iam_nas
Well-Known Member
whats better a red top or yellow top?... battery
capacitors
- Thread starter FallenAngelHIM
- Start date
SykVSyx
Well-Known Member
For a system or other heavy load, then a yellow top. For cold weather starts and no heavy load, a red top.
SykVSyx
Well-Known Member
With my system plans, the installer said I should get like a 20farad cap. I'm looking at the Tsunami 18 farad one, may just go with that as well as two yellow tops.
steadypimpin
Well-Known Member
damn, thats hardcore bro!
lyttleviet
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- Joined
- May 6, 2007
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on a stock alternator and decent battery or stock battery.. you are just putting more strain on them both by adding a cap.
AFAccord
Well-Known Member
I honestly don't see what all the fuss is about. The general consensus (correct consensus IMO) is what NINaudio stated, but let's not forget the exact purpose of a capacitor in this context... to resist a change in voltage. They function like batteries, though much more efficient at charging and discharging, but also with less capacity than a battery.
It's just like building levees in a wave pool. The more you build, the less momentum and force the waves have to move the theoretical rubber duckie up and down. It works the same way with an electrical system, constantly dampening the voltage drops from a high current load, so I don't see how someone can honestly say they do nothing. They just have limited ability, and eventually with enough current draw, you reach a point where they're just not as effective as a secondary deep cycle battery would be.
If someone already has a capacitor, or can purchase one for less than $100, and does not have the ability to spend $200+ on a deep cycle battery and new wiring, then I cannot think of one reason why they shouldn't use one.
It's just like building levees in a wave pool. The more you build, the less momentum and force the waves have to move the theoretical rubber duckie up and down. It works the same way with an electrical system, constantly dampening the voltage drops from a high current load, so I don't see how someone can honestly say they do nothing. They just have limited ability, and eventually with enough current draw, you reach a point where they're just not as effective as a secondary deep cycle battery would be.
If someone already has a capacitor, or can purchase one for less than $100, and does not have the ability to spend $200+ on a deep cycle battery and new wiring, then I cannot think of one reason why they shouldn't use one.
steadypimpin
Well-Known Member
great post. They work. If you have a halfway decent setup that isn't meant to shake the neighborhood then I would suggest getting a cap.
noticed this thread was old but oh well...
so i plan to get a capacitor for my amp. i'm currently running 2 amps. 380watt amp for the subs and 200-300watt JL amp for the coaxial speakers. so basically i'm not running more than 600-700watts from both of my amps together. i noticed that my lights started to dim. i'm not sure if grounding more wires in the engine bay will do the trick but here is my question!
i noticed some caps would blow up. is it this common? secondly, what's a good reasonable cap i should get for a 600-700 watt amps?
i never had dimming problems before when i had one amp but now i'm running 2 amps and it's started to dim. i have a volt meter which i noticed it go down to 8-9 volts once in awhile even when i'm driving.
so i plan to get a capacitor for my amp. i'm currently running 2 amps. 380watt amp for the subs and 200-300watt JL amp for the coaxial speakers. so basically i'm not running more than 600-700watts from both of my amps together. i noticed that my lights started to dim. i'm not sure if grounding more wires in the engine bay will do the trick but here is my question!
i noticed some caps would blow up. is it this common? secondly, what's a good reasonable cap i should get for a 600-700 watt amps?
i never had dimming problems before when i had one amp but now i'm running 2 amps and it's started to dim. i have a volt meter which i noticed it go down to 8-9 volts once in awhile even when i'm driving.
AFAccord
Well-Known Member
Not all amps are created equal.
Two amps that produce the same amount of power won't necessarily draw the same current. The amplifier's efficiency determines how much they will affect your car's electrical system.
This is especially true for people who use a class A/B amplifier to drive subwoofers by bridging the outputs. This is a much less efficient setup than using a mono-block class D amp to produce large amounts of power.
As for caps blowing up, I've never seen that happen with my experience.
What voltage are you seeing with the radio off cruising above 2000rpm?
Two amps that produce the same amount of power won't necessarily draw the same current. The amplifier's efficiency determines how much they will affect your car's electrical system.
This is especially true for people who use a class A/B amplifier to drive subwoofers by bridging the outputs. This is a much less efficient setup than using a mono-block class D amp to produce large amounts of power.
As for caps blowing up, I've never seen that happen with my experience.
What voltage are you seeing with the radio off cruising above 2000rpm?
i'm usually running ~13volts while i'm on constant driving. sometimes it bounces down to 11-10 volts and i noticed in my dash lights it dim and so on my volt meter, it also shows that the volt went down. so maybe i should try out the grounding wires first then the capacitor? i'm driving a minivan btw. haha
after reading the entries from this thread, people said that the capacitor could blow up? it sounds dangerous and unliable to have a capacitor. or maybe i should get a mini-battery instead?
after reading the entries from this thread, people said that the capacitor could blow up? it sounds dangerous and unliable to have a capacitor. or maybe i should get a mini-battery instead?
