Please help me with my h22 wiring before I overheat!

[ib042129]

Hi.
I finally had my power steering and my exhaust done, so the car became drivable. I had a bad connection on one of the injectors, but fixed that.
The car still throws a code and maybe runs a little rich.

But that's not my main issue.
THe engine is clearly too hot, and the cooling fans don't start, and
I my temp guage is not working!

So something is wrong with the wiring!
Haynes manual is no help on this.

Maybe one fo you can help me.

There are three sensors that I might have confused or something.

Two are located on the head right under the dizzy, and next to the coolant pipe that goes to the top of the radiator.
One of them is a sigle pin connection and has a yellow/grn wire.
(According to S-spec, I don't need to wire it. )
The other, is a two wire connectior that has red/wht, blk/grn wires.
(That should de the temp sensor.)

Another sensor is next to the coolant pipe that goes to the bottom of the radiator. It's a two pin green and black connector. And I can't find it in the wiring diagram. It simply wires identically to where it went in the f23.

Did I not wire something correctly? Please help me out.

Oh, here are the photos of what I'm talking about.

 

[BlkCurrantKord]

A few things...

Go to www.everything-honda.com

Log in or join if you're not a member

Search for "Drift"'s H22 wiring diagram write up or cjek's threads.

If that doesn't help you, pm Drift

 

[ib042129]

A few things...

Go to www.everything-honda.com

Log in or join if you're not a member

Search for "Drift"'s H22 wiring diagram write up or cjek's threads.

If that doesn't help you, pm Drift

Yeah. I think I will end up asking Drift.


But I mannaged to read the CEL code and it's not very fun:
2long-2shore=22


22*
Accord Civic CRV CRX Del Sol Odyssey Prelude
94-98 92-98 n/a n/a 93-97 98 93-98` VTEC Oil Pressure Switch
defective circuit or unplugged / defective oil pressure switch
* not a valid code if car does not have a VTEC engine


I'm guessing something id wrong with the vtec solenoid.
It's either:
1)My wiring is bad (no vtec before)
2)I connected it to the wrong ecu pin.
3)The solenoid is bad.

So how would I check if the vtec solenoid is good or bad?
Can I jsut give it +12v when the engine idles and see if it switches?
I know how to check the connections, but it would be nice to make
sure before I spend a lot of money to get new parts.

Edit: I just realized. It's talking about vtec pressure switch, not solenoid. And I don't think
my h22 has that. At least I could not find the plug for it. (Something about jdm versions of the
enigne not having it.) Does not mean that I have to disable it in the ecu, or is there another way around it?

 

[BlkCurrantKord]

Do you have a Haynes, Chilton's, or Helms?

Odds are the vtec solenoid isnt bad. I'd start at rechecking your wiring.

 

[S-spec]

Just disable the pressure switch in your ECU (I am assuming you are chipped?) and ground the pressure switch wire. Thats how its done factory in JDM land.

As for your temp gauge not working, same thing is up with my brother's car with an H23, haven't gotten around to diagnosing though, not over heating and fans are working...

If your FANS aren't working, you probably confused a connector somewhere along the lines in back of the thermostat. There is a plug on the thermostat, thats the fan switch. Make sure you have the right plug on it.

 

[ib042129]

Just disable the pressure switch in your ECU (I am assuming you are chipped?) and ground the pressure switch wire. Thats how its done factory in JDM land.

As for your temp gauge not working, same thing is up with my brother's car with an H23, haven't gotten around to diagnosing though, not over heating and fans are working...

If your FANS aren't working, you probably confused a connector somewhere along the lines in back of the thermostat. There is a plug on the thermostat, thats the fan switch. Make sure you have the right plug on it.

To disable it in the ECU, that means chipping it again. I assume.

What wire do yuo suggest to ground, the one going to ECU?

 

[nyknick1015]

well wen i had that problem with the temp gauge, that single pin sensor is for the temp gauge sensor... with out that, u wont read on the cluster... i dunno, thats how it is on the F motor... and if ur reading cold on that sensor the ECU thinks its running cold so u wont run on the necessary fuel ratio and the radiator fan wont kick in because the car thinks its still running cold cuz of that sensor... I had that problem on my cb7 b4...

My advice... search around for the H22 temp sesnor wire and splice it to that or find the original wire and where it goes... because thats right on the thermostat housing... that should solve ur problem....

ive had that problem and ive spend hundreds of dollars trying to figure it out the first time when it was just a 2cent wire...

 

[ib042129]

Ok.
Figured out how to fix code 22.
Wire the Vtec Pressure connector on the ECU to the the vtec solenoid connnector. (Thanks to xenocron for that.)

Still trying to figure out how to wire that temp sensor.
I think it goes to the ECT conneciton on the ecu.
But there is already a wire going there. I think I'll try splicing that in there
maybe.

Meanwhile!
ONE OF MY INJECTORS STOPPED WORKING!
The plug is connected. I'll have to check the wiring tomorrow when
it's light though.
Is there a way to check if the injector is good or not?
Other than to check the wiring and if the wiring is good, then injector is bad?

 

[ib042129]

I had problems with the injectors on my H22 so I got new ones and
a new chip to go with them from Xenocron, but I still have problems.

1)The new chip throws a code right away before even starting, and I can’t
read it for some reason. (The shorting wires counting blinks does not work)
2)The engine is still a little rough, the idle is high and a little unstable, but not
as much as when one of the injectors was not working.
3)The exhaust pipe from cylinder 3 is much colder than all others.
4)The rest of the pipes get really hot FAST!
5)The engine is running really rich.

I have ordered a fuel pressure regulator a while ago. It is still to arrive.
I will also replace distributor cap and rotor and spark plug wires.
This might fix the running too rich problem, but I’m not sure
Why cylinder 3 is so different.

I pulled the spark plug from it, and it was dirty, so I'm getting fuel.
The injector is brand new.
The wiring for the injectors seems to be ok. Goes to the right socket in the ECU. (Actually should the other wire go directly to ground? Zero resistance with the chassis of the car?)

I'm really confused at how to fix it.

 

[S-spec]

I had problems with the injectors on my H22 so I got new ones and
a new chip to go with them from Xenocron, but I still have problems.

1)The new chip throws a code right away before even starting, and I can’t
read it for some reason. (The shorting wires counting blinks does not work)
2)The engine is still a little rough, the idle is high and a little unstable, but not
as much as when one of the injectors was not working.
3)The exhaust pipe from cylinder 3 is much colder than all others.
4)The rest of the pipes get really hot FAST!
5)The engine is running really rich.

I have ordered a fuel pressure regulator a while ago. It is still to arrive.
I will also replace distributor cap and rotor and spark plug wires.
This might fix the running too rich problem, but I’m not sure
Why cylinder 3 is so different.

I pulled the spark plug from it, and it was dirty, so I'm getting fuel.
The injector is brand new.
The wiring for the injectors seems to be ok. Goes to the right socket in the ECU. (Actually should the other wire go directly to ground? Zero resistance with the chassis of the car?)

I'm really confused at how to fix it.

Chances are he sent you a basemap using eCtune. It is supposed to blink 2 or 3 times, depending on the version, once the key is turned to IGN on. Your running rich problem is because its a basemap. Xenocron probably was conservative with the fuel map to ensure you don't run lean.

As for one cylinder running cooler, are you checking the temp of each runner with an infra-red temp sensor? Check your plugs, wires, etc. Also do a compression test. If you are running lower compression on that cylinder, you might have to pull some fuel from that cylinder. (You can do it with eCtune). This could also be why you seem to be running rich. If you smell gas, chances are that it is from that cylinder.

As for the temp gauge, the 98-99 Accords use the extra wire on the head, the one that you don't have wired. The 00+ Accords use the ECU to send the signal to the cluster. Why your fans don't work has nothing to do with the gauge. There is something up with the wiring here. I am gonna be working on my brother's Accord with the H23 this week. When I find an easy way to solve the problem, I will post it.