Losing oil????

FunnyVictor86

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fyi specified factory oil weight is for new cars ... as they get older you need to get a thicker weight ... i usually use 5w30 or 10w30 depending on the season
 

HondaLuver83

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You guys need to be able to understand the viscosity numbers first. The "5" is the weight when its cold, the "30" is the weight when its hot. So going from 5w30 to 10w30 isnt going to be any different when the car is hot. If you want a thicker oil, go to 10w40.
 

blacknight

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The stp oil treatment is correct.

But this is the rinslone you need
Rinslone

775322.jpg
 

finch13

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You guys need to be able to understand the viscosity numbers first. The "5" is the weight when its cold, the "30" is the weight when its hot. So going from 5w30 to 10w30 isnt going to be any different when the car is hot. If you want a thicker oil, go to 10w40.

Bam! This is correct!
 

finch13

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Well, I'm just saying, those bottles of snake oil should have a bold disclaimer on them saying "THIS IS JUST A BAND-AID, NOT AN ACTUAL FIX."
 

blacknight

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Oh, and you've never used any type of fuel, oil, coolant, or tranny additives to help preserve your vehicle, if you didn't have money to replace the parts.....
 
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HondaLuver83

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Oh, and you've never used any type of fuel, oil, coolant, or tranny additives to help preserve your vehicle, if you didn't have money to replace the parts.....

LOL, I think he's just joking around, because those products claim that its a permanent fix

I mean yeah, if you dont have money or whatever you can do that.

But IMO, I'd just man up and take the engine out, hone the block and replace the rings, probably grind the valves/seats, replace valve seals($1 a peice) cold tank the head and adjust valve lash. Call it a new engine and be done with it for a long time.
 
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blacknight

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LOL, I think he's just joking around, because those products claim that its a permanent fix

I mean yeah, if you dont have money or whatever you can do that..

WOW
LOL
My bad

I'm just too sensitive
:lawl::ohyou:


But IMO, I'd just man up and take the engine out, hone the block and replace the rings, probably grind the valves/seats, replace valve seals($1 a peice) cold tank the head and adjust valve lash. Call it a new engine and be done with it for a long time.



But to doo all that, it seems to be much easier (and cheaper as far as labor) to just swap motors
 
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