has any one encounter this issue with their temp gauge. my car is warmed up normal temp but it does not show i will have to smack the dash and then it will get a reading for a while and then it will just go back down to the C.
Temp Gauge Not working
- Thread starter CG6
- Start date
DarkSideAccord
nadeshiko fobz ftw..
same here... i'm thinking it might be the sensor on the head, but i've read somewhere that it might be the gauge cluster itself....
DarkSideAccord
nadeshiko fobz ftw..
mine's a 99 EX
F23A1AT
Well-Known Member
You too? I got tired of mine and just got and aftermarket gauge.
i have a 99 EX also. I've been thinking about doing the same thing getting a aftermarket Temp gauge. i havent heard or read anything about it but i was thinking the same thing it migth be the cluster itself cuz when i smack it works.
RedRyder
Save the manuals
Wow I've only heard of this happening when people swap the wrong cluster.
On the 98-99 cars there is a temp sender on the block, right under the distributor. Its a few bucks to replace, I'd start there. (Always replace the cheaper parts first.)
If that doesnt solve it, then you might be looking at a new cluster. OR you can simply get an aftermarket temp gauge.
I'd avoid autometer gauges like the plague. They suck. If you guys want something that works well that is fairly cheap, I'd recommend getting the VDO gauges.
Check out www.egauges.com for some gauges.
If you are looking to actually spend some money, Id look at the DEFI or SPA gauges. Those are what we use in tyhe race cars that don't have a full dash, like AIM, Stack or Pectel.
If that doesnt solve it, then you might be looking at a new cluster. OR you can simply get an aftermarket temp gauge.
I'd avoid autometer gauges like the plague. They suck. If you guys want something that works well that is fairly cheap, I'd recommend getting the VDO gauges.
Check out www.egauges.com for some gauges.
If you are looking to actually spend some money, Id look at the DEFI or SPA gauges. Those are what we use in tyhe race cars that don't have a full dash, like AIM, Stack or Pectel.
why throw parts at it when you can diagnose it with a multi meter?
Go get a multimeter, set it to ohms. Test circuit. The tmp sender is nothing more than a temperature sensitive variable resistor. You can even pull it out of the block and then test it's resistance after inserting it in a pot of boiling water.
Likely you can find the Ohm specs for different temperatures in the FSM.
So, I'm going to show some of my Accord newbness here, is the gauge driven from the sender directly and the PCM from another coolant sensor, or is the gauge fed a signal from the PCM?
Anyway, since you smack the dash and it comes back to the proper temperature reading I would hazard a guess that it's a loose connection in the back of the cluster. I can tell you that the 97+ cherokees are plagued with this issue and it's a simple fix. Pull the cluster, clean up the connectors and then slightly adjust the contacts to, well, have more contact.
Go get a multimeter, set it to ohms. Test circuit. The tmp sender is nothing more than a temperature sensitive variable resistor. You can even pull it out of the block and then test it's resistance after inserting it in a pot of boiling water.
Likely you can find the Ohm specs for different temperatures in the FSM.
So, I'm going to show some of my Accord newbness here, is the gauge driven from the sender directly and the PCM from another coolant sensor, or is the gauge fed a signal from the PCM?
Anyway, since you smack the dash and it comes back to the proper temperature reading I would hazard a guess that it's a loose connection in the back of the cluster. I can tell you that the 97+ cherokees are plagued with this issue and it's a simple fix. Pull the cluster, clean up the connectors and then slightly adjust the contacts to, well, have more contact.
Mostly because it happens while driving, so it pretty hard to get under the hood while driving on the highway.
But, in any other situation, I'd agree with you.
