I see the end of my 6ga...

[001Stunna]

Planning to get married so all the money had to go there instead of my baby; however, I did get the set of rims I wanted...Lols...should be coming in soon...

Congrats on both occasions!!

Fix the o2 sensor and then disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer. The P1656 code should go away, I remember my sister having one of those codes pop up on her Accord after doing an oil change. Disconnected the battery and nothing has appeared 1000 miles later.

Your suggestion would make her FAIL even worse. The current aircare/etest in here changed to an OBD2 plug in test. Vehicles 98-00 are allowed a max of 2 pending tests. 01+ are allowed only one. Disconnecting the battery would send all her tests back to pending and waiting to be run/passed.



Back on point though...you CAN still do an old style etest at the discretion of the etest shop. The under the table price was just $200-250 last year when I had to try it out...so if you really blew $500 god damn that sucks especially if the shop did not even guarantee a pass.

You should've fixed your o2 code(s) if you knew about them before even trying for emissions to start with. Simply as MOT I believe does/can keep track of all your entries. & same as before some shops would/will not even do the under-the-table test if you've failed legally more than twice.

On another hand, fix your o2 sensor code. It's most likely causing 2 or 3 readiness tests to be pending or fail. The tranny code is not emission related and in reality should not be a reason to make you fail. Does it illuminate your CEL or no when thats the only code without the o2 code?
You work close to Tam I believe, and he should have my live data scanner with him. Get your o2 fixed and jump over to his place and check what the readiness status shows for the different tests/parameters...or get out of hiding and show up on a thursday night maybe lol.

Most shops will either scan the vin from your window, or write it in from your registration. I'm assuming/hoping the vin# is still on your windshield lower driver-side area.

If all won't work, register it as a hot rod lol

...however take note this may screw you over in terms of insurance...or it may not. It depends how your insurance companies takes the news. DO NOT however withhold it from them if you go such route as you will HAVE a misinterpretation under your file and 99.9% be dropped and have a cancellation under your file and rated back to a 1 star driver.

You will need some documentation from Rich if you do not have it already about the swap/labor etc.

If people running boost can pass with all tests showing N/A and only one test PASS...you can pass with a stock engine (just from a different car)

 

[Bax]

 

[RedRyder]

Judy, come to think of it…the 1656 has only shown up for me when there was something else triggering the CEL. Like right now I have a 1456 (fuel evap leak), and consequently, a 1656. But the 1656 has never triggered a CEL on its own. The module tricks the ECU about the auto/manual signals, but still for whatever reason when something else is wrong with the car and flashes the CEL, the 1656 shows up in the background. But like I said, it shouldn’t be triggering a CEL on its own.

So maybe if you fix the o2 sensor…you MIGHT be problem free and the CEL may disappear.

Just out of curiosity, how long does the period of time have to be between disconnecting a battery and getting this dumb test performed? Meaning if you disconnect your battery for whatever reason, how long do you have to wait before you can get the car tested?

 

[Hondastylez]

Judy, come to think of it…the 1656 has only shown up for me when there was something else triggering the CEL. Like right now I have a 1456 (fuel evap leak), and consequently, a 1656. But the 1656 has never triggered a CEL on its own. The module tricks the ECU about the auto/manual signals, but still for whatever reason when something else is wrong with the car and flashes the CEL, the 1656 shows up in the background. But like I said, it shouldn’t be triggering a CEL on its own.

So maybe if you fix the o2 sensor…you MIGHT be problem free and the CEL may disappear.

Just out of curiosity, how long does the period of time have to be between disconnecting a battery and getting this dumb test performed? Meaning if you disconnect your battery for whatever reason, how long do you have to wait before you can get the car tested?

1656 Will not give you a check engine light but if you do a scan on your vehicle it will show the code on the scanner.

I don't remember correctly but this is something related to the transmission. I think. It's been a while since Richie told me about it.

 

[RedRyder]

^Ah alright, that makes sense. Yeah it's auto tranny.

 

[001Stunna]

Judy, come to think of it…the 1656 has only shown up for me when there was something else triggering the CEL. Like right now I have a 1456 (fuel evap leak), and consequently, a 1656. But the 1656 has never triggered a CEL on its own. The module tricks the ECU about the auto/manual signals, but still for whatever reason when something else is wrong with the car and flashes the CEL, the 1656 shows up in the background. But like I said, it shouldn’t be triggering a CEL on its own.

So maybe if you fix the o2 sensor…you MIGHT be problem free and the CEL may disappear.

Just out of curiosity, how long does the period of time have to be between disconnecting a battery and getting this dumb test performed? Meaning if you disconnect your battery for whatever reason, how long do you have to wait before you can get the car tested?

How long it takes to get the test done depends on how long it takes for the ecu parameters to pass. It can be in a day or a month depending how much/intervals the car is driven in.

Fixing the o2 code her car should pass with no major issues providing there's no other issues with any readiness tests

 

[Simkid5614]

The safe options on Saturns to get all readiness monitors to Trigger was this.

it may help to get yours up and going.
Remember its for a saturn.
OBD-II Driving Cycle
If you have a 96 or newer vehicle you have the OBD-II diagnostic system. This system is constantly monitoring the sensors and solenoids on the engine. If you have replaced the battery, disconnected the battery or cleared the codes after making a repair you will need to do what is called a "Driving Cycle". This will perform a diagnostic on all the systems the computer monitors. This cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

1. Cold Start
In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50ºC (122ºF) and within 6ºC (11ºF) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

2. Idle
The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on maximum and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

3. Accelerate
Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

4. Hold Steady Speed
Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5. Decelerate
Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

6. Accelerate
Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

7. Hold Steady Speed
Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

8. Decelerate
This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1289585&postcount=7

 

[WHEEELMAN]

Here's my 2 cents on the 1656 error code since my car throws this one myself:

It is most likely generating 1656 for the TCS system.
Accord TCS system is controlled by Multiplexor.
Acura TCS system is controlled on board by the ECU itself.

Since both TCS are controlled by different "systems"; your Acura ECU will always show error code 1656. I know of no way, to electronically remove that code.

 

[001Stunna]

Here's my 2 cents on the 1656 error code since my car throws this one myself:

It is most likely generating 1656 for the TCS system.
Accord TCS system is controlled by Multiplexor.
Acura TCS system is controlled on board by the ECU itself.

Since both TCS are controlled by different "systems"; your Acura ECU will always show error code 1656. I know of no way, to electronically remove that code.

That code alone does not illuminate your cel though correct? In addition it should not have any effect on the ecus readines tests and it clearly has no relation to emissions at all.

Meaning if the o2 issue is fixed and all is fine with the rest of the tests and they all show a pass...emission through the new standard in here should not be an issue.

and even if not the car can most likely worse case scenario be registered through the "hot rod" program.

 

[juiCyyaccOrd]

Wow wow, sorry been so busy at work haven't had a chance to log into here to read responses.

Awesome, thanks for the useful information. I didn't pay $500, they said they couldn't do it. Apparently they need my old ECU from my J30 which is with Rich now. I don't know if it'll make a difference if I have that.

I did fix the O2 sensor, it's a brand new O2 sensor and the code still came on, checked the wiring and everything else too, and it has enough voltage running through. So, I think there's a glitch and still shooting out the code.
Stupid government man, this is so effin pointless. If I did a smoke test which HAS TO DO WITH EMISSIONS, it will pass. But I'm failing because of a friggen COMPUTER GLITCH which has NOTHING to do with the friggen DRIVE CLEAN! UGH! Sorry, RANT!!!!

I got so stressed regarding this because I took it to Toronto like 3 times illegally cause my temporary sticker was expired. I've been on this for like almost a month trying to take care of it. So, I just put it back into storage and will deal with it next year. My car is a wreck now anyway, body is so poor now and rusting, so I'm just gonna put it in the shop and redo the whole body and repaint everything and will bring her out next year when she is brand new again (HOPEFULLY, the government will realize they're friggen stupid and change the friggen law back, stupid pieces of monkey sh*t!!!!) lol

Thanks everyone for your help!!!