OBD 2 computers?

[6thgennoobie]

So correct me if I am wrong, but my most viable options for the price will be h22a4 with an obd2 prelude computer. The other options would be to boost convert to obd 1 than come inspection time just open the wastegate so no boost builds and put it back to obd 2and change back I believe the intake temp sensor and dizzy(if going with the f22 head)?

 

[Tphong]

Actually there is an s300 obd2 ecu from Hondata that has the capabilities to be tuned.....they added an adaptor to an obd1 p28/72 ecu to connect either obd2a/b harness......cost for it is about 900 if im not mistaken, so OP if you choose to stay obd2 this might be one of many other options

It's still an OBD 1 ecu. He's asking if there are ways for him to keep his car obd2 during inspection times.

 

[akoutmos]

The only way to keep the car OBD2 capable during emissions times is to have an OBD2 Honda ECU. From what i remember and from what i read, the OBD2 prelude ECUs had an immobilizer, which is annoying to get rid of when swapping (not impossible though), except for one year (see quote).

I'm confused, do you want to go boost, or swap, or both?

From http://importnut.net/h22a_swap.htm

This was the only 4th generation prelude that had an OBDII engine computer. This makes the '96 ECU a very desirable ECU for H22a swaps into OBDII accords. In '97, Honda incorporated a theft deterrent immobilizer system that makes using '97-'99 ECU's much more difficult.

 

[2002CG3coupe]

I already understand its an obd1 ecu, but I guess I see what you guys are saying. Even tho it may have the adapter on to the ecu, it will still read obd1 dtc/cel codes right???

 

[6thgennoobie]

The only way to keep the car OBD2 capable during emissions times is to have an OBD2 Honda ECU. From what i remember and from what i read, the OBD2 prelude ECUs had an immobilizer, which is annoying to get rid of when swapping (not impossible though), except for one year (see quote).

I'm confused, do you want to go boost, or swap, or both?

From http://importnut.net/h22a_swap.htm

Thanks for the site was informative. I would either be doing h22 or boost. If I went boost I was trying to find more info about the f22 head conversion if that needed a obd 1 conversion or if it could run off the accord computer. The other thing was if I do boost from what I am reading if I was going to get it expected I could just flip it back to obd 2 open the waste gate and change the iat sensor when going to get my sticker. Does that make sense?

 

[Valet]

The only way to keep the car OBD2 capable during emissions times is to have an OBD2 Honda ECU. From what i remember and from what i read, the OBD2 pre

Thanks for the site was informative. I would either be doing h22 or boost. If I went boost I was trying to find more info about the f22 head conversion if that needed a obd 1 conversion or if it could run off the accord computer. The other thing was if I do boost from what I am reading if I was going to get it expected I could just flip it back to obd 2 open the waste gate and change the iat sensor when going to get my sticker. Does that make sense?

Yeah I've heard you can do that. But when doing boost or anything really your tuning, at least in these cars, are going to be highly limited with obd2.

 

[akoutmos]

There are 2 things you can do to pass emissions.

1. Run a piggy back ECU to tune with. At least with the AEM FIC, you can retard ignition timing based on when the stock ECU fires the plug (no ignition timing advancement unless you turn the distributor to induce an advanced state across the map), modify the duty cycle of the injectors (can run essentially any injector you want since duty cycle is adjustable), have a 10+ psi capable map sensor, and modify the O2 signal to the OEM ecu. By using a fully functional piggy back like the FIC you can pass emissions and run a fairly nice setup. Problem is finding someone capable of tuning this, and dealing with the tricking of the stock ECU voltages.

2. Run any programmable ECU you want and swap out everything that is related to the control of the motor when ever emissions time comes around. Open up the wastegate and make sure the cat is on there. Gotta change injectors, O2 sensor wiring (if you wired a wideband on pin C16 on the ECU which was the original narrow band line [depends on which pin the ECU uses for the wideband]). Then pass the motor through with no check engine lights


It also depends on what your state requires. In NY and CT at least, if your ECU cannot interface with the OBD2 system that the emissions shop has, instant fail. They don't even do sniffer tests anymore (the last couple times i've gone), just OBD2 scanning.

 

[6thgennoobie]

There are 2 things you can do to pass emissions.

1. Run a piggy back ECU to tune with. At least with the AEM FIC, you can retard ignition timing based on when the stock ECU fires the plug (no ignition timing advancement unless you turn the distributor to induce an advanced state across the map), modify the duty cycle of the injectors (can run essentially any injector you want since duty cycle is adjustable), have a 10+ psi capable map sensor, and modify the O2 signal to the OEM ecu. By using a fully functional piggy back like the FIC you can pass emissions and run a fairly nice setup. Problem is finding someone capable of tuning this, and dealing with the tricking of the stock ECU voltages.

2. Run any programmable ECU you want and swap out everything that is related to the control of the motor when ever emissions time comes around. Open up the wastegate and make sure the cat is on there. Gotta change injectors, O2 sensor wiring (if you wired a wideband on pin C16 on the ECU which was the original narrow band line [depends on which pin the ECU uses for the wideband]). Then pass the motor through with no check engine lights


It also depends on what your state requires. In NY and CT at least, if your ECU cannot interface with the OBD2 system that the emissions shop has, instant fail. They don't even do sniffer tests anymore (the last couple times i've gone), just OBD2 scanning.

I was looking at option 2. Around here they do not do a sniff test. They just plug in, so just revert everything back shouldn't take but a couple hours than boost it back up after. I guess now I need to start searching for turbo parts