RedRyder
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Seems like axle seals should be with the drive axle parts diagram/list. All I see in the trans assembly diagram/list are the oil seals. Looking at 2003 Acura CL-S 6MT parts btw.
Axles
- Thread starter RedRyder
- Start date
soccerchamp16
Well-Known Member
I'll look for the seals in a bit. I agree seems like they should be there
kn0x47
Senior Member
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/parts-catalog/acura/cl/2003/sport/6-speed-manual/chassis/driveshaft
24 should be the passenger side...
24 should be the passenger side...
RedRyder
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Ok I saw that one, but isn't that part of the half shaft assembly? Or when I pull out the passenger side axle would that seal be right there.
Don't see the driver side. This is retarded...such a simple thing.
Don't see the driver side. This is retarded...such a simple thing.
soccerchamp16
Well-Known Member
When you pull the axel out it will be right there. Unless it changed for the CL for some reason
soccerchamp16
Well-Known Member
24 agreed. Then just have them look up the seal on the drivers side.
H-town_Ryda_06
Well-Known Member
Hey RR, looks like my axles are pretty bad and will need replacing, so how did this swap go for you? Did the cls axles fit? Are they actually any better than the accord ones?
RedRyder
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I had heard the CL axles are thicker in diameter than the Accord, but I didn't really see a difference there (maybe need a micrometer?). Anyway the differences I noticed were (1) the CL axle CV boots have more "accordian" ribs so they seem more flexible, and (2) the CL axles have harmonic balancers while the Accord's do not. For some reason the CL axles were cheaper than the Accord's online. Cheapest I found them was at Bernardi Acura. However they only had one side in stock, so I bought the other side from Tim at OEMAcuraparts and he price matched.
CL axles were direct fit. Wasn't a horrible job, just takes a lot of time and there can be snags (axle nuts, clearance for removing/installing axles, popping the axles out of the trans, etc), but they weren't anything I couldn't manage. I just followed Eric the car guy's DIY video. Make sure you have the tools first, having a 4ft long steel pipe was key for me in getting the axle nuts off. You also want to have something decent to pop the axle out. Check out the video and you'll see what I mean.
I would recommend replacing the axle seals if you can, I bought the wrong ones so I didn't. Here is the list of everything I replaced:
Axle nuts
Castle nuts
Clip pins (for castle nuts)
Axles
I did not drain the tranny fluid, but you have a different trans so you may want to. Also I used a ball joint separator for the LBJ's (rented from A-zone), but they lost a lot of grease and you can't add more. I replaced the LBJ's not too long after so it didn't matter. But that's kind of a watch out if you don't plan to replace them.
CL axles were direct fit. Wasn't a horrible job, just takes a lot of time and there can be snags (axle nuts, clearance for removing/installing axles, popping the axles out of the trans, etc), but they weren't anything I couldn't manage. I just followed Eric the car guy's DIY video. Make sure you have the tools first, having a 4ft long steel pipe was key for me in getting the axle nuts off. You also want to have something decent to pop the axle out. Check out the video and you'll see what I mean.
I would recommend replacing the axle seals if you can, I bought the wrong ones so I didn't. Here is the list of everything I replaced:
Axle nuts
Castle nuts
Clip pins (for castle nuts)
Axles
I did not drain the tranny fluid, but you have a different trans so you may want to. Also I used a ball joint separator for the LBJ's (rented from A-zone), but they lost a lot of grease and you can't add more. I replaced the LBJ's not too long after so it didn't matter. But that's kind of a watch out if you don't plan to replace them.
RedRyder
Save the manuals
If you're planning to pull the trigger, Bernardi is offering free shipping 11/27 - 12/01.
seals should be easy,
pull axle
remove seal with a prybar
stick new one in hand tight
tap in with PLASTIC FACE HAMMER
-rubber will bounce, any metal will dent, brass or steel, may use scrap wood 2x4 ~12" long will be nice-
reinstall axle
crack beer
5min + axle job.
I am probably strange, having hard & soft plastic hammers, aluminum hammers, brass hammers, and 6 steel hammers ranging from 8oz to 20lb WITHOUT nail claws
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