Valet
IS300 SX > Accord
I mean not many people get them, but its not like they're made to order like AMR's.
New Coilovers orderd
- Thread starter bwizard
- Start date
001Stunna
Well-Known Member
Cant you call them. Personally I preferr to just speak to people if they dont reply within 24hrs.Yea, they appear to be a reputible company though. I really have no idea of how hard those coils are to come by.
AMR's may be great(maybe), but 99.9% of the time they take over 6months to arrive after you pay in full. Andy in the past has had a tad of an attitude problem with customers that paid him over 1000+ but that seems to possibly have changed now(hopefully). Their open circle style lower spring seat and small 2cm bolt would suck in areas where snow/salt/deicing/rust exists, and it'd suck even more if the spring dropped down if that 2cm stud broke off.
I will admit aside from the above their quality was pretty sturdy built and the valving control made a large significant difference on every option unlike FF and/or somewhat Teins.
bwizard
Well-Known Member
bwizard
Well-Known Member
Suspension showed up today.....
Do most get a shop to handle the suspension swap? Im pretty mechanical, just dont have a spring compressor.
Do most get a shop to handle the suspension swap? Im pretty mechanical, just dont have a spring compressor.
Valet
IS300 SX > Accord
I know of an alternative, it's what I did. You'll only need it for uncompressing the stock suspension after taking it out.
Having a lift or at least 4 jack stands would help a ton too.
Having a lift or at least 4 jack stands would help a ton too.
bwizard
Well-Known Member
Ive got 4 stands and any tools I need. No compression needed to put the oem hardware back on because the springs are shorter????
Valet
IS300 SX > Accord
Exactly. Put mine in with no compressor.
The stock was done a little more dangerously but still manageable.
The stock was done a little more dangerously but still manageable.
bwizard
Well-Known Member
care to share any secrets or shall I search for such?
Valet
IS300 SX > Accord
Okay soo.
I basically took the stock struts, and tied them with chicken wire, or metal wire maybe 1/8" or less. Like from the top of the spring to the bottom so it can't uncompress. And then once you take the top hat off you have a dangerous spring. So I threw it about 15 feet in the air, it hit the driveway and exploded
Not really that bad haha you could use like tree limb clippers so you're kinda far away from it. Maybe with something over the spring to keep it from flying somewhere.
Putting in the coilovers is very straightforward
I basically took the stock struts, and tied them with chicken wire, or metal wire maybe 1/8" or less. Like from the top of the spring to the bottom so it can't uncompress. And then once you take the top hat off you have a dangerous spring. So I threw it about 15 feet in the air, it hit the driveway and exploded
Not really that bad haha you could use like tree limb clippers so you're kinda far away from it. Maybe with something over the spring to keep it from flying somewhere.
Putting in the coilovers is very straightforward
001Stunna
Well-Known Member
Suspension showed up today.....
Do most get a shop to handle the suspension swap? Im pretty mechanical, just dont have a spring compressor.
My recommendation...
-Turn all adjusting noobs full clock-wise(full stiff) until they can't go anymore.
-Once full clock-wise, back off 8 clicks counter clock wise. Use your hand to push down on the shaft on each shock(DO NOT go all the way to bare bottom) and check that all come up at roughly the same speed.
-Turn 4 more clicks clockwise(stiff) and retest. The shaft should be harder to push and will come up slower to.
-Turn 4 more(which should be full stiff now) clockwise. The shaft should be a lot harder and come up even slower.
-Adjust the lower locking collar on the front to 1"inch from the bottom from the bottom of threaded section.
-Adjust the lower locking collar on the rear to 2" from the bottom of threaded section
-For installation leave the damper control at medium(8 clicks counter clockwise from full stiff(full clockwise))
-Once all done find your preferred setting. I have mine at 2 clicks from full stuff on front and back.
-DO NOT forget that full stiff is full clock wise. NEVER TURN MORE THEN 16 clicks from it and drive the car on such setting.
Doing so ^ simply tests your dampers before you put them on the car and then risk having to take them off if something was wrong. While pushing down it should feel as a smooth movement...it shouldn't feel as if the shaft is scratching or grinding against anything. You will hear somewhat of a liquid moving noise from inside the dampers. Don't worry about it. It is the oil moving through the damper control orifice.
As for installation...
Personally i'd say if you feel uneasy at all about doing it yourself then just take it to a shop you frequent. It won't cost you any more then 100-150$ max.
If you will tackle it yourself, 2 days prior spray a lot of penetrant on the front lower fork bolts/nuts that connect it to the shock and the one that connects it to the lower arm bushing. Do the same on the rear with the stud that goes through the damper lower mount. Repeat the spraying again 1 day prior. Doing so will mean that you won't end up breaking/shearing off any bolt heads or be stuck with half things installed and half not.
Tools wise you'll need
-Pliers
-Rubber hose to put over plier prongs
-Hammer
-Metric Socket Set
-Long Ratchet or a bar to add to it to get more leverage
-Torque Wrench
-A low profile jack and/or 4 wood planks to lower the tires on as a normal jack won't be able to come off from under the car when lowered.
-2 jack stands but 4 is better
-2x Tightening Bolt style spring compressor
-Enough time and no rushing
-Silicone spray/brake cleaner/grease
-Gloves
-Stickers for extra HP when finished
-Beer
-Wife to make food/feed you as you work
-Meter tape/stick
Some tips...
-You'll need a compressor to take the tophats off the oem shocks. You can do so without one but you're risking the top hat and its contents shooting off on you...and the chance of loosing some washers/bolts. Just get the compression tool.
-When making finishing touches on the height use a meter stick or tape and measure from the ground to the edge of the fender on all corners. Make sure the tape/stick is running right in the middle of the rim.
-Take measurements on level ground.
-After each adjustment drive around a bit, or in a circle and then re-check. Do not just recheck right away.
-When tightening the middle damper bolt try to NOT spin the shaft. Use the pliers with rubber hose on the prongs to hold the shaft. DO NOT SCRATCH the shaft. Wearing a rubber glove also works and you can hold it with your hand.
Pics for your use and torque ranges for the bolts you'll have to take off...
I'd suggest using some blue loctite on the bolts for peace of mind they won't budge afterwards.
Last edited:
