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Be aware that a "JDM" F23A isn't a real thing. Any engine stamped F23A is exactly the same as any F23A1. Just know that that makes no difference other than making you feel like you have something special.
Engine knock: DIY Rebuild?
- Thread starter MusicMan374
- Start date
Be aware that a "JDM" F23A isn't a real thing. Any engine stamped F23A is exactly the same as any F23A1. Just know that that makes no difference other than making you feel like you have something special.
BlkCurrantKord
Super Moderator
You can pull the engine yourself and rebuild it easily enough or have a shop do it.
Do this much yourself - Pull the engine, take all accessories off, tear it down.
Find a quality machine shop/rebuilder to rehone the cylinder walls, make sure the crank is still within spec, resize the rods, get OE bearings, piston rings, new gaskets, reassemble.
It's not difficult.
Do this much yourself - Pull the engine, take all accessories off, tear it down.
Find a quality machine shop/rebuilder to rehone the cylinder walls, make sure the crank is still within spec, resize the rods, get OE bearings, piston rings, new gaskets, reassemble.
It's not difficult.
yea, the only difference is the JDM F23a will generally have lower mileage than any junk yard motor you'll find here. I'm not saying all JDM F23A's are better, but they are generally in better condition.
As for finding one. Check to see if you have any JDM importers locally first.
As for finding one. Check to see if you have any JDM importers locally first.
MusicMan374
Member
I would love to rebuild my own engine, rather than just swapping, but I'm worried it will take too much time. This is my commuter and I don't have another vehicle I can consistently use. If rebuilding my own can be done inside of a week then I will consider it. If I do it myself, I should probably do it asap, correct? Are rebuild kits any good or should I go OEM?
If I do a swap, then I probably won't go JDM since I have a f23a4. I'd rather replace with another f23a4. But I'd rather rebuild and fix my own engine
If I do a swap, then I probably won't go JDM since I have a f23a4. I'd rather replace with another f23a4. But I'd rather rebuild and fix my own engine
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BlkCurrantKord
Super Moderator
Just go OEM.
schmiddr2
Well-Known Member
Some aftermarket brands from auto parts stores are plenty good and will be cheaper than OEM. This is not an engine you are going to improve it's value or get 100K extra miles from using OEM parts. Also, depending on where you live you might find an "engine parts warehouse" that just sell reliable internal parts at discount.
Rebuilding takes 1 day if everything is timed out perfectly including a machine shop that will schedule something for you...which is not common. So plan on at least 2.
Sounds like time is important. Do you know any mechanics personally? If so then ask them to come over and look at the rod ends/bearings and the crank when you take off the oil pan. I'm betting that if the crank specs fine then you can just replace a wrist pin (although this seems like a tight space so I dunno) or bearing as needed.
Or if you are good at searching maybe find on CL: http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/3518314000.html
Rebuilding takes 1 day if everything is timed out perfectly including a machine shop that will schedule something for you...which is not common. So plan on at least 2.
Sounds like time is important. Do you know any mechanics personally? If so then ask them to come over and look at the rod ends/bearings and the crank when you take off the oil pan. I'm betting that if the crank specs fine then you can just replace a wrist pin (although this seems like a tight space so I dunno) or bearing as needed.
Or if you are good at searching maybe find on CL: http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/3518314000.html
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MusicMan374
Member
Time is important but if it won't take more than a week it should be fine. I know someone who works on old cars I could get his advice but he doesn't know as much about newer engines.
If I decide not to rebuild myself, which is more economical and reliable, buying a rebuilt engine and swapping or taking mine to a rebuild shop?
If I decide not to rebuild myself, which is more economical and reliable, buying a rebuilt engine and swapping or taking mine to a rebuild shop?
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wnt_2b_boosted
Well-Known Member
If you want to rebuild just by a cheap motor to get you through the rebuild and do it right you never know if your going to be with in tolerance once you get it apart. could end up costing you more money for replacement parts and even time to order new ones. If needed? I'm just saying you never know whats in side the box until you open it! If it were me I would just do a swap with a known good running engine and work on the rebuild in my spare time.
MusicMan374
Member
That sounds like a good plan, and probably what I'm going to do. From my research, imported JDM low mileage engines can be had for $500-600 + tax and shipping, but obviously they don't come in ULEV california emissions. I know the F23A1 and A4 are essentially the same engine, and the JDM F23A is identical to the F23A1, correct? If this is the case, could I simply use the exhaust manifold and upstream o2 sensor with the non-ULEV engine to essentially make it ULEV? Otherwise I will get check engine lights with the ULEV ECU. I also heard a couple of places that the VTEC solenoid doesn't use a pressure switch on JDM engines, so I should use my existing VTEC solenoid just in case.
Are there any other major differences between JDM and USDM engines to keep in mind when installing?
Are there any other major differences between JDM and USDM engines to keep in mind when installing?
MusicMan374
Member
So after some thought and getting some advice from the mechanic, I'm deciding to not replace my engine or pay to have it replaced. I don't have the resources to track down a reliable, warrantied engine. I'm just going to drive this until it blows, and hopefully it'll last through college another 4 years, when I can get a certified used car with my savings.
Anyhow, would using thicker oil such as 10w30 or 10w40 extend the life of this engine at all? I know that can sometimes quiet the knocks of bearings when they start to go, so I'm wondering if it will help at all my mid-engine knock. Let me know. Also, in the last few days I've noticed my oil light staying on for up to 3 seconds after I start my car when it's been sitting for 30+minutes. Hopefully that doesn't mean my oil pump is going out too.
I've already put well over $3000 in maintenance and repairs into this car over the past year and a half, and I bought it for $3200. This car is just starting to seem not worth it
Anyhow, would using thicker oil such as 10w30 or 10w40 extend the life of this engine at all? I know that can sometimes quiet the knocks of bearings when they start to go, so I'm wondering if it will help at all my mid-engine knock. Let me know. Also, in the last few days I've noticed my oil light staying on for up to 3 seconds after I start my car when it's been sitting for 30+minutes. Hopefully that doesn't mean my oil pump is going out too.
I've already put well over $3000 in maintenance and repairs into this car over the past year and a half, and I bought it for $3200. This car is just starting to seem not worth it 
