Cammed!! G23 NonVtec build-in progress

[Egi7]

Oh My god! I think I just found the project for me!
I've been wating for years to get an H22, but this sounds like much more fun.
I'll be wating to see how your G23 works out.
Hey, where did you do your research. I searched around a bit, and found the
writeup on honda-tech, but it seems that they did a lot of mods with the pistons and enlarging the head. It looks like you are trying to mostly bolt on
the head, and don't cut the block or head or replace the pistons. Is that right?

Yes just bolt on, the h23 head bolts to the f23 block perfectly, Pirate used usdm H22 pistons in his f23 block thats why he had to bore it out to 87mm. If I wanted high compression I would just use some base model RSX pistons, they have the same compression height and bore as the f23. The is no cutting of the block, head, or boring out cylindars. Stock head studs work fine, f23 mani bolts up ( the ports are slightly different, but they do line up). I researched many different sites, from Honda-tech to Cb7tuner, and talked to a few guys who have built g-series frankenstiens. I will probably be the first 6th gen accord to complete this swap

 

[ib042129]

Yes just bolt on, the h23 head bolts to the f23 block perfectly, Pirate used usdm H22 pistons in his f23 block thats why he had to bore it out to 87mm. If I wanted high compression I would just use some base model RSX pistons, they have the same compression height and bore as the f23. The is no cutting of the block, head, or boring out cylindars. Stock head studs work fine, f23 mani bolts up ( the ports are slightly different, but they do line up). I researched many different sites, from Honda-tech to Cb7tuner, and talked to a few guys who have built g-series frankenstiens. I will probably be the first 6th gen accord to complete this swap

Somehow I just fell in love with the idea yesterday.
But you say it's just a bolt on of the h23 head?
But why are people changing the ecu and the distributor?
I mean my engine is f23 non vtech, so I would think I would not need
a new ecu since all I'm doing is converting from sohc to dohc.
(Well I guess you have an auto transmission so that may complicate things
for you.)
So what complicatios are there besides having to tune the timing on the new head?
I'm still reading up on the swap, but some help would be very nice.
Thanks

 

[BadgerType]

he is changing the ecu and distributor beacauuse he is changing everything over to obd-i.

teh benefit of that is easier tunability, especially if he is not buying chorme or uberdata, although an o2 sensor might be a good investmate.(sp?)

staying obd-ii means running AEM EMS or somthing along those lines, which get up in price

if u do this, which is not for the faint of heart, it takes alot of time and money, and of course the "3000 mile challenge"

 

[Egi7]

Somehow I just fell in love with the idea yesterday.
But you say it's just a bolt on of the h23 head?
But why are people changing the ecu and the distributor?
I mean my engine is f23 non vtech, so I would think I would not need
a new ecu since all I'm doing is converting from sohc to dohc.
(Well I guess you have an auto transmission so that may complicate things
for you.)
So what complicatios are there besides having to tune the timing on the new head?
I'm still reading up on the swap, but some help would be very nice.
Thanks

You are going to need to run a better ecu for that H23 head. For one, the compression will change, the stock H23 cams are twice as agressive as non-vtec f23 cams, etc. Your ecu, is agressively down tuned for good gas milage, and low power output, especially since its the non-vtec ulev. You would be doing yourself an injustice by just slapping on the h23 head with your stock ecu. If you wanted to be on the conservative side and save a lil money, you could use the H23 obd2b P14 ecu which would easily replace the f23 obd2b ecu, but even then the p14 is programmed for a 95mm stroke and 87mm bore which is what the H23 has, you have a 97mm stroke with a 86mm bore, so there will need to be some timing and fuel changes, it probably wont be that noticable and will still run good, but if you want to get the most out of a hybrid, some sort of management software will be needed, thus converting back to OBD1. And the distributor is whole nother story...lol, it took me a month to figure out what to do about it. So here goes, the H23 head will need the obd2 h22/23 dissy in order to work on a 6th gen. The obd2 f23 dissy only has one plug with 4 wires(sensors) and the obd2 H22/23 has 2 plugs with a total of 6 wires(sensors). Before I realized this I thought that the dissy's would be a straight clean changeover, but boy was I wrong. After collecting distributor diagrams and talking to neighborhood Honda technicans, I came up with a diagram for wiring obd2b h22/23 dissy's to 6th gen accords. Read carefully, I garuntee this will all sink in Ok here it is, remember this is all theoretical because I havent done it yet, but after diliberation, diagrams and certified honda techs iam confident that this method will work.

G23 frankenstien - Distributor wiring diagram created by me !!!!!!

Specs:
F23 block/H23 head
Delta 260 Grind Camshafts
obd2 H22/23 distributor
P06 ecu/JDM h22 Accord sir TCU

F23 Distributor (obd2) has one plug (sensor) that contains 4 wires

1. Black/yellow - Rpm lead signal
2. Green/yellow - ICM ignitor
3. Yellow - CYP cylindar position +
4. Black- CYP cylindar position -


H22/23 Distributor (obd2) has two plugs (sensors) that contians 6 wires total

* First plug

1. Black/yellow - Rpm lead signal
2. Blue - Rpm lead signal

* Second plug

1. Green/yellow - ICM ignitor
2. Yellow - CYP cylindar position +
3. Black - CYP cylindar position -
4. Green - TDC top dead centor +


F23 H23/23

1. Black/yellow - Rpm lead signal = 1. Black/yellow - Rpm lead signal
2. Green/yellow - ICM ignitor = 1. Green/yellow - ICM ignitor
3. Yellow - CYP cylindar position + = 2. Yellow - CYP cylindar position +
4. Black- CYP cylindar position - = 3. Black - CYP cylindar position -


notes = I was informed that the Crank position sensor (CKP) was moved from the distributor to the crank on obd2 F and H motors.

Down by the crank pully there are 4 wires that contain the (TDC) signal, (TDC) ground, (CKP) signal, (CKP) ground
-red #1 - TDC sensor
-green #1- TDC sensor
-white #2 - CKP sensor
-blue #2 - CKP sensor

Hypothesis = *splice the wires, and connect the matching colors and "functions" correspondingly, and "maybe" leave the left over h22/23 wires that the f32 distributor plug didnt use, disconneted, which is only the "Green - TDC top dead centor +" and the "Blue - Rpm lead signal" . The f23 should have the TDC sensors near the crank gear so the distributor doesnt need them. And since the f23 plug has the "Black/yellow - Rpm lead signal", i shouldnt worry about the "Blue - Rpm lead signal". Theoritically since the f23 distributor ran fine with the 4 wires and the other missing sensors placed else where, the obd2 h22/23 should be fine also.

 

[BadgerType]

maybe someone can answer this, out of all the g23 engines i have seen and heard about, all of them are non vtec. i have a good cb7 friend who is doin f22 on a f20b head which is non-vtec. is it that hard to wire vtec into the engine. i just see a range of power comming out of a dual cam vtec engine, especially at boost(me in three years...yay). Anyone?

 

[Egi7]

no, there have been lots of G-series vtec's utilizing the f22 and f23 block. there was a guy on Honda-tech (not SamIam26) who did the g23-vtec hybrid f23/h22 with boost and pulled 300hp and 270tq with 10psi and a stock motor, 8:3 compression, Untuned, and with only 2000rpm of boost!!!!

 

[BadgerType]

nvm, i just remebered a guy that i saw dyno (Adam cb7 f23/h22 from ga), with vtec. wow, i suck at memory

 

[4dr4bangrAccord]

you lost me on the dissy part....so you need a F23 and H22/H23 dissy? or your just explainging what the F23 has/does?

 

[BadgerType]

whatever head he uses, he will have to use that dizzy.

 

[Egi7]

You will have to use the obd2 H22/23 dissy, I was just explaining the wiring that must be done to make it work