Infinite Bubbles!

Alpha_Onion

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I just installed my Prelude/Legend GS brake upgrade. I also swapped on some SS lines, and decided to replace my rear calipers, pads and rotors while I'm at it. Here's my problem:

I did one corner at a time, and when I was done I tightened everything up and bled the calipers. The front ones had a little bit of air, but nothing too bad. As for the rears, OH THE FUCKING REARS.

I swear I have bled them both about 30 times each, and the bubbles just keep coming. And they're not getting less and less each time either, it's consistently the same amount of air every time.

I already went around and double-checked every bolt I touched, making sure they're all super tight. I have no leaks anywhere, and I've been topping off my master cylinder between each bleed. There is no logical way that I could've had this much air in my system, or my brakes wouldn't have worked at all before I did this. So where is it coming from?

Anyone with info or suggestions, I would highly appreciate your input so I can get this solved and also not die. Thanks!
 

Alpha_Onion

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I finally tried the two-man bleeding method, and the fluid was coming out solid with no bubbles in any of the lines. Thought I fixed it. But after putting it all back together, the pedal still feels super spongy and the braking is worse now than it was stock, despite all the upgraded components. I even gave the pads and rotors ample "break-in" time and the problem continues.
 

CyrusSaurusRex

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If you have double checked your bolts and lines and they are good and snug try the fluid resevoir. Get a friend to help you do this to check if it's sealed:

Spray some Simple Green or even dish soap and water around the cap, then have your buddy press the brakes and if any bubbles form there then you know you have a leak. Try double checking the bolt connections and the bleeders with this method as well. Good luck!
 

spacemonkee23

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You can try gravity bleeding. Youtube it if you need a visual, its easy.

Basically, as usual setup a hose on the bleeder valve draining into a jar, can, or whatever you have. Make sure to leave the cap off the master, then just open the bleeder and let it come out naturally. Keep an eye on the fluid level at the master. Look to see if there are any bubbles and when its solid move to the next one. It takes a lot longer this way but it may be worth a shot. My brake manual shows the procedure as LF,RF,RR,LR not the usual furthest to closest.

Also did the system run dry when you did the calipers? you may need to bench bleed the master if the system drained completely.

Oh and just a quick FYI, the ABS module no longer needs to be bled on accords 1998 and newer, only calipers.
 
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