x5carl3tMurd3rx
Well-Known Member
Re: Going for a re-tune....
lets hope nothing else goes wrong.
lets hope nothing else goes wrong.
Going for a re-tune.... (Round #2) Updated 10/28/13
- Thread starter hotaccord243
- Start date
Russianred
Snail Spools You!
Re: Going for a re-tune....
x5carl3tMurd3rx
Well-Known Member
Re: Going for a re-tune....
^nice thats a badass face
^nice thats a badass face
hotaccord243
Well-Known Member
Re: Going for a re-tune....
Ha-ha. Thanks guys.
That is a bad-*** smilie....
Ha-ha. Thanks guys.
That is a bad-*** smilie....
hotaccord243
Well-Known Member
Re: Going for a re-tune....
Just got it back this morning.... Hoping to get the car up and running by end of next week at the latest....
Just got it back this morning.... Hoping to get the car up and running by end of next week at the latest....
x5carl3tMurd3rx
Well-Known Member
Re: Going for a re-tune....
sounds great man!!
sounds great man!!
hotaccord243
Well-Known Member
Re: Going for a re-tune....
So I have tried several times to get the timing correct.... and when I crank the car, adjust the timing on the laptop in AEM software, the timing line only stays at the bottom half of the crank pulley (meaning 180 degrees away from where I want it to be) no matter how far I retard or advance the timing on the software.
I know everything is correct and every part of the timing is at TDC (when installing the belts) and where it should be, but to get the spark timing (setting base timing to 0 degrees) through the AEM software is just flat out being a PITA....
I am honestly debating on borrowing a friends truck/trailer, and hauling it to a shop to get it running again, drive it home switch out the gas, and set the fuel map to adjust for the E85 (to save money doing it myself) and bring it back and get it re-tuned....
Has anybody set base timing through the AEM Software?
Here's my steps:
- Disable all injectors
- Crank the car to see where the timing mark is at
- adjust timing (retarding or advancing using the AEM timing setup) to get the timing back to TDC mark on the timing belt cover..
- Re-crank the car to see where it is at.
- Adjust and repeat as necessary
- When I get close I can turn the car over and fine tune timing to where I want it.
- Click OK and the car will revert back to my original timing map and all is good.
What I cant figure out is why the timing mark (no matter how far I advance or retard it) won't go remotely close to where it needs to be....
Any ideas?
So I have tried several times to get the timing correct.... and when I crank the car, adjust the timing on the laptop in AEM software, the timing line only stays at the bottom half of the crank pulley (meaning 180 degrees away from where I want it to be) no matter how far I retard or advance the timing on the software.
I know everything is correct and every part of the timing is at TDC (when installing the belts) and where it should be, but to get the spark timing (setting base timing to 0 degrees) through the AEM software is just flat out being a PITA....
I am honestly debating on borrowing a friends truck/trailer, and hauling it to a shop to get it running again, drive it home switch out the gas, and set the fuel map to adjust for the E85 (to save money doing it myself) and bring it back and get it re-tuned....
Has anybody set base timing through the AEM Software?
Here's my steps:
- Disable all injectors
- Crank the car to see where the timing mark is at
- adjust timing (retarding or advancing using the AEM timing setup) to get the timing back to TDC mark on the timing belt cover..
- Re-crank the car to see where it is at.
- Adjust and repeat as necessary
- When I get close I can turn the car over and fine tune timing to where I want it.
- Click OK and the car will revert back to my original timing map and all is good.
What I cant figure out is why the timing mark (no matter how far I advance or retard it) won't go remotely close to where it needs to be....
Any ideas?
sikjdm
Well-Known Member
Re: Going for a re-tune....
try a different timing light maybe? maybe the one you are using right now is messing up?
try a different timing light maybe? maybe the one you are using right now is messing up?
hotaccord243
Well-Known Member
Re: Going for a re-tune....
I've used two so far. One I borrowed from someone, and it was taking so long that I returned it to them and bought my own.....
I don't what to do it's pretty frustrating, so i'm being super lazy about it... lol
I've used two so far. One I borrowed from someone, and it was taking so long that I returned it to them and bought my own.....
I don't what to do it's pretty frustrating, so i'm being super lazy about it... lol
Re: Going for a re-tune....
When you set base ignition timing you use the marks on the crank pulley. Never seen anyone use the marks on the timing belt cover. If you look at the crank pulley on the accord you will see 4 ticks in the pulley. 3 ticks close together and 1 tick for away. The tick labels B is the 12 degrees before top dead center (the center tick) and the two other ticks around it signify the +/- 2 degrees which are within factory spec. See pic below.
What the base timing does is it syncs the motor to the ECU in terms of ignition timing. Stock ECUs are fixed in their specification, so if your timing is off and you can't twist your distributor, its time for a new ECU. But standalone ECUs are programmable. Here are the steps that you need to do to sync the AEM ecu with the motor:
1. Open up AEM Pro and get it up and running with your ECU.
2. Let the car warm up to running conditions (i.e not super cold).
3. Hook up the timing light to cylinder 1; the plug wire closest to the crank pulley (that's what the ticks are relative too).
4. Make sure that the timing light activation is at 0 (i.e there is no delay on the light).
5. Go to Configure > ECU Set up > Set Ignition...
6. A dialog box will come up with a couple options. The picture is from AEM tuner since AEM only lets up bring up the wizards when it is connected to the ECU and it is really cold outside, so this will have to do. More or less the same thing though.
7. Using the pic above as a base, set the fixed ignition timing in the text box to 12 and then check off the box to enable it. This runs the ecu in a mode where no matter what the ignition timing is 12 BTDC.
8. Using the 'retard' and 'advance' buttons get the sight on the block to line up with the mark on the crank pulley. For each adjustment with the AEM software, you should see a change with the timing light.
9. You are done as soon the middle tick lines up with the sight on the block. Make sure that you uncheck the fixed timing light and press 'OK'.
Here is a good video on how it is done:
http://www.streetfire.net/video/aem-ems-set-base-ignition-timing_727975.htm
And there you go...all done. If you don't mind could i take a look at your AEM calibration? I would like to see what the base timing is set to initially. Changing your base timing should be the first thing you do, so if you have been tuned on an inaccurate timing, added or subtracting timing via the syncing could be dangerous.
When you set base ignition timing you use the marks on the crank pulley. Never seen anyone use the marks on the timing belt cover. If you look at the crank pulley on the accord you will see 4 ticks in the pulley. 3 ticks close together and 1 tick for away. The tick labels B is the 12 degrees before top dead center (the center tick) and the two other ticks around it signify the +/- 2 degrees which are within factory spec. See pic below.
What the base timing does is it syncs the motor to the ECU in terms of ignition timing. Stock ECUs are fixed in their specification, so if your timing is off and you can't twist your distributor, its time for a new ECU. But standalone ECUs are programmable. Here are the steps that you need to do to sync the AEM ecu with the motor:
1. Open up AEM Pro and get it up and running with your ECU.
2. Let the car warm up to running conditions (i.e not super cold).
3. Hook up the timing light to cylinder 1; the plug wire closest to the crank pulley (that's what the ticks are relative too).
4. Make sure that the timing light activation is at 0 (i.e there is no delay on the light).
5. Go to Configure > ECU Set up > Set Ignition...
6. A dialog box will come up with a couple options. The picture is from AEM tuner since AEM only lets up bring up the wizards when it is connected to the ECU and it is really cold outside, so this will have to do. More or less the same thing though.
7. Using the pic above as a base, set the fixed ignition timing in the text box to 12 and then check off the box to enable it. This runs the ecu in a mode where no matter what the ignition timing is 12 BTDC.
8. Using the 'retard' and 'advance' buttons get the sight on the block to line up with the mark on the crank pulley. For each adjustment with the AEM software, you should see a change with the timing light.
9. You are done as soon the middle tick lines up with the sight on the block. Make sure that you uncheck the fixed timing light and press 'OK'.
Here is a good video on how it is done:
http://www.streetfire.net/video/aem-ems-set-base-ignition-timing_727975.htm
And there you go...all done. If you don't mind could i take a look at your AEM calibration? I would like to see what the base timing is set to initially. Changing your base timing should be the first thing you do, so if you have been tuned on an inaccurate timing, added or subtracting timing via the syncing could be dangerous.
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