ive used second skin DP and i can say it was worth it=) only thing is i bought more than i needed lol. never really had time to do the car yet. just the trunk, and doors. gonna work on the quarter panels this summer=)
the deal with sound deadeners
- Thread starter ryan s
- Start date
ericthecheat
Well-Known Member
Ryan,
We've talked about this in different forms and I've looked at some great posts on diyma, but I can't find any good place to figure out how to apply the entire system. For how great Don's site is at informing the public about sound deadening, it is equally TERRIBLE at instructing a customer on how to apply the entire array of products to a part of a car. I want to go balls-to-the-wall with deadening my trunk, doors, and wheel wells. I'm talking using CLD, CCF, and MLV in each area. It's obvious that there will be difficulties in applying all three products to each particular section and I haven't found any good sources that tell me how to apply his system to, say, a trunk. Any links, tips, instrunctions, diy's would be helpful!
We've talked about this in different forms and I've looked at some great posts on diyma, but I can't find any good place to figure out how to apply the entire system. For how great Don's site is at informing the public about sound deadening, it is equally TERRIBLE at instructing a customer on how to apply the entire array of products to a part of a car. I want to go balls-to-the-wall with deadening my trunk, doors, and wheel wells. I'm talking using CLD, CCF, and MLV in each area. It's obvious that there will be difficulties in applying all three products to each particular section and I haven't found any good sources that tell me how to apply his system to, say, a trunk. Any links, tips, instrunctions, diy's would be helpful!
ryan s
they dont think it
basically...
the CLD goes on panels that vibrate/reverberate. the "tap test" will show what needs a vibration dampener. the bigger the area, the flatter the area, the more it vibrates. the doors, for instance, are just a huge flat piece of metal. i do believe in the 25% coverage rule, but i think the front doors are the place to really go full out especially to seal them...if your speakers are there.
parts that are curved need less or no deadener. if its a larger area that fails the tap test, then apply some CLD. making a car look like the inside of a tin foil hat is really unnecessary as are like 3 layers of deadener. if you have a rattle that serious, time to break out the welder and some angle iron
dynamat doesn't block noise.
the CCF goes on next. its function is to decouple the MLV and provide a "springiness" to the MLV. CCF is also used behind panels or trim pieces to stop rattles.
then the MLV layer is last. this is the "noise blocker" that keeps out road noise. it needs to be (ideally) a single layer, unbroken, or properly joined. it goes on the floor, in the doors, and on the rear wheel wells in the trunk.
i really dont know why people always take so much time/effort/material to deaden their spare tire well, especially when the spare tire is still in there and secured down. the rubber is its own dampener. so much more noise is let in through the wheel wells. it gives me a at least.
the CLD goes on panels that vibrate/reverberate. the "tap test" will show what needs a vibration dampener. the bigger the area, the flatter the area, the more it vibrates. the doors, for instance, are just a huge flat piece of metal. i do believe in the 25% coverage rule, but i think the front doors are the place to really go full out especially to seal them...if your speakers are there.
parts that are curved need less or no deadener. if its a larger area that fails the tap test, then apply some CLD. making a car look like the inside of a tin foil hat is really unnecessary as are like 3 layers of deadener. if you have a rattle that serious, time to break out the welder and some angle iron
dynamat doesn't block noise.the CCF goes on next. its function is to decouple the MLV and provide a "springiness" to the MLV. CCF is also used behind panels or trim pieces to stop rattles.
then the MLV layer is last. this is the "noise blocker" that keeps out road noise. it needs to be (ideally) a single layer, unbroken, or properly joined. it goes on the floor, in the doors, and on the rear wheel wells in the trunk.
i really dont know why people always take so much time/effort/material to deaden their spare tire well, especially when the spare tire is still in there and secured down. the rubber is its own dampener. so much more noise is let in through the wheel wells. it gives me a
at least.v6nighthawk00
Member
Great info!
But in regards to the 25% coverage.....isn't covering 6 inches of a 12 inch square 50% coverage?
But in regards to the 25% coverage.....isn't covering 6 inches of a 12 inch square 50% coverage?
Wildman
Read the rules
uh... it's surface area. surface area of a 6" square (6x6=36) is 25% of the surface area of a 12" square (12x12=144)
36/144=0.25
ryan s
they dont think it
cody you beat me to it while i was second guessing my math 
Wildman
Read the rules
cody you beat me to it while i was second guessing my math
haha, i used the windows calculator to double check too. but still... not understanding surface area is a pretty big fail haha
ryan s
they dont think it
pretty sure it was 3rd grade, right after learning the multiplication flash cards
well since you all know what kind of car I drive, haha, does dynamat/fatmat stuff actually make the car quieter inside when driving? id like to be able to focus more on music without interfering sound, or have a quiet conversation in the car.
what are the best places to put in the sound dampening material???
what are the best places to put in the sound dampening material???
