Build up of F23.

[SuperMidget]

Umm.. You know that the F23 hss an open deck type block right? As for the material I have no idea, And you're talkin crazy 11:1 CR without sleeving? and then boosting?

Hope you plan on sleeving and getting a block guard.. lol these were economy engines.. the more you push, the more it'll push back.... eventually.

 

[99CcordMTF23]

...Iron cylinders. And a block guard.

 

[99CcordMTF23]

Not that ghetto *** metal composite ceramic whatever the hell H22s have.

And, again, i will say, my ideal compression ratio for the build is 9.0:1

 

[99CcordMTF23]

Well, its time to start buying parts. I hit up bisimoto, so maybe they can help. Looking in their new cam gear, and BOV.

 

[Pharell]

Hey guy s i was reading some of the post on here. I have already read a few threads on people using K20 internals rods, and or piston combo. the only thing is reversing the piston since the k20 spins the opposite direction, and making sure clearance is made in the valve dimple on the piston. I also remember them saying a shorter rod would create more side load, not sure how much :S . I'm just here to say its been done, and on harder setup G23. want to try just a simple K20a pistons or wiseco set, on lighter rods or factory. a bump in compression should net a good daily driver with more then you average accord. 200hp+ is feasable with a minor port+matchintake/exhaust, extrude honed intake. @cents

 

[AFAccord]

So, the cg5 is making me angry. I am sick of it acting up so I figured now would be the perfect Time to just build up the motor.

Question time. How well do you think a set of eagle H beams, and a set of 86mm je pistons for a k20a3 would work out in the f23 block? The pistons I was looking at were 11:1 compression. And the rods are a like two millimeters shorter. So I have no idea what compression that would yield. As far as the block, I'm Pretty sure the f23 has iron walls. That's how it looked last time I was In there. Because eventually it will get some boost. Until then I want an unbreakable fully forged and balanced monster(not) but I never want to worry about a piston again. Lol any ideas, tips, ect would be appreciated. My info was obtained from the sticky info thread.

Side question. Someone said you can boost an accord with an apexi vafc and make it work? I call bull****... Any info?

Thank you guys.

The 11:1 JE K20 pistons have a 4.25cc dome. On a stock length F23 rod (141mm), this would bump compression to 12.36:1, and undoubtedly crush your valves. If you were to use the K20 rods (139mm), then your compression drops to 10.2:1.

Why would anyone do either? Let alone both. Is anyone going to answer my question, or keep stating the obvious?

K20a3 forged pistons and rods in an f23 block. Will it work successfully. And for **** sake it won't have 11:1 compression if the rods are 2mm short. I just want to know what the f*cking compression would be afterwards. Jesus Christ you guys. Lol

It will work unsuccessfully. Yes, that's right. With your piston 2mm down in the hole, you pretty much eliminate all quench. Throw some fuel and air in there, compress it 10 fold and strike a match, and only God knows what will happen. My guess is you just end up with measly power and ****ty emissions if you're lucky. You'll likely end up with a motor that is inconsistent, and nearly impossible to tune because every combustion cycle is different from the last.

the compression went up cuz of the stroke, not cuz of the shorter rod. je pistons in a k20 is for 86x86, ur going to a 97mm stroke, stroke increases cr.

chu make no sense.

put it in a calculator, 11:1 on a k20 stock, and put the same pistons in a f23, bet money that compression will jump regardless of the shorter rod.

Give me my money and then GTFO with that hillbilly math...

So 9.8:1 k20a3 pistons would be better? This is some **** man. So the compression will raise due to additional stroke? So with a k20a3 rod the stroke would be 95mm.

the stroke is still 97, cuz thats the crank.

these are the only pistons i see...

http://www.jepistons.com/Catalogs/Sport-Compact/Honda-Acura/k20a2_a3.aspx

the one is 9.0:1 for traditional round.

with a f23 crank, those pistons, k20 rods, and f23 head, i have you .079" in the hole and CR of 8.7:1

You're math is improving!

Hey guy s i was reading some of the post on here. I have already read a few threads on people using K20 internals rods, and or piston combo. the only thing is reversing the piston since the k20 spins the opposite direction, and making sure clearance is made in the valve dimple on the piston. I also remember them saying a shorter rod would create more side load, not sure how much :S . I'm just here to say its been done, and on harder setup G23. want to try just a simple K20a pistons or wiseco set, on lighter rods or factory. a bump in compression should net a good daily driver with more then you average accord. 200hp+ is feasable with a minor port+matchintake/exhaust, extrude honed intake. @cents

The shorter rod will in fact increase side load, especially with 0 offset forged pistons, but even so, the number is still extremely minuscule because our pistons are so light weight as it is. The V8 guys running slugs twice as large are the ones who really need to consider side load. The shorter rod also makes for longer dwell time in the cylinder, which could be useful for producing a cleaner mixture at higher RPMs...

Go ahead, go for the 9:1 pistons and deck the block 2mm to correct the deck height. I would be very interested to see how that works for you. I'm only serious.

 

[99CcordMTF23]

Well, my problem was solved when bisimoto just made a forged rod and piston combo for the f23a1 public yesterday. Besides, I don't feel like doing all that trial and error ****.