I'm having the exact same problem, my steering wheel starts wobbling back and forth at around 50mph, i'm scared to drive on the freeway lol. It all started happening when I put new wheels/tires on (used, but new to me). I got an alignment, and most of it went away, but it still happens. Have you found out for sure if it's the axle ?
Wobble while under load - New axle
- Thread starter TACORICAN
- Start date
finch13
Well-Known Member
Not an axle problem.
You've probably got a loose wheel bearing/tie rod (inner or outer), ball joint, or a wheel weight fell off of your "new" tires.
How old are these "new" tires? There's a date code at the end of the DOT code. It goes something like "DOT blah blah a lot of numbers 2410", where the 2410 will be isolated. That means the tire was made the 24th week of 2010. You wouldn't believe how wobbly some cheaper tires will get after 2 or 3 years on the road, especially if they've been driven on under inflated.
Hm. I will check the date on the tires when there's some light out, but in the meantime, how much would it cost to replace wheel bearings, tie rods, and ball joints ? I kinda did want to redo my entire suspension ..
OT: Fantasy Factory quote in your sig ?
OT: Fantasy Factory quote in your sig ?
finch13
Well-Known Member
Hm. I will check the date on the tires when there's some light out, but in the meantime, how much would it cost to replace wheel bearings, tie rods, and ball joints ? I kinda did want to redo my entire suspension ..
OT: Fantasy Factory quote in your sig ?
Probably pretty expensive to do all of it at once. At a decent shop, you'd be looking at about a grand. DIY using "premium" parts, probably around $350-450.
And yes, you're one of the few that mentioned the quote in my sig. That was the coolest Fiero I've ever seen! GT too, nonetheless!
I don't mind DIY, most of the suspension stuff that I've seen is straight forward. I guess I'll be looking into some top notch stuff. I've already had the TLS rsb and moog endlinks in mind, so can't hurt to do everything else
And I only mention it cuz I love that show, I got my gf hooked on it too haha.
And I only mention it cuz I love that show, I got my gf hooked on it too haha.
finch13
Well-Known Member
Well, with the lower ball joints (and possibly uppers too) you would need to rent a ball joint press and the Honda adapters. Some upper ball joints can't be replaced, they have to be replaced as an assembly with the upper control arm. The ones that can be replaced can only be replaced once or twice because the UCA is made of stamped steel and pressing a new joint in stretches the hole. Replaceable ball joint control arms have a B and an alignment dot stamped into the upper control arm.
With wheel bearings, the front ones need to be pressed out using a hydraulic press. Sometimes the hub needs to be replaced too if it's too damaged from pressing it out of the bearing.
Outer tie rod ends are simple, might need to use a torch to get the jam nut to move. Inner tie rods require a special tool or the whole steering rack needs to come out to get a wrench on them.
With wheel bearings, the front ones need to be pressed out using a hydraulic press. Sometimes the hub needs to be replaced too if it's too damaged from pressing it out of the bearing.
Outer tie rod ends are simple, might need to use a torch to get the jam nut to move. Inner tie rods require a special tool or the whole steering rack needs to come out to get a wrench on them.
finch13
Well-Known Member
Best way to find out is to put the steelies back on and see what happens... unless you just transferred the new tires onto your steelies.
If all else fails, bring it back to the shop that mounted and balanced your tires.
If all else fails, bring it back to the shop that mounted and balanced your tires.
Sketch o5
Señor Greengo
uuhh, when new tires are put on, they should always be balanced...regardless of where theyre going on the car 
