New G23 Thread
- Thread starter Kid2000EX
- Start date
chomorro21
Well-Known Member
So the Vtec Oil passages are plugged up? Hmmmm hurry up and put it on so we can see the difference in power 
Kid2000EX
Well-Known Member
S-spec said:
Yeah the combustion chambers have been polished. With the chambers polished, what problems could arise? I have til Saturday to buy it so any extra info on that would be greatly appreciated.
Dealership priced valve cover and gasket set. http://www.slhondaparts.com/browse....ssions=KL&PartCatalogId=13SS00&ViewParts=true
Kid2000EX
Well-Known Member
Appreciate all who sent me a pm for a valve cover. I think I found the one I want.
Kid2000EX
Well-Known Member
Sonnick said:Says who
Maybe I exaggerated a bit
BadgerType
Resident ***hole
tuned.... on a good day... will get you 7-12 whp on your setup
with tons of dyno time
turbo will yeild close to 30whp
with tons of dyno time
turbo will yeild close to 30whp
Sonnick
Well-Known Member
7-12whp after the whole G23? I beg to differ..since tuning on just i/h/e F23 makes close to 5whp..BadgerType said:
Well, we'll see with Darkside..sorry Roy, but you are the guinea pig. Lol.
Egi7
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Okay..........Ive been getting so many pm's about G23 setups it isnt funny. So ive decided to clear a few things up about the build I was doing and G23's in general. Seems that everyone is going G23 crazy now..lol.
1. First off, throughly think about your builds. Dont rush for completion, chances are you WILL forget something. This build is a little more detailed than one may think.
2. I really wouldnt touch the head in terms of porting unless aftermarket cams had already been used and tuned to the maximum. Not saying porting is bad, but unless you know who did the work and their reputation for all you know they couldve made that head flow worse. Ive seen it happen
3. The distributor is a VERY important subject when talking G23. No matter if you are using an obd1 or obd2 dizzy, you will have to relocate the TDC and CKP sensors to the dizzy. Those sensors are found at crank on f23 motors, and if you leave them unchanged the motor will spin too fast and furbur soon after. I know I originally said that maybe you could leave them at the crank but after further research, I found that they must be relocated to the dizzy. In other words, every sensor that the dizzy you use has, NEEDS to be wired to it.
4. ECU tuning. If you plan on staying obd2 your best bet is to find a obd2b P14 ecu and leave it be. If you do plan on going obd1, I suggest you either get a obd1 p14 (if you plan to stay stock or mild), or get a chipped ECU so you can run any of the freeware software's available (ie, uberdata, crome). I have 2 basemaps optimized for the G23 non vtec 97mm stroke. This maps were created by MRX and Wikkedv16 on cb7tuner, both are EXtremely knowledgable about G hybrid and have tuned many. Remeber basemaps are tunes that are made for a specific motor, they do not count as a fully tuned setup. Uberdata and Crome only work for obd1 chippable ECU's (ie P06, P72, P75, P28, P30).
5. Automatic peps. Obd2 cars have the ECU and TCU(tranny controller) built into one unit. Obd1 cars have the ECU and TCU separate. If you want to stay obd2 get the obd2b P14 AUTO ecu, this will prob be the easiest way to go interms of getting G23 running. If you want to go obd1 you will need a obd2b to obd1 AUTO conversion harness by either boomsleg or Rywire via JKOBD "jason" and buy a obd1 auto P14 ECU with matching TCU. Those harness are very intricate and cost about $300 bucks. Its worth it if you plan on tuning your setup, if not, the obd2b p14 should be fine. Also, if you're going obd1 and you want to tune, get a obd1 AUTO ecu that has controls for the TCU (trans. control unit) like P75 or P72 not the P06. If you get any other ecu, you risk your ecu not sending the correct speed singals to the TCU and your tranny will have very sparatic gear shifts if at all.
6. Timing belt. Get a GSR timing belt. The H23 one doesnt fit that tight and will have a little slack in it. The GSR one fits tighter in which you dont run the risk of your belt jumping teeth and well .........you know what could happen.
7. Get a new head gasket, dont try to use your old one
8.You will need a H23 bracket if you want to run power steering, if not dont worry about it.
9. Get your head reworked. If you bought your head off someone or ebay, and it hasent been rebuilt since its been ran in probably someone's ragged out prelude, get a valve job and get new valves if possible. Just simple maintence goes a long way in longevity, plus its like installing a BRAND new head from the factory.
10. The f23 manifold wont work on the g23 setup, the ports are a different size and the coolant passage doesnt quite line up, which could cause a host of problems. The manifold to use the either the H23 or the f22a6, both are dual runner "IAB" manifolds and have the same port design. The h23 has the bigger plenum but the a6 has the shorter runners. the cb7guys say that the a6 runners using the h23 plenum is the best setup but who knows. the dyno differences between these to mani's on various setups are marginal at best, so either or will do the job. I had bought the a6 mani myself because I got a good deal on it and was satisfied that it would indeed do the job. Its up to you
Lastly, if you dont research and half *** your G-setup iam sure it will be horrible in terms of performance or in worst terms demise itself. I dont mean to sound harsh, and I wish everyone the best, but I sense alot of people rushing into this setup because they see that they can run H head on a F block without thinking about what all be needed maintenence wise.
Hope this helps someone
1. First off, throughly think about your builds. Dont rush for completion, chances are you WILL forget something. This build is a little more detailed than one may think.
2. I really wouldnt touch the head in terms of porting unless aftermarket cams had already been used and tuned to the maximum. Not saying porting is bad, but unless you know who did the work and their reputation for all you know they couldve made that head flow worse. Ive seen it happen
3. The distributor is a VERY important subject when talking G23. No matter if you are using an obd1 or obd2 dizzy, you will have to relocate the TDC and CKP sensors to the dizzy. Those sensors are found at crank on f23 motors, and if you leave them unchanged the motor will spin too fast and furbur soon after
. I know I originally said that maybe you could leave them at the crank but after further research, I found that they must be relocated to the dizzy. In other words, every sensor that the dizzy you use has, NEEDS to be wired to it.4. ECU tuning. If you plan on staying obd2 your best bet is to find a obd2b P14 ecu and leave it be. If you do plan on going obd1, I suggest you either get a obd1 p14 (if you plan to stay stock or mild), or get a chipped ECU so you can run any of the freeware software's available (ie, uberdata, crome). I have 2 basemaps optimized for the G23 non vtec 97mm stroke. This maps were created by MRX and Wikkedv16 on cb7tuner, both are EXtremely knowledgable about G hybrid and have tuned many. Remeber basemaps are tunes that are made for a specific motor, they do not count as a fully tuned setup. Uberdata and Crome only work for obd1 chippable ECU's (ie P06, P72, P75, P28, P30).
5. Automatic peps. Obd2 cars have the ECU and TCU(tranny controller) built into one unit. Obd1 cars have the ECU and TCU separate. If you want to stay obd2 get the obd2b P14 AUTO ecu, this will prob be the easiest way to go interms of getting G23 running. If you want to go obd1 you will need a obd2b to obd1 AUTO conversion harness by either boomsleg or Rywire via JKOBD "jason" and buy a obd1 auto P14 ECU with matching TCU. Those harness are very intricate and cost about $300 bucks. Its worth it if you plan on tuning your setup, if not, the obd2b p14 should be fine. Also, if you're going obd1 and you want to tune, get a obd1 AUTO ecu that has controls for the TCU (trans. control unit) like P75 or P72 not the P06. If you get any other ecu, you risk your ecu not sending the correct speed singals to the TCU and your tranny will have very sparatic gear shifts if at all.
6. Timing belt. Get a GSR timing belt. The H23 one doesnt fit that tight and will have a little slack in it. The GSR one fits tighter in which you dont run the risk of your belt jumping teeth and well .........you know what could happen.
7. Get a new head gasket, dont try to use your old one
8.You will need a H23 bracket if you want to run power steering, if not dont worry about it.
9. Get your head reworked. If you bought your head off someone or ebay, and it hasent been rebuilt since its been ran in probably someone's ragged out prelude, get a valve job and get new valves if possible. Just simple maintence goes a long way in longevity, plus its like installing a BRAND new head from the factory.
10. The f23 manifold wont work on the g23 setup, the ports are a different size and the coolant passage doesnt quite line up, which could cause a host of problems. The manifold to use the either the H23 or the f22a6, both are dual runner "IAB" manifolds and have the same port design. The h23 has the bigger plenum but the a6 has the shorter runners. the cb7guys say that the a6 runners using the h23 plenum is the best setup but who knows. the dyno differences between these to mani's on various setups are marginal at best, so either or will do the job. I had bought the a6 mani myself because I got a good deal on it and was satisfied that it would indeed do the job. Its up to you
Lastly, if you dont research and half *** your G-setup iam sure it will be horrible in terms of performance or in worst terms demise itself. I dont mean to sound harsh, and I wish everyone the best, but I sense alot of people rushing into this setup because they see that they can run H head on a F block without thinking about what all be needed maintenence wise.
Hope this helps someone
Last edited:
BadgerType
Resident ***hole
finnally, some else says tht its not tht easy. everything he has said is correct to my knowledge
1. every one better plan out theyre whole build process. it took me 2wks to figure out all the parts and price list before i started spending money
2. egi7 is right on the money with this one. like any budget turbo project, start at a base and work your way up from theyre. get the whole setup running together, then upgrade. it may take longer, but the more things new to your setup, the more chances of problems
3. i didnt know abt this, but very important indeed. mind me asking where u found this at?
4. like 2, start at obd2 if your budgeting this, then upgrade(if possible) to obd-i.
5. obd-ii is the best bet if your in this situation. if your not wiling to get a manny, then stay obd-ii. again less changes = less problems
6. i have heard abt this and thank you for bringing this up. have you read anything abt underdrive crank pulleys and theyre size belts?
7. new everything should be used when swapping out the head. gaskets, belts and whatnot. NEVER SKIMP OUT ON MOTOR PARTS
excelent point. the reason no one has done this yet is because its difficult.
1. every one better plan out theyre whole build process. it took me 2wks to figure out all the parts and price list before i started spending money
2. egi7 is right on the money with this one. like any budget turbo project, start at a base and work your way up from theyre. get the whole setup running together, then upgrade. it may take longer, but the more things new to your setup, the more chances of problems
3. i didnt know abt this, but very important indeed. mind me asking where u found this at?
4. like 2, start at obd2 if your budgeting this, then upgrade(if possible) to obd-i.
5. obd-ii is the best bet if your in this situation. if your not wiling to get a manny, then stay obd-ii. again less changes = less problems
6. i have heard abt this and thank you for bringing this up. have you read anything abt underdrive crank pulleys and theyre size belts?
7. new everything should be used when swapping out the head. gaskets, belts and whatnot. NEVER SKIMP OUT ON MOTOR PARTS
excelent point. the reason no one has done this yet is because its difficult.
