Rusty Accord
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you should have just built your own harness. I mean the Yonaka harness had loose pins/wires in it, so that should have given you a heads up that it was going to be a problem.
Frankensteins Official Thread
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Sounds like you should have just built your own harness. I mean the Yonaka harness had loose pins/wires in it, so that should have given you a heads up that it was going to be a problem.
I did make my own harness lol. I redid it for the third time today. I’m going to see if it works this weekend. The header arrived and was too short so I’ll have to have welded regardless lol. So I’ll provide an update Saturday
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Ok so the fuel pump wasn’t coming on because the pcb pin is in a16 and the oem pin is a15 so once I move it over 1 it should start just fine. If that doesn’t work I’ll jump the flr wire from the ecu to the wire on the factory harness. I’ll get to see if it starts on Saturday 
Well long story short the fuel pump issue was finally resolved. Car started and ran yesterday. The only thing was there was a really nasty oil leak between the trans and block. I’m going to assume it’s oil pan because the f20b doesn’t use a gasket it uses Honda bond so when I took the rear main seal assembly off I probably messed up the gasket 
. So hopefully now that I re did the gasket it won’t leak. If it doesn’t the swap is more or less complete. Just need to wire up vss and tach, put the hood back on, clean up the wiring and put the passenger side dash back together. Can’t wait to drive this thing already. At least this swap only took about a month where as the h23 took almost 4 months.
Interesting side note. The little sections that the camshaft ride on, I found one of them scored so bad it ate a hole in the aluminum and left a deep groove on the camshaft on the exhaust side on the H. The mechanic I left my car to a while back said he adjusted the valves for me. I wonder if that had anything to do with it. The groove was right by the number 2 piston which is the one that failed.
. So hopefully now that I re did the gasket it won’t leak. If it doesn’t the swap is more or less complete. Just need to wire up vss and tach, put the hood back on, clean up the wiring and put the passenger side dash back together. Can’t wait to drive this thing already. At least this swap only took about a month where as the h23 took almost 4 months.Interesting side note. The little sections that the camshaft ride on, I found one of them scored so bad it ate a hole in the aluminum and left a deep groove on the camshaft on the exhaust side on the H. The mechanic I left my car to a while back said he adjusted the valves for me. I wonder if that had anything to do with it. The groove was right by the number 2 piston which is the one that failed.
Rusty Accord
Well-Known Member
At least you're making progress and getting closer.
Thought I was too 
Turns out that nasty leak I had is still there after resealing the oil pan which means its the rear main. This of course means Everything including the transmission has to come off AGAIN. Hopefully I can find the source of the leak quickly when i'm in there because its a bad leak. I used the right stuff to seal the RMS housing but I didnt really like that stuff to begin with. Im going to remove it and use permatex ultra black instead which always has better results.
Turns out that nasty leak I had is still there after resealing the oil pan which means its the rear main. This of course means Everything including the transmission has to come off AGAIN. Hopefully I can find the source of the leak quickly when i'm in there because its a bad leak. I used the right stuff to seal the RMS housing but I didnt really like that stuff to begin with. Im going to remove it and use permatex ultra black instead which always has better results.
NSWDoc
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How is he running for now dude?Thought I was too
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Not great. No o2 means hella rich. Also the huge oil puddle from the rear main means its just not driveable yet so off comes the tranny. Again lol
Rusty Accord
Well-Known Member
Thought I was too
Damn 1 step forward and 2 steps back.
Look around real good in there while you have the trans off. You might find something stupid caused the problem. Get a new rear seal too, as the spring might have come out of your old one, causing the leak.I only mention something stupid, as I changed an intake manifold on a Chevy once, and had a wire get caught in between while putting it together. Needless to say, another set of gaskets and an afternoon later it was fixed. I just missed it while doing other things. It happens.
It has to be because I swear I put the permatex on with a spoon and I did replace the seal but i'm going to rip the trans off and see what I can find. I may just use a new seal just to be safe. Its a good sized leak. About 2 inches in in diameter after about 30 seconds of running so I really need to see whats going on. the seal itself cant be leaking so my guess is the housing. Also, that wire would have been ended if that was my chevy lol. I would have cut it to 100 pieces for causing me grief lol.
