twokAccord
Well-Known Member
Re: Steverino's Road Race Build Thread (Road to CSCS)
Niceee
Good Luck!
Niceee
Good Luck!
Steverino's Road Race Build Thread (Road to CSCS) - Updated almost Daily!!
- Thread starter Steverino
- Start date
Re: Steverino's Road Race Build Thread (Road to CSCS)
Steve, would you mind us listing your story on our website? If you dont mind please shoot me an email [email protected]; As an KTeller exhaust user, I would like to promote your story to others.
- Mike
Steve, would you mind us listing your story on our website? If you dont mind please shoot me an email [email protected]; As an KTeller exhaust user, I would like to promote your story to others.
- Mike
SykVSyx
Well-Known Member
Re: Steverino's Road Race Build Thread (Road to CSCS)
Oh yes.....Canada is GOING to be respected up in here!!!!
I know who's who in that picture!
Glad to see the project coming along though, wish I got to see the car before the tear down.
Oh yes.....Canada is GOING to be respected up in here!!!!
I know who's who in that picture!
Glad to see the project coming along though, wish I got to see the car before the tear down.
Steverino
Well-Known Member
Re: Steverino's Road Race Build Thread (Road to CSCS)
Here's another update:
We arrived at the shop to the sight of a some-what large pool of oil. In all our infinite wisdom, when we drained the oil, we left the plug in the pan and didn't plug it up, so while the engine was on the hoist, it was slowly dripping oil and there was oil all over the floor.
Don't worry, we got it cleaned up with some Kitty Litter. YEAAAHHH
We started work on the interior by first fishing out the bigass 0 gauge power wire for the battery location that was done a few years ago. You NEED a 0 gauge wire to take into account in-line resistive losses for DC currents. For those who haven't dealt with 0 gauge wire, it's heavy and dense as hell. Here are a couple of pictures to show just how big the wire was:
We'll be re-using some of that but locating the battery in the front passenger foot-well this time, using way less wire.
Next came out the battery and battery tray. We found a nice surprise when we removed the battery tray though:
Yup that's mold, I think. Anyway good thing the carpet is coming out!!
In addition to the battery tray, we also found something else while cleaning the interior . . . . :jarred:
Some in-progress pictures:
Some of the stuff that was removed (center console has to be put back in as per CSCS Street Class regulations)
Also way back we did a center console height reduction. Because I was using Bride seats and super low rails, the center console lid kept interfering with shifting. So instead of removing the center console entirely and having the interior look perennially ****ty, we cut it down, remolded and repainted the console:
Interior stripped:
And then poof!! The carpet was out. I don't know if it's because it's an Accord and it's supposed to have some semblance of comfort, but the carpet alone was quite thick and at least 25lbs.
We didn't get as far as we hoped to last night, mostly due to a local joint serving some half-price pasta around the corner (it was pretty damn good pasta actually). Carb overload and associated "-itis" took over and we called it an early night.
Here are some pictures of some "bonus" items we found:
Here's another update:
We arrived at the shop to the sight of a some-what large pool of oil. In all our infinite wisdom, when we drained the oil, we left the plug in the pan and didn't plug it up, so while the engine was on the hoist, it was slowly dripping oil and there was oil all over the floor.
Don't worry, we got it cleaned up with some Kitty Litter. YEAAAHHH
We started work on the interior by first fishing out the bigass 0 gauge power wire for the battery location that was done a few years ago. You NEED a 0 gauge wire to take into account in-line resistive losses for DC currents. For those who haven't dealt with 0 gauge wire, it's heavy and dense as hell. Here are a couple of pictures to show just how big the wire was:
We'll be re-using some of that but locating the battery in the front passenger foot-well this time, using way less wire.
Next came out the battery and battery tray. We found a nice surprise when we removed the battery tray though:
Yup that's mold, I think. Anyway good thing the carpet is coming out!!
In addition to the battery tray, we also found something else while cleaning the interior . . . . :jarred:
Some in-progress pictures:
Some of the stuff that was removed (center console has to be put back in as per CSCS Street Class regulations)
Also way back we did a center console height reduction. Because I was using Bride seats and super low rails, the center console lid kept interfering with shifting. So instead of removing the center console entirely and having the interior look perennially ****ty, we cut it down, remolded and repainted the console:
Interior stripped:
And then poof!! The carpet was out. I don't know if it's because it's an Accord and it's supposed to have some semblance of comfort, but the carpet alone was quite thick and at least 25lbs.
We didn't get as far as we hoped to last night, mostly due to a local joint serving some half-price pasta around the corner (it was pretty damn good pasta actually). Carb overload and associated "-itis" took over and we called it an early night.
Here are some pictures of some "bonus" items we found:
hancockd
SLO CG2
Re: Steverino's Road Race Build Thread (Road to CSCS)
Don't think I've ever found a bullet in my car
Don't think I've ever found a bullet in my car
Steverino
Well-Known Member
Re: Steverino's Road Race Build Thread (Road to CSCS)
I took some pictures of how the engine sits now as well as the removed engine harness so you guys can see just how piss-poor Honda's harness is:
The engine/transmission will be totally degreased and cleaned before re-installing back into the car.
Harness:
A lot of electrical tape used through-out.
The plan with the harness is to completely de-loom it, remove the automatic transmission wires. I'm currently torn between re-looming it with F6 braided wrap-around sleeving or 4:1 shrink tubing through-out.
F6:
4:1 shrink tubing:
The F6 will be much more easy to install because it's essentially a split-open wire loom with 25% overlap, but it's not flame-retardant like the shrink tubing. My primary concern with the shrink tubing is its size (maximum available size is 1.5") and its ability to slip over the pre-existing connectors. I am not rebuilding the harness so the connectors are going to remain un-cut.
Both are equally chemical and UV resistant and has similar operating temperatures:
-40°F to 257°F for the F6
-67°F to 276°F for the shrink tubing
I'll measure some of the connectors tonight and make a decision then.
I took some pictures of how the engine sits now as well as the removed engine harness so you guys can see just how piss-poor Honda's harness is:
The engine/transmission will be totally degreased and cleaned before re-installing back into the car.
Harness:
A lot of electrical tape used through-out.
The plan with the harness is to completely de-loom it, remove the automatic transmission wires. I'm currently torn between re-looming it with F6 braided wrap-around sleeving or 4:1 shrink tubing through-out.
F6:
4:1 shrink tubing:
The F6 will be much more easy to install because it's essentially a split-open wire loom with 25% overlap, but it's not flame-retardant like the shrink tubing. My primary concern with the shrink tubing is its size (maximum available size is 1.5") and its ability to slip over the pre-existing connectors. I am not rebuilding the harness so the connectors are going to remain un-cut.
Both are equally chemical and UV resistant and has similar operating temperatures:
-40°F to 257°F for the F6
-67°F to 276°F for the shrink tubing
I'll measure some of the connectors tonight and make a decision then.
98ExAccordwv
I'm Old
Steve, I know you said you're not rebuilding the harness, but just a suggestion since this will be a race car. Have you thought about doing a connector like this to make pulling the motor easier in the event of a problem?
Steverino
Well-Known Member
Steve, I know you said you're not rebuilding the harness, but just a suggestion since this will be a race car. Have you thought about doing a connector like this to make pulling the motor easier in the event of a problem?
Yes I've definitely considered this already, but in actual fact, the engine harness wasn't hard to disconnect from the body of the car. The harness is held in place by a grommet that's loosened by 2 nuts, once the grommet comes out, the harness can be fished out in about 3 minutes.
The Mil-spec disconnect is more for show than functionality. I honestly can't think of a scenario where I'd want to remove the engine harness in under a minute. . .
What WOULD be nice is those custom sensor labels though. Thinking about these. . . .
russiansohcf23
Well-Known Member
Wow this thread is full of win!
