Engine Theory, Build, Etc Discussion.

iHazSnail

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so here's my question, i have a NA cam in my car (dont have the specs on it really) but it was for a mild NA built with the cam gear advanced by 2degrees. Could that be messing things up somewhere across the power band? or is it just too vague of a question and get a hold of the specs on the cam first?
I spoke to Mrs. Gude over at Gude performance (where i got my head package from) and she said that it is so mild that it shouldn't make a difference if i wanted them to make a turbo specific grind..kinda confused:thinking:
 

Kid2000EX

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Im kinda confused, I would really need the specs of your to tell if it was a mild cam or not because they could tell u its mild and it could be an aggressive na cam. Let us know the specs
 

BlkCurrantKord

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Are you basically asking if having what was designed as an NA cam in your boosted motor now is affecting anything? - Thats what I got out of it.

I'm not sure but I dont think I've ever seen any specs on the stock F23 cam. Unless somebody knows of or can find them.
 

iHazSnail

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im gonna give gude a call later they shd have the specs on stocks and whtever they did
 

SourHead

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What sup guys, Looking for some input; I have a 98 accord LX 5spd F23A1
135,500 miles on the OD. Everything on the car is still OEM Except(Battery) No leaks what so ever. I just purchase this car to replace my gas HAPPY 4.3L Vortec (94 Blazer 4x4)
Well this is my plan as a Mild/Bolt ons for this car so far
Clutch(exedy OEM Replacement) Thinking about getting Lighten Flywheel but i keep getting mixed opinions... I have always use Factory flywheel on all my Toyota! Never needed to use aftermarket..
Replacing Timing Belt,water Pump,tensioner Ect..
Cold Air Intake, (AEM)
Apexi World Sport II Catback
headers,(any suggestions)
Spark Plugs(NGK) 8.5mm Wires(MSD) 6A box and blaster coil(up in the air on MSD Ignition) They are awsome but i have had my share of issues with toyota and using MSD...:bash:
Engine Grounding Kit, I was looking in to VAFCII to tune my engine but some people have told me that its a waste for these motors.. Just do OBDI conversion with a chipped p28 or p13.. I would like to keep it as reliable as possible so turbo is out of the question but would like to get atleast high 15's on the track (NOS sounds good):thinking:
 

hiddengamer7

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Depending on your driving skills and how well your suspension/tires are set up, you can get into 15's without a tune, just bolt ons will help. The bolt ons you listed are solid choices. For the clutch, I would go with an Exedy stage 1, with a lighter flywheel, I have heard nothing but good things about them. For a header, I would get the DC Sports Ceramic header, its one of the best on the market for our cars and will last a long time. If you want to convert to OBD-1, a P28 ecu would be a great choice, but I would save my money if you are just modded with bolt ons, if you want to look into getting maybe a mild street cam from Bisimoto Engineering, then a tune would be in order and you would be set. Suspension and new wheels/tires would be the first thing I would do though.
 

skuby

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Here's 1 for you.

I have 2 complete engines a '94 F22A1 & a '98 F23A1.
Currently (obviously) the F23 is still in my ride but I'm looking to build the F22 for boost. Now I was thinking about building the F22 to F23 specs with the built internals but I'm not sure if there are any differences other than the bore & stroke to worry about when the time came to install it once completed (example: intake, exhaust, sensors etc.).
 

Jeremiah

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Hey guy's, I am prepping to do a motor build myself, on a spare block that I have (actually going to pay someone to build it for me... ) but my question is about the kaizen speed balance shaft removal kit. Do any of you know of this being done with an F23, and any adverse changes? I know that he engine will have some vibration, and that'll be fine, I'm just curious about being detremintal to the longevity of the build. (crower rods, and forged pistons)
 
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