F23 into a F20B

clutchkiickerr

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Why Crower... Stock Spec Crower rods are $783.98..

http://www.raceeng.com/c-3521-connecting-rods.aspx

To hold 12:5.1 compression piston,
this way i will feel more confident when in the need to feed it some gas and it wont snap on me...( and if does , oh well )

tell me something bro,
Where in the HaiL do i get the whole shift assembly
Shift bracket w/ shifter
washer
and cables
What year of prelude or accord( if i come across them ) shift components fit on my car.
* i figure all honda have a luxury car that fits each others component like acura is with civic, accord is with prelude...i hope if not im dOOMed
 
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AFAccord

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Based off this information is it safe to use a F23 Crank and Rods(which will really be a Eagle Light rod to be on the safe side) with F20B pistons in a F20B DOHC Vtec block

You would need a custom piston with a 26mm comp height or a custom 140mm rod to avoid the piston from tapping the head. I don't know of any OEM honda parts that meet those specs.
 

AFAccord

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Block :
85MM Bore
97MM Stroke
11.0.1 Compresssion
Light Rods
8LB Flywheel

Where are you getting these numbers??


You're going to need custom length rods since you're changing the stroke 9mm.

^^ yup

Yeah we plan on calling eagle for that but in a worst case scenario, wouldnt the rods from the F23 fit? Cuz if he cant get the eagle , he's going with the crower that are made for a F23 bottom end.

You'll need pistons with 26mm comp height. It's not even worth going aftermarket rods for all motor. Aftermarket rods are heavier and don't come cheap. Just shot peen the stock ones and get K20a3 ARP rod bolts.


well if the labor is too much for him, he plans on using the pistons the F20B came with
i personally told him its better if he bored the block to 86mm, he can use the K20 or custom pistons to increase the torque much better. But it is what it is. People here charge like 1200-1400 to assemble a short block which is a rob:
hot tank,balance,assemble,...crazy

Assembly alone should run you around $400, not counting any parts, bearings, etc. I spent $350 on pumps, gaskets and seals for the block, another $400 to get it bored, honed, crank checked , balanced and cleaned, rings gapped and pistons installed to rods, and I still have to assemble it and spend $100 on bearings. It adds up fast. Not to mention the $400 I'm about to drop on the head, and that's not counting the $800 that's already been spent on the valvetrain.


To hold 12:5.1 compression piston,
this way i will feel more confident when in the need to feed it some gas and it wont snap on me...( and if does , oh well )

See above...
 
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