Accordman722's G23 Build.

[Ocho]

Accorman722's G23 Build.

Ya I am still debating but I want to get it running first before a drop some serious cash on it lol

 

[Valet]

Re: Accorman722's G23 Build.

Wait wait wait.... I forget are you doing FI or NA? I can't remember.

 

[Ocho]

Accorman722's G23 Build.

NA first to learn the Ins and outs of this Frankenstein swap and then boost boost boost! 16 pound goal

 

[jdmcg3]

Re: Accorman722's G23 Build.

^ why build for NA just to re tear it down to be able to handle 16lbs? makes no sense.

just build it for boost now while its still outta the car

 

[Valet]

Re: Accorman722's G23 Build.

NA first to learn the Ins and outs of this Frankenstein swap and then boost boost boost! 16 pound goal

Do you mean you're just going to run NA to break the motor in? Like just with stock pistons? Cause, I would bore it out to 87mm and get Weiseco k24 pistons to leave you at about 9:1. Then boost.

 

[Accordman722]

Re: Accorman722's G23 Build.

Ah... OE pistons only come in +0 and +.25mm, so then your only OTS option would be 86.5mm K20 pistons unless you want to pay for Bisi or other custom pistons.

And that's why I said I'm doing K20 pistons lol

 

[Accordman722]

Re: Accorman722's G23 Build.

Picked up all this and a H22a Head for 50 bucks!!

 

[AFAccord]

Re: Accorman722's G23 Build.

Picked up all this and a H22a Head for 50 bucks!!

That manifold and cams will get you no where close to your lofty goal. Let me make a recommendation before I check out of this thread...

-H22 Head: You're going to need port work so factor that into your budget

-F23 Block: I doubt the cylinders in a block of that condition will be straight enough to run 86mm pistons. If you bore it to 87, the liners will be paper thin, and there's no way I'd trust that at 300hp.

-K20a2 OEM pistons in +.25 size: Forget K24 pistons, they'll barely get you to 11:1cr, and you're going to need more than that. The A2 pistons will get you around 11.6cr. If you still have enough piston to valve clearance while running an aggressive cam (Type-S isn't big enough) then you can mill the head .010" and bring your compression up to ~12:1.

-F23 rods: Get them shot-peened and magnafluxed for stress cracks if you can afford it. You'll need the added insurance at 8,000rpm. You'll also need ARP K20A3 rod bolts.

-Skunk2 IM: You'll need either this or an Euro-R IM, but I imagine the Euro-R is out of your budget which is a shame because S2 has very questionable QC practices and some of their parts are down right garbage.

-You're going to need hot cams to utilize that compression. Hopefully GSC will have something out for the H22 by the time you're ready, if not you could see if Bisi can fab one up for you.

-You're going to need a quality stand-alone or OBD1 system for tuning.

-You're going to need a Tri-Y or similar header. Even the replicas don't come cheap.

Basically, unless you have each of these in your budget already, you're just setting yourself up for a sub 220hp build, if that. Best of luck to you.

 

[jdmcg3]

Re: Accorman722's G23 Build.

That manifold and cams will get you no where close to your lofty goal. Let me make a recommendation before I check out of this thread...

-H22 Head: You're going to need port work so factor that into your budget

-F23 Block: I doubt the cylinders in a block of that condition will be straight enough to run 86mm pistons. If you bore it to 87, the liners will be paper thin, and there's no way I'd trust that at 300hp.

-K20a2 OEM pistons in +.25 size: Forget K24 pistons, they'll barely get you to 11:1cr, and you're going to need more than that. The A2 pistons will get you around 11.6cr. If you still have enough piston to valve clearance while running an aggressive cam (Type-S isn't big enough) then you can mill the head .010" and bring your compression up to ~12:1.

-F23 rods: Get them shot-peened and magnafluxed for stress cracks if you can afford it. You'll need the added insurance at 8,000rpm. You'll also need ARP K20A3 rod bolts.

-Skunk2 IM: You'll need either this or an Euro-R IM, but I imagine the Euro-R is out of your budget which is a shame because S2 has very questionable QC practices and some of their parts are down right garbage.

-You're going to need hot cams to utilize that compression. Hopefully GSC will have something out for the H22 by the time you're ready, if not you could see if Bisi can fab one up for you.

-You're going to need a quality stand-alone or OBD1 system for tuning.

-You're going to need a Tri-Y or similar header. Even the replicas don't come cheap.

Basically, unless you have each of these in your budget already, you're just setting yourself up for a sub 220hp build, if that. Best of luck to you.

great info...

but as far as the manifolds go.. either get the Euro-R or have a blackworkx stage 3 manifold done.. cause the "junk2" manifolds arent worth it.. ive read all up and down prelude forums about how those are no good for builds.. they only help out with improving a stock motor..


accordman.. i wouldnt even trust using the cams you got.. guaranteed those things are outta spec due to not being stored properly. same with those injectors on that manifold...


and a little reminder..

cheap and fast = not reliable
cheap and reliable = not fast
fast and reliable = not cheap

 

[Valet]

Well the skunk2s don't fit without modifying the firewall anyways. I've read before that going 87 is perfectly fine and still leaves plenty of lining. Obviously less, but still enough. Have I heard wrong? And I would buy skunk2 pro or tuner cams.