Engine Replacement, ULEV question

Sketch o5

Señor Greengo
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well, first, theres no difference between the f motors in lx's or ex's, and to be honest, i dont even know why some come with a1's and some came with a4's haha. both lx's ive had had a1's. the head should swap over fine, and as youve roughly found out, yes, a "manual" motor will work with the autos, and visa versa.

idk about this porous block thing with f23's, first time ive heard of it. between the a1 and a4, theres really nothing different aside from the exhaust header. the blocks and heads themselves are the same, as far as i know.
 

x5carl3tMurd3rx

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^you have any leftovers? i'm hungry
nope sorry it was too god to save any leftovers.
My original motor has 130,000 miles on it and it appeared to have blown a headgasket, so I repaired it accordingly. After removing the head, it was checked and ended up being warped. The head was taken to a machine shop where they milled off 10/1000th's (yea it was kinda bad) and cleaned and polished the valves and replaced the gaskets. For all the work, I paid a grand total of $325, which is why I'm so inclined to keep the reworked head.

Now after replacing the headgakset (among other things) and putting the motor back together, the car is now a milkshake machine on wheels. There is some place where a mass amount of coolant is mixing with the oil and it's somewhere in the block. There are no external leaks, the head was vaccum tested, the headgasket is perfect, there is no fluid on the spark plugs and no white smoke coming out of the exhaust (symptoms of headgasket failure) and a full radiator damn near runs out of coolant in about twenty minutes of driving. The coolant system was pressure tested and there was a slight leak, but I can almost guarantee it's something internal to the motor. It's been suggested that the ULEV F23's suffer from porous block which is a manufacturing defect from honda. Check it out, it's hard to find any info about it, the new Civic's suffer from the same problem. Or my block could just be completely jacked.

So I called around some junk yards and found 2 places selling F23's from EX's for $500, one with 86,000 and the other with 87,000 miles, both are short blocks. My buddy's shop found one for $850 with 80,000, but that's from a dealer so I'm kinda hesitant about the price.

And x5carl3tMurd3rx I was just pissed off that you called my question stupid. I thought it was a pretty valid concern.

And I only asked the tranny question because the junkyards specify whether their motors come from Autos or Manuals and it kinda threw me off, but yea I guess that is a gimmie isn't it? :dumb:
Damn that sucks man. as for the engine I'd just go with the $500 dollar one 7k miles less on an engine doesn't seem like it would be worth an extra $350 to me, you'd really only be paying for the peace of mind that it came from a dealership and not some random junk yard.
Sorry I came off as such a dick, when I said don't ask stupid questions I was only referring to the second question since it had been covered before. guess I should have clarified that more. My B:hide:

Btw I found an upside to your situation, if your short on cash you can always sell milkshakes :lawl: good luck with fixing your car.
 

ryan s

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well, first, theres no difference between the f motors in lx's or ex's, and to be honest, i dont even know why some come with a1's and some came with a4's haha. both lx's ive had had a1's. the head should swap over fine, and as youve roughly found out, yes, a "manual" motor will work with the autos, and visa versa.

idk about this porous block thing with f23's, first time ive heard of it. between the a1 and a4, theres really nothing different aside from the exhaust header. the blocks and heads themselves are the same, as far as i know.
ya, the a1/a4 engines are the same. weird that you got an a1...errr you're not actually IN the state of new york and i think they only sold the a4's in more "emissions concerned" markets (socal, NY, etc).

ive never heard of an f23 being "porous" either. just people putting breather holes in them from too much powa :lawl:
 

studweiser83

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well, first, theres no difference between the f motors in lx's or ex's, and to be honest, i dont even know why some come with a1's and some came with a4's haha. both lx's ive had had a1's. the head should swap over fine, and as youve roughly found out, yes, a "manual" motor will work with the autos, and visa versa.

idk about this porous block thing with f23's, first time ive heard of it. between the a1 and a4, theres really nothing different aside from the exhaust header. the blocks and heads themselves are the same, as far as i know.

Alright, well that answered my question. Thanks for the info, and thanks to everyone else too. Now I'm curious about the mechanics behind ULEV. What makes it different from the standard engine? And don't worry, that's a rhetorical question, I'm gonna go ask google for the answer to that one.

The whole thing with porous engines is that when they are casted in the factory there are tiny holes in the aluminum by some defect through the manufacturing process. These tiny holes allow liquids to seep out of the aluminum and create symptoms similar to a cracked block. Newer model Civics have a similar problem.
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=141747
and here's one about Volvo's
http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/960-90Info1.html
At least my 07 car doesn't need a new motor at 36k miles. I think I'd be a little less.....understanding.

Hey x5carl3tMurd3rx no hard feelings, I ask stupid questions so I should expect stupid answers, right? I saw you're in Virginia, you ever go to Ocean City during the summer? Cruise weekend, Yea buddy.

And I could easily sell milkshakes at car shows. I changed my oil 4 times within about a week with very low miles, if any, in between changes and what's supposed to be oil looks more like suntan lotion coming out of my oil pan. I'll post a picture of one nasty a** valve cover if anyone really cares. And the weird thing is that the car still purrs, aside from some bearings in the crank case starting to click (insert new motor here).
 
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