Russianred
Snail Spools You!
My coolant gauge would work too. Though sometimes it would be intermittent, and sometimes show erroneous overheating, or what I thought was erroneous. Just kept fluctuating.
car wont start,AEM EMS installed
- Thread starter 1NonlyAccord
- Start date
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
all my other gauges work,just the Tachometer. But I think my cranking position is so aggressive or w.e proper term is its causing the AEMtuner to freak out,watching the chart its going wack!
other thing is I noticed my AC controls dont work anymore..the lights dont illuminate think EMS has anything to do with that..worked fine with the 1050..
other thing is I noticed my AC controls dont work anymore..the lights dont illuminate think EMS has anything to do with that..worked fine with the 1050..
Russianred
Snail Spools You!
The lights would be on a different circuit so I don't think it would be caused by the EMS, but who knows. I would check the other circuit as much as you can.
I would not drive the car until we iron out all the inconsistencies from moving from the V1 ecu to the V2 ecu. The ignition timing issues are a result of the fact that the ecu doesn't know what RPM you are at and hence can not apply the proper ignition timing. Don't start up the car again till we fix this.
I will try to get some work done on your tune today...but i have a grad project due tonight, and it's kinda kicking my ***. i'll see what can fix on the tach stuff. After the tach stuff is fixed, it should be much better and should run fine. but we will see when we get there.
The main problem here is that AEM does not provide a base map for the F22B (which is practically what everyone uses as a base map for the F23A*) for the V2 EMS. As a result the V1 ems calibration needs to be ported over the V2. The problem here is that the firmwares are different and a copy over port is not possible. Every single parameter which establishes how the motor runs needs to be manually setup on the V2 calibration. The firmwares are quite large and complex and contain several hundred parameters. Hunting them down and fixing them is a timely process. I thought it would be easier, but such is not the case.
I will try to get some work done on your tune today...but i have a grad project due tonight, and it's kinda kicking my ***. i'll see what can fix on the tach stuff. After the tach stuff is fixed, it should be much better and should run fine. but we will see when we get there.
The main problem here is that AEM does not provide a base map for the F22B (which is practically what everyone uses as a base map for the F23A*) for the V2 EMS. As a result the V1 ems calibration needs to be ported over the V2. The problem here is that the firmwares are different and a copy over port is not possible. Every single parameter which establishes how the motor runs needs to be manually setup on the V2 calibration. The firmwares are quite large and complex and contain several hundred parameters. Hunting them down and fixing them is a timely process. I thought it would be easier, but such is not the case.
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
the car is parked..so im not sure what you want me to do as of now..everything is fine minus my AC control panel dosnt work and the idle is to high.
the idle is not a huge concern to me at the moment. The reason being that it may be a side effect of something else. How does the car run is more important. when you hit the throttle does it properly respond? any miss fires? any funny sounds?
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
It responds fairly quickly..Im not sure about missfiring i still gotta re-gap my plugs to .0025 or something-left my gauge at parents house.
**The day before my car died,I drove to work and about 2 stop lights later my idle went to 2k like it is now and wouldnt come back down.
**The day before my car died,I drove to work and about 2 stop lights later my idle went to 2k like it is now and wouldnt come back down.
So the car runs like it did before minus the high idle is what you are saying?
That is the most important thing. idle we can fix easily and fast.....but making sure the motor runs right is the most important. I'm not there, so i can't say whether everything is working or not. Especially when trying to essentially move to a totally different platform.
If you wanna fix the idle, click on the idle tab in AEMTuner and look for the "Idle % vs Target" graph/table. The guy that tuned the car for you looks like he half finished the table and there will be a large spike at around 2100. Bring that down so that it is linear with the rest of the graph. If the idle is still too high then you gotta bring down the values in the table/graph. That is a process of actually running the car and adjusting to make it run right.
That is the most important thing. idle we can fix easily and fast.....but making sure the motor runs right is the most important. I'm not there, so i can't say whether everything is working or not. Especially when trying to essentially move to a totally different platform.
If you wanna fix the idle, click on the idle tab in AEMTuner and look for the "Idle % vs Target" graph/table. The guy that tuned the car for you looks like he half finished the table and there will be a large spike at around 2100. Bring that down so that it is linear with the rest of the graph. If the idle is still too high then you gotta bring down the values in the table/graph. That is a process of actually running the car and adjusting to make it run right.
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
okay sounds great,Im going to run to Oriellys tmr and grab another gap gauge and re-do my plugs and bring the idle down. and again still awaiting to hear back from local tuner for touch up/retune so I dont have to drive far with the car with unknown safety.
so would that cause the "bogging" im experiencing while WOT? but then again i was having that issue with my missing link/FMU setup before I did this swap/setup.
so would that cause the "bogging" im experiencing while WOT? but then again i was having that issue with my missing link/FMU setup before I did this swap/setup.
the bogging could be from plugs gapped too large and boost. Fix is either getting a coil capable of a higher voltage or shrink the plug gap.
Also check that you are not dumping too much fuel. that will do it to you as well.
Also check that you are not dumping too much fuel. that will do it to you as well.
