J32 6 speed MT swap

crazyspade101

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X3. Doesn't get better than that. Keeping those seats?

Not sure what I'm doing with the interior yet. I might try to do a full interior swap, I have black currently in my car. I'd like to keep it black but finding a black cl-s dash would be difficult along with seats i believe. If anyone is looking to trade let me know.

Here is a pic of my accord, just got the hood tires and battery tray out.



I'm probably going to have to put the wheels and battery back in to get it over to a different garage where I'll have more tools and help available. Target swap time, 1.5 weeks, I work full time so I only have nights and weekends.

Is there extra that I will need for the swap that isn't already on the CL? From all the posts I have read if i have a whole car I should be set.

Does anyone know where I can get pinout diagrams of the CL and Accord ecus? I'm going to use the cl ecu. trying to figure out what else would have to get changed.

I am going to be selling the Greddy Evo2 Exhaust on the CL, it should fit 6th gen accord, 2nd gen TL's. Also, selling my j30 with the auto tranny and ecu. Not sure about anything else yet. Drop me a PM if you are interested.
 

RedRyder

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Black CL-S interiors are everywhere, it's the tan that is pretty rare. I know, I've been looking for a couple years haha. There are a couple odds and ends you'll need, but you're mostly set. You'll want to put a new water pump/timing belt/etc on the 3.2, and I'd install a new clutch kit. And resurface that flywheel, etc. Read through some of the swap threads here and on V6P.
 

sonni_kuba

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Is there extra that I will need for the swap that isn't already on the CL? From all the posts I have read if i have a whole car I should be set.

Check out the summary from my swap here ...

http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47964

1) Bought a 2003 Acura TypeS (197K km) $3300 CAD to extract:
- ECU
- Engine harness
- Transmission mounts
- Starter
- Clutch Assembly
- Hydraulic system
- Gear shifter
- Clutch pedal and Brake pedal
- Flywheel
- 6 speed Transmission (LSD)

2) Bought separately:
- J32A2 Engine assembly (60K km) ($735 CAD)
- Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
- J37 IM, J35 IM cover, P2R J37/J32 Adapter
- 04-06 RSX Type S shift knob
- 98-02 Accord shift boot

Advantages of using all 03 CL TypeS parts: relatively easy rewiring, no CELs, no need for 3rd party modules
Disadvantages of using all 03 CL TypeS parts: upfront cost of buying a whole donor car, rarity of low mileage J32A2s

Advantages of using J37IM: no need to lower subframe/compromise ground clearance, better flow, better high end hp/tq
Disadvantages of using J37IM: need for adapters, loss of IMRC

End Result - 1000 km later, still no CELs
 

crazyspade101

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Check out the summary from my swap here ...

http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47964

1) Bought a 2003 Acura TypeS (197K km) $3300 CAD to extract:
- ECU
- Engine harness
- Transmission mounts
- Starter
- Clutch Assembly
- Hydraulic system
- Gear shifter
- Clutch pedal and Brake pedal
- Flywheel
- 6 speed Transmission (LSD)

2) Bought separately:
- J32A2 Engine assembly (60K km) ($735 CAD)
- Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
- J37 IM, J35 IM cover, P2R J37/J32 Adapter
- 04-06 RSX Type S shift knob
- 98-02 Accord shift boot

Advantages of using all 03 CL TypeS parts: relatively easy rewiring, no CELs, no need for 3rd party modules
Disadvantages of using all 03 CL TypeS parts: upfront cost of buying a whole donor car, rarity of low mileage J32A2s

Advantages of using J37IM: no need to lower subframe/compromise ground clearance, better flow, better high end hp/tq
Disadvantages of using J37IM: need for adapters, loss of IMRC

End Result - 1000 km later, still no CELs

Well looks like I'm pretty much set then. My current time frame wont allow me to do everything that I want to my car. I need it back ASAP, but I plan on doing a lower end from a 3.5 or 3.7 in the future.

On a side note did you have to repin your ecu wiring for your dash or did you switch out clusters too?

I moved my car to a different garage today, ran over the passenger side mudguard because I didn't make sure those cheap plastic pins were in. It looks alright, not like anyone will ever really see it. I pulled the radiator and battery today, only had about 45 minutes to work on it. Tomorrow the engines coming out. I'm going to flat black the bay while it's gone, need lots of tape to cover up everything.

Very excited about all of this.
 

sonni_kuba

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... but I plan on doing a lower end from a 3.5 or 3.7 in the future.

On a side note did you have to repin your ecu wiring for your dash or did you switch out clusters too?

.

Stroking it to 3.6L and tuning it with AEM EMS would be significant and is on my 2016 to do list, right after I pass 2016 emissions (won't be easy with AEM EMS).

We did repin the CL-S ecu to the Accord cluster. I would have loved to keep the CL-S cluster, but it's not a perfect fit. If you were thinking of keeping the CL-S interior then it would be a different story.
 

sonni_kuba

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Have you thought about how you're going to fit the taller j32a2 into the accord engine bay and get the hood to close?

You'll either need to

A) Lower the subframe

B) Use a J37 intake manifold

C) Use hood spacers

If you're going with option A), I've got a set of six 5/8" subframe spacers already machined, that I would love to unload ;)
 

crazyspade101

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If you're going with option A), I've got a set of six 5/8" subframe spacers already machined, that I would love to unload ;)

I am planning on dropping the subframe with spacers. But I don't think I'll need to buy any. My girlfriends father, who is helping me and was a mechanic, lots of tools... but he currently works at a plumbing warehouse and is going to cut me spacers out of schedule 80 or schedule 160 pipe.

Dude, bad *** find! Good luck on the swap and take lots of pics! :D

I wish I have been taking more pictures than I am. Just chuggin away on this, trying to get it done by next wednesday. Just dropped the engine out of my accord.

Before the drop, nothing attached to the engine. Poor picture angle..


Engine on the floor



So to get to this point I followed the engine removal part from the FSM v6 supplement. It was pretty straight forward. Getting the engine onto the floor was hard, the hoist wasn't designed for FWD cars to drop with the tranny I don't think, had the engine sitting on the legs of the hoist. Had to put the lift in from the side to drop the engine, then lift the car up with a sling on the rear subframe and drug it backwards. Took up about 2 hours figuring that out. I hope the CL will go faster.

Will try to get more pictures from here on out.
 
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