Building a new head for swap

[BlkCurrantKord]

Milling the head shouldn't be used as a main means of increasing compression, it should be used to fine tune it. The .015 was just for a street setup that I did years ago along with a slight port/polish to the head, intake manifold, and throttle body.

Thomas Knight = Electric superchargers = gay.

 

[boorishid]

thomas knight is acually electric turbos that are legit he was interviewed in street tuner and ive had emails with him these things take a few battery's and hi output alternator. Point is the superchargers they sell are belt driven, like any other one, he turbos are electric.

Anyways with other head work milling should be a really good way to raise compression the flat pistons in are cars are more efficient when it comes o an even burn than something like a domed piston. Milling is by no means the only thing i plan to do the head like i said im going to port polish and it and add cams. Im just wondering about milling and how to use it properly especially if i want to keep my options open later an FI setup or a bottom end build.

 

[VonDubz]

Actually the difference between the Ulev and the non ulev, i believe is the more restrictive exhaust manifold. There could also be a different basemap setup on the nonulev ecu, though both cars are similar in speed and acceleration regardless lol

 

[sikjdm]

thomas knight is acually electric turbos that are legit he was interviewed in street tuner and ive had emails with him these things take a few battery's and hi output alternator. Point is the superchargers they sell are belt driven, like any other one, he turbos are electric.

Anyways with other head work milling should be a really good way to raise compression the flat pistons in are cars are more efficient when it comes o an even burn than something like a domed piston. Milling is by no means the only thing i plan to do the head like i said im going to port polish and it and add cams. Im just wondering about milling and how to use it properly especially if i want to keep my options open later an FI setup or a bottom end build.

for $2500 i would just build the damn motor..

those aren't "legit"

 

[boorishid]

well honestly idk what the plan is im trying to get one togather, if i do super i could go with a totally diffrent unit.

Anyways so back to the orignal question of where is a good starting point to research milling and ratios gained so on so forth

 

[HondaLuver83]

well honestly idk what the plan is im trying to get one togather, if i do super i could go with a totally diffrent unit.

Anyways so back to the orignal question of where is a good starting point to research milling and ratios gained so on so forth

You should learn how to rebuild engines and then learn about increasing compression/ head work over stock.

 

[boorishid]

well unfourtantely this is my dd and i dont have extra bottom ends laying around to rebuild. Yes it is something i want to do. But i figured i could build this head have it all machined learn to do a swap and ill have some more knowlege. As far as im concerend if i build the thing outside the car and swap it over without the milling itll be a staight head swap without the milling just some adjusment on he cam gear! Sorda seems like a nice starting point but milling is cheap 40 dollars, and if im going to see some gains why not as long as i do my research?

Its true im sord of clueless about the internals but i have manuals and all data access i figure it would get me on the way to learning . And its a nice project. Im not an incomptent mechanic ive done timing belts and engine swaps but unfourtanetely ive never done nething this involved and thats the whole idea to learn and to make my car faster! At some point one has to step up to internals. As far as im concerened adding a cam and gear and a port and polish and some stronger springs retainers should be about the same a sraight swap when the head is built and ready to bolt on.

I am only a bit worried about the milling part becuase i dont know how to do the numbers and that is what im asking with help on, and i also dont know exactly how it will affect the timing, ive heard it will reard it and im not sure if even a small .010 or .015 mill will cause these problems.

Anyways thats why im here trying to learn about rebuilding top ends! Hoping someone with all motor skills will have some usefull insight into my project. By no means is this a rush kinda thing. I plan on getting the thing checked and milled at the same time. Then a port and polish (either myself with a dremel is i feel confident enough or send it somewhere) Then i will rebuild the valve train with stronger bisi stuff and do the cam. When the project is done the head will sit there until i can afford a piggyback and a tune.

 

[boorishid]

And to tell you the truth i will probably be going to an ms4 tranny over my auto and plan on doing that in the mean time while learning all i can. Im only really trying to learn more about milling right now becuase when i pick this head up next week the machine shop is gonna clean it and test it, they said 40 dollars for a mill so i figured id try to save a trip and fit that in. I live in a small town in socal so the nearest shop for me is about 45 minutes away in palm springs.

 

[NASOHC]

FYI: Heads are identical - same part numbers... I have both. BTW: I got an extra F23 head that's milled and ported (flow tested at 287cfm) will boost your compression to 10.5:1 - PM me if interested.

Here's a link to FS thread: http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22330

 

[boorishid]

Sorry man didnt even know this thing was on here, ive already put a deposit on my head cant go back now.