Sorry to revive this thread up again, but for those that did attempt in upgrading their rear sway bar and got to a dead end of getting the end links off...This is for you guys. Thanks to 6thGenAccord member "toast" for his DIY O4-07 Acura TL Manual Trans rear swaybar install thread. Please refer to his thread for further details of installation. And this is also for those in the future who might end up upgrading their rear sway bar. When i came across of unbolting the nut off the endlinks, I noticed they were rusted and got stuck at a certain point. And when using my Allen wrench, I ended up stripping the tool and the casing it sat in. So the only solution i could think of was just to cut the nuts off the screw with a high speed dremel or cut off wheel (a dremel is a better choice due to the tight clearance under the rear suspension).
But please view the pics below. (I am not responsible for you or your choice in performing this method! So please use this method at your own risk. And remember, SAFETY COMES FIRST. Please use eye protection and dust mask)
So basically the tools i used were,
-Corded Dremel w/ carbon cutoff disk (dont use the cordless, it doesn't last long and consist of recharging)
-Flat head screwdriver
-Vice Grip Pliers
-Needle Nose Pliers
-14mm Wrench
-Allen Wrench
What I started out with
Moog Endlinkss
So i started off working on the Driver side of the Rear Sway Bar, but then I ended stripping my Allen wrench tool.
After attempting the Driver side, I tried the Passenger side. I got the nut to come loose till it got stuck half way and my Allen wrench began stripping/slipping again as the Driver Side.
I gave up at this point.
I pulled out my cordless dremel to do a test on a bolt. I was testing to see if my dremel was strong enough to cut a regular metal bolt, But unfortunately it didnt have the strength and power.
So after attempting to get the nut off one last time, I just went ahead and used the corded dremel to cut the nut off. When cutting, must cut the bolt and nut in several sections, use different possible angles and work your way around. Your only trying to cut a slit on the side of the nut to pry it off. You must have a steady hand and have patience. And remember not to overcut past the nut or else you end up cutting the armplate it sits on. And this is the aftermath.
The idea behind this is to cut as close as possible in the middle of the bolt/nut. It must be symmetrically in the middle so you can pry it off like I did. See the image below. If you aren't confident, ask someone you trust and who has experience to do so.
This is the reason why i had to change my rear sway bar out, the passenger side endlink had collapsed out of the boot.
-
But please view the pics below. (I am not responsible for you or your choice in performing this method! So please use this method at your own risk. And remember, SAFETY COMES FIRST. Please use eye protection and dust mask)
So basically the tools i used were,
-Corded Dremel w/ carbon cutoff disk (dont use the cordless, it doesn't last long and consist of recharging)
-Flat head screwdriver
-Vice Grip Pliers
-Needle Nose Pliers
-14mm Wrench
-Allen Wrench
What I started out with
Moog Endlinkss
So i started off working on the Driver side of the Rear Sway Bar, but then I ended stripping my Allen wrench tool.
After attempting the Driver side, I tried the Passenger side. I got the nut to come loose till it got stuck half way and my Allen wrench began stripping/slipping again as the Driver Side.
I gave up at this point.
I pulled out my cordless dremel to do a test on a bolt. I was testing to see if my dremel was strong enough to cut a regular metal bolt, But unfortunately it didnt have the strength and power.
So after attempting to get the nut off one last time, I just went ahead and used the corded dremel to cut the nut off. When cutting, must cut the bolt and nut in several sections, use different possible angles and work your way around. Your only trying to cut a slit on the side of the nut to pry it off. You must have a steady hand and have patience. And remember not to overcut past the nut or else you end up cutting the armplate it sits on. And this is the aftermath.
The idea behind this is to cut as close as possible in the middle of the bolt/nut. It must be symmetrically in the middle so you can pry it off like I did. See the image below. If you aren't confident, ask someone you trust and who has experience to do so.
This is the reason why i had to change my rear sway bar out, the passenger side endlink had collapsed out of the boot.
-
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