Cheap lil N/A setup...

turboputz

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Yeah what he said.....can it? or I we have to look for another block?

The stock block is fine unless you have a hole in yours. You guys really need to get your basic engine terminology straight because you don't even really know what it is you're asking!

But if you actually look at the beginning of the thread (try it:coffee:) the author is suggesting a complete shortblock build. Shortblock basically means the engine minus the head.:thumbsup: I believe the thinking behind that would be, "If I'm in there to change the pistons let me build this thing to last with all new parts."

When you look at the labor side of the equation there is nothing cheap about it. This is why I mentioned my build plan that only deals with the head.


Now let me pose a question to you. Why might you need to buy another engine? Clue: alternate transpo.
 

Kid2000EX

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The stock block is fine unless you have a hole in yours. You guys really need to get your basic engine terminology straight because you don't even really know what it is you're asking!

But if you actually look at the beginning of the thread (try it:coffee:) the author is suggesting a complete shortblock build. Shortblock basically means the engine minus the head.:thumbsup: I believe the thinking behind that would be, "If I'm in there to change the pistons let me build this thing to last with all new parts."

When you look at the labor side of the equation there is nothing cheap about it. This is why I mentioned my build plan that only deals with the head.


Now let me pose a question to you. Why might you need to buy another engine? Clue: alternate transpo.

Im getting another engine so that I can drive mine while the motor's bein built. As far as engine management goes, after talkin to Bryan I may go OBD1 and use Hondata!
 

BlkCurrantKord

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You guys really need to get your basic engine terminology straight because you don't even really know what it is you're asking!


I'm gonna start another thread in the tech or engine mods section so you guys can ask questions about engine terms so everyone has knowledge of what they are and what they mean. I'll sticky it so its always at the top of the forum. I encourage you guys to just ask whatever it is you dont know or want to know more about.
 

JMillerUA6

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The pistons are not in the head and we're talking about pistons :coffee:

Thanks Putz........I realize that, did I ever say anything about the pistons being in the head? :slap:

My point being that I'm trying to go as cost effective as possible, and If I can get close to the same results by just building the HEAD, thats what I'm going to do.
 

turboputz

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Thanks Putz........I realize that, did I ever say anything about the pistons being in the head?
.:rly:


I was referring to the cam alone, and it was a guestimate on an all otherwise stock setup.

FYI - you dont need to bore the block. The F23 and K20 have the same bore (86mm) all it'd need is a good cleaning hone job.


So then your saying the only thing that I need to have work done to is the head?? If thats the case it would save me A LOT of time and money.

:chucklesfawk:

Since you use the word need that would naturally, by the context, be a reflection of the earlier statement that used the corresponding word.
Don't be mad at me because you haven't mastered the english language yet.:nutkick:
 

hiddengamer7

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hey guys, just keep the chatter about engines, not about english skills or getting correct terms, he made a mistake, who cares.

what i am curious about is, how much of this stuff i could install myself? i have some experience with engine work, but i dont have a very good toolbox if you know what i mean
 

turboputz

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My point being that I'm trying to go as cost effective as possible said:
You say that almost as if its some brilliant idea that you just stumbled upon with no outside influences. :icon_gay:

Here's my somewhat cheap, at least when compared to a full turbo kit, or opening up the bottom end, lil NA set-up.

Bisimoto/WEB Stage 2 VTEC camshaft- purchased
Bisimoto Cam Gear- purchased
Built head by JG Engine with flat-faced stainless valves, valve springs, Ti retainers, Sunnen VGS multi-angle valve job, and milled .035.
ARP H23 Headstuds

I have decided not to P&P anything and just get the best valve job possible to save money for the tuning and head install, and to keep the powerband low for maximum streetability and auto-x. Will be dyno tuned using AEM Fuel and Ignition OBDII Controller or Apexi Neo. Shooting for 170 whp.

Can anybody tell me what the compression would be by getting the flat-faced valves and milling the head .035? I tried using the calculator from one of the other threads, but I got 12.5, which is too high I think. Maybe around 10.0:1?

No, I'm not the first one to think of this in the history of Honda Accords. But stealing a concept, and its rationalizatoin, from within the same thread and not giving any credit is bull****. I don't play. Its okay though, you'll never follow through anyways, while I already have 90% of the parts to make this happen, and the stones.
 

JMillerUA6

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hey guys, just keep the chatter about engines, not about english skills or getting correct terms, he made a mistake, who cares.

what i am curious about is, how much of this stuff i could install myself? i have some experience with engine work, but i dont have a very good toolbox if you know what i mean


I know that I have not had much experience with "internals", I do, however have a pretty good general knowledge. A lot of this stuff with the exception of machining, I am planning on doing myself. Theres no better way to learn, than to just do it. But I am going to make sure that I have all the right tools and refrence material to do it right.
 

BlkCurrantKord

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This is supposed to be for people looking for cheap upgrade, not to bicker about who knows what. Take it to PM's if you wanna continue.
 
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