Recommendations

[tnguyen600]

Just got them today and right now I'm letting the rotors cool down. I should be able to put them on either tomorrow evening or friday afternoon...depends on the weather.

 

[01ULEVTW]

Just got them today and right now I'm letting the rotors cool down. I should be able to put them on either tomorrow evening or friday afternoon...depends on the weather.

Damn man, props for that work. I definitely wouldn't try this.

 

[turbo_911]

nice, but why did you put them in the oven? that's the first time i see/hear someone do that...

 

[CrosCntryAccord]

you heat them up to get them prep'd for duty, there was mention of it elsewhere in this thread

 

[turbo_911]

you heat them up to get them prep'd for duty, there was mention of it elsewhere in this thread

does it says in the instructions that came with brembo rotors? i don't think so...
in every shop when they get rotors, they just put them on and go drive...

 

[CrosCntryAccord]

HPS don't make too much noise or dust compaired to the HP+, but they do make a tad bit more noise and dust than OEM... but that is because there is more friction generated.

Just make sure that you follow the proper bedding instructions... HOWEVER...

Remember that your brake rotor itself needs to be broken in before you do any **aggressive braking**. There are two ways of doing this:

Light Braking from 50 - 60mph down to 20mph, about 10 times... like I said... LIGHTLY... you want to heat the rotor without "shocking" / Stressing it.

OR

Putting your Brake Rotors in the OVEN (when cold), then turning on the Oven to 400 degrees F, and then allowing them to cool.

After thats done, you will need to use **light braking** for about 400 miles on your rotors before you start the Bedding Process for the HPS Brake Pads.

This will avoid warping and cracking. Remember that after you've done the Bedding Procedure (for initial rotor heating or hawk bedding) to bring the car to a stop but for the last 2 or 3mph don't use the brakes, just let the car roll to a stop. Bringing the car to a full complete stop using the brakes (eg stopping at a stop sign or red light) causes deposits to stick to the pad and increases the chance of a vibration.



Note: I personally install new rotors and use old pads (sanded flat with sandpaper and a table / flat part of driveway or steps) to brake in my rotors after baking them in the oven. I do this though because I am staying with the same pad (Hawk HP+), which are almost useless until you properly brake them in, which you can't do with brand new rotors, since it requires a REALLY Aggressive brake in, which will stress a new rotor.

The reason you need to put some milage on the rotors is because you need to not only heat cycle them, but also to remove the highs and lows on the rotor surface so that the pad has full full full contact when you start the bedding procedure.

You know some rotors come coated black or gold... you will want to do enough braking (remember lightly) to wear it off of the rotor completely.

Think of it like shaving with a razor or a meat cleaver. Sure you could just slam on the brakes real hard and remove the coating in one quick movement... but the instant heating of the rotor might cause it to warp... just like the cleaver might cut into your jugular.

Install the Rotors and Pad on one weekend, drive steady for a week, and the next weekend brake in your pads.

does it says in the instructions that came with brembo rotors? i don't think so...
in every shop when they get rotors, they just put them on and go drive...

every shop? apparently not....

 

[sodaks2k]

That's what my oven looked like last night, too, except I had them upside down (compared to yours) in case the grates created "hot spots" on the rotor.

 

[Fuzz]

does it says in the instructions that came with brembo rotors? i don't think so...
in every shop when they get rotors, they just put them on and go drive...

Yep. And when I was working at Midas that is what I used to do also. BUT, here is the big difference. He has bought performance pads with the intention of USING THEM. (eg Hard Braking on a Constant Basis).

When you are going to be using performance oriented parts its always good to follow the recommended procedures and THEN SOME to insure that your parts work 100% as advertised and designed, and eliminates headaches.

You don't have to put your Rotors in the oven, in fact when I started installing performance brakes on my cars I never did, but after reading a lot I liked the fact that I could perform a perfect - even heat cycle by using the OVEN rather than the brakes.

Does it really make a difference... I don't know, but I do know that it takes no time, since most people work on the car on the weekend and receive their parts during the week.

As for the rotor being in direct contact with the grill, it won't make any hot spots and the temp. in the oven is way way way below the temp that the brakes might start to warp. Hot Spots on Rotors are actually caused by standing on the brakes when they are hot.

One of the biggest mistakes people make (on the road or on the track) is after a hard braking session, they will use the brakes to stop the car and then stand on them. What happens is you now have a hot pad and rotor that ISN'T turning and that is what creates "Hot Spots".

Whenever we get off the track (or bedding the brakes, since its the same temp) we stop the car using the brakes until about 1 or 2mph and then coast... then I throw the car in 1st and turn off the engine, let the clutch out and the car gets held in place by the transmission rather than the brakes.

I've seen a lot of people get off the track, stop their car, stand on the brakes, PUT ON THEIR E Brake, and then they come in after 2 laps saying there is a problem with their brakes... no ****, they let a hot braking system develop a nice hot spot / pad deposit / warped rotor by having the pads compressed againsted the rotor in a single spot.

Let me know how the bedding goes and how the brakes work. Enjoy!