Howd'y Ya'll, KC here and i modded'ddid'd my Accord

PumaFumé

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Welcome to the site

thank you..

so does anyone know any answers to my questions?

where is our fuel filter?
should i put headers on?
should i run a test pipe? or a gutted cat?

would any of these give me better gas milage?
 

DarkSideAccord

nadeshiko fobz ftw..
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You guys havent caught onto this dude yet? He's a joke and most likely a troll.

+1

seems like a lot of simple questions she is asking tht can be answered with the search function.....

dunno wat ur intentions are, but welcome btw
 

PumaFumé

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You guys havent caught onto this dude yet? He's a joke and most likely a troll.

actually you tool, my b/f introduced me to forums b/c hes part of several...and i am not nor is he a troll; and i dont have to explain anything you any of you; and im glad u make fun of others to make yourself feel better...grow up

+1

seems like a lot of simple questions she is asking tht can be answered with the search function.....

dunno wat ur intentions are, but welcome btw

actually i have searched on Honda-Tech and the results have been negligible..so i looked into an entire forum devoted to my chassis...

i know most of my answers but we make threads to get second opinions; no?

nothing nice to say, kick rocks...
 

Russianred

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How can i improve my gas mileage for the boat that i drive?

Is my ram air really not as good as my buddy turning it into a cold air? how do i make sure i dont hydro-lock my motor (THE CHEAP WAY! **** AEM's $400 bypass valve)

How can i tell if i have the better or worse of the F23 motors?

How hard is it to do a water pump and timing belt?

If i get drop springs do i need to buy camber adjusters? Do i need to upgrade the struts when i get the spring or the stock struts fine? if so which ones do ya'll suggest to buy? front & rear?

Once i get new rubbers and drop the car, do i need an alignment?

Do i need a new thermostat?

Will my car throw a code if i put in a test pipe with headers? would a gutted cat be a better idea with headers? Passing inspection is no big deal! :lolrun:

WOW! i think thats it, thank you all for reading my entire thread if you did, and if you comment ya'll will get rep'd 4sho!

thnx so much..

<3
xoxo

Hey Puma,

To improve gas mileage, you need to make sure your oil changes are good, your tires are wearing properly, and your ignition components are quality - such as wires, plugs, distributor cap, and rotor. Sea Foam probably helps a bit too with cleaning all that crap out!

As far as the cold air intake, do not worry about hydrolock unless you are crawling through rivers of floodwater. Naturally, if you go through a puddle, don't slam the gas pedal lol. If water is too deep you can turn the car off, cruise through it, then turn it on when you get out of the water. That's what I do sometimes when it floods haha. You can probably make your own bypass valve/filter for the cold air intake using some breatheable foam - it would be especially easier if your cold air intake is in 2 pieces.

There's no way to say if you have a better or worse F23. Unless you engine was seriously abused, the F23 platform is rugged and peppy throughout it's lifespan - I wouldn't worry about the engine, as much as the transmission in your case. The transmission could be a problem if you tear on it.

To do the water pump and timing belt, it's as hard as you think it is. If you have experience with engine work and you are mechanically inclined and focused, you could probably do it yourself. If you have little car experience, I would get it done professionally. A Haynes manual can help immensely as well!

I'm not sure if you need a new thermostat.. if your temperature guage overheating?

Camber kits are not needed for a spring/strut setup. They are useful for full coilover slammed setups. Once you drop the car, definitely get an alignment!

Your car will probably throw a code with a test pipe, but if inspection is not a problem then it doesn't matter. You can search for a 'defouler trick' using the search feature, that should give you an answer to clearing the code with a test pipe.

I hope this helps Puma! :thumbsup:
 

PumaFumé

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Hey Puma,

To improve gas mileage, you need to make sure your oil changes are good, your tires are wearing properly, and your ignition components are quality - such as wires, plugs, distributor cap, and rotor. Sea Foam probably helps a bit too with cleaning all that crap out!

As far as the cold air intake, do not worry about hydrolock unless you are crawling through rivers of floodwater. Naturally, if you go through a puddle, don't slam the gas pedal lol. If water is too deep you can turn the car off, cruise through it, then turn it on when you get out of the water. That's what I do sometimes when it floods haha. You can probably make your own bypass valve/filter for the cold air intake using some breatheable foam - it would be especially easier if your cold air intake is in 2 pieces.

There's no way to say if you have a better or worse F23. Unless you engine was seriously abused, the F23 platform is rugged and peppy throughout it's lifespan - I wouldn't worry about the engine, as much as the transmission in your case. The transmission could be a problem if you tear on it.

To do the water pump and timing belt, it's as hard as you think it is. If you have experience with engine work and you are mechanically inclined and focused, you could probably do it yourself. If you have little car experience, I would get it done professionally. A Haynes manual can help immensely as well!

I'm not sure if you need a new thermostat.. if your temperature guage overheating?

Camber kits are not needed for a spring/strut setup. They are useful for full coilover slammed setups. Once you drop the car, definitely get an alignment!

Your car will probably throw a code with a test pipe, but if inspection is not a problem then it doesn't matter. You can search for a 'defouler trick' using the search feature, that should give you an answer to clearing the code with a test pipe.

I hope this helps Puma! :thumbsup:


yah this helps a ton..i want to drop my car about 2'' with a Progress Suspension F&R and Tockico Blue Struts... and im going to be buying 2 new sets of tires (8 tires total) 4 15''...w/e stock size is for the accord steelies (winter wheels) 195/50/15's and something for my $ 17'' wheels..not sure on the size yet (open to any suggestions..i had low pro's but they constantly gave me blow outs..and NY has ****ty roads)...but regardless i dont want to put uneven tire wear on them...

after i put my struts and springs on and the new wheels and tires im considering putting a TL sway bar, than go get an alignment...for sure...

thanks for the comments and keep them coming
XOXO
~KC
 

Quicksilvercord

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I'd get 205/55/15 Tires for the steelies, 225/45/17 tires for the 17's. What kinda tires are you running on the 17's right now?

I would get something other than the progressive springs because they'll give your car a nasty looking boat look.

Test Pipe/Gutted pipes is worthless IMO unless your boosted then maybe, which your not. Header is worth it really....the low end torque you might loss is negotiable.

Sway Bar's a good idea too. I'd go Alignment before the bar though.
 

PumaFumé

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I'd get 205/55/15 Tires for the steelies, 225/45/17 tires for the 17's. What kinda tires are you running on the 17's right now?

I would get something other than the progressive springs because they'll give your car a nasty looking boat look.

Test Pipe/Gutted pipes is worthless IMO unless your boosted then maybe, which your not. Header is worth it really....the low end torque you might loss is negotiable.

Sway Bar's a good idea too. I'd go Alignment before the bar though.


Well i dont want that "Boat Look" but i was thinking about grinding the wishbones a lil bit.. http://6ga.accordtuner.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12121

will that be enough to cure the boat look?

and the size tires i got on the 15's now are 195/65/15 and the 17's are 205/40/17

here are wha the 17's look like.. any ideas who makes these or what their names are?
P1220050.jpg

P1220049.jpg


should i peel off those rubber guards on the fenders? front and rear?
 
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Quicksilvercord

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I don't think that will be enough to cure the boat look. I suggest getting springs that will give you an even drop such as tanabe's.
As I said before the size I posted is what I recommend.
I have no clue on the tires. Look at the tire review thread for suggestions on tires.
 
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