stock head, but they really want some extra power. I like them and can't wait to get my head and amp installed.
One last note: The long screws provided by Polk were about three millimeters too long and protruded through the basket and would have prevented its gasket from sealing. I Dremeled off about two threads of length and then rounded the new ends. They worked in this form perfectly. The short screws and the Honda screws are way too short.
EDIT: Hey, my photos made me realize that I put the top screw in the wrong hole on the right door speaker. (The driver door speaker is mounted correctly.) Oh, well - it threaded in securely, so she stays as she lays, I guess… BAHAHAHA!!!
The Clarion has a face that extends about two millimeters beyond both the right and left edges, for whatever reason. If I Dremel these down the whole thing should fit flush in the facia and then I can figure out how to mount it to my Alpine head. The Alpine Power Pack mini amp will fit easily behind the very short "mechless" head and this small EQ box. The sub amp will probably live on the side of the sealed box in the trunk. Not sure yet. But at least this is real progress...
Here are some pics of the dash kit with the EQ, and some pics of how I had to Dremel the door speaker baskets to fit my preferred Polk Audio db652 speakers. (The Kicker deck speaker screw holes had to be ground with a Dremel grinding stone - a lot - and I forgot to take pics. If anyone wants to mount a pair of Kicker 43DSC69304 6x9s in the deck, message me and I will send photos so you can see what will have to be done.)
The Polks ended up being more-or-less drop-ins, but not really. I chose them because I could retain the stock baskets in the doors. These fit, but to make room for the electronics on the back you have to remove some of the basket. You also have to mount your screws exactly like I have shown. When they say, "They only fit one way, so you can't mess them up," they need to include something like, "They look like they can fit about a hundred different ways, but only one actually works - good luck, sucker!" HAHAHA!!!
Seriously, the db652 speakers come with a bizarrely shaped adapter ring that seems made to fit between the speaker and every car door made by mankind since Henry Ford started his cookie-cutter process way back when. In our 6GA cars it is NOT NEEDED, AT ALL. The speakers mount directly to the basket. The fit is great once you cut away the needed material. The door card fits over the speaker just fine. It is tight because the new speaker protrudes about a quarter inch further. The tweeter is flush with the surround, so it does not contact the plastic Honda grille at all. The sound is nice, but a little bit weaker than stock, these speakers have a sensitivity of like 92 or so, so they work well off a stock head, but they really want some extra power. I like them and can't wait to get my head and amp installed.
One last note: The long screws provided by Polk were about three millimeters too long and protruded through the basket and would have prevented its gasket from sealing. I Dremeled off about two threads of length and then rounded the new ends. They worked in this form perfectly. The short screws and the Honda screws are way too short.
EDIT: Hey, my photos made me realize that I put the top screw in the wrong hole on the right door speaker. (The driver door speaker is mounted correctly.) Oh, well - it threaded in securely, so she stays as she lays, I guess… BAHAHAHA!!!
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Holton 345
Member
Here is the dash facia kit with the Clarion EQ. Some minor trimming and it should fit right nicely!
Here is the Clarion EQ box I want to use with the Alpine Bluetooth head unit I have.
The Alpine 1 DIN head looks pretty decent in this facia. It fits snugly without gapping around the edges. Of course, I failed to take a pic of that. Sorry.
I think I want to trim stuff so that this fits flush rather than recessed. That should be easy enough.
Here is the Clarion EQ box I want to use with the Alpine Bluetooth head unit I have.
The Alpine 1 DIN head looks pretty decent in this facia. It fits snugly without gapping around the edges. Of course, I failed to take a pic of that. Sorry.
I think I want to trim stuff so that this fits flush rather than recessed. That should be easy enough.
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Robert Troncoso
Well-Known Member
I had to put my exhaust back on two days ago. It got ripped off when I high centered over a steep driveway. Also had to stick rear bumper from cracking it aswell. Zipties ftw
RedRyder
Save the manuals
Needed to replace the rear wheel hub bearing assemblies yesterday but the car has been sitting so the battery was flat. Brought it back to life then changed out the passenger side, it was a (PB) blast. I bought some Timken assemblies off RockAuto, they looked identical to the ones that were on the car, which I presume to be factory but might not be since the spindle nut looked brand new.
Yes the driver side headlight is a foggy mess, needs removed and cleaned, then resealed.
20190330_165922 by C B, on Flickr
Yes the driver side headlight is a foggy mess, needs removed and cleaned, then resealed.
20190330_165922 by C B, on FlickrThe trunk key lock cylinder won't turn with my key. I was thinking about getting a new part and having it coded but when I took it out, I tried using lubricating oils etc but that didn't work. So I said WTH, lets have a locksmith look at it and he fixed it. Not exactly sure what he did but it looked like he reshaped the internals of the cylinder a little. Pretty darn awesome!
Oh and a couple of month ago, I replaced the brake light switch because it would randomly be impossible to move the tranny lever out of park. But now that is all fixed too!
Oh and a couple of month ago, I replaced the brake light switch because it would randomly be impossible to move the tranny lever out of park. But now that is all fixed too!
