98ACCORDLXSD
Well-Known Member
so, am i still gonna be teh lone 6th gen G23 krew?
Nah I'm doing this over the Winter. Cleaning the head tomorrow and gathering the rest of the parts. Trying to find a spare F23 to use though.
the OFFICIAL G23 swap parts list
- Thread starter DarkSideAccord
- Start date
Nah I'm doing this over the Winter. Cleaning the head tomorrow and gathering the rest of the parts. Trying to find a spare F23 to use though.
Fuzz
Well-Known Member
I just blew up my H23. Spun Bearing. only had like 1000 miles on it (400 track) lol
Time to go G. now do I go for k20 piston or not.
Time to go G. now do I go for k20 piston or not.
nyknick1015
Well-Known Member
according to HTuner, k20 pistions offer better/higher compression for more power
Fuzz
Well-Known Member
I need to do some research though. I'm using the stock H23 head and in one write up the chamber needed to get enlarged. I think that was with H22 pistons so I need to find out if I would need to do the same with k20.
I'm not modifying the head at all with the exception of maybe cams. I also don't want crazy compression. I might go boost.
Man... I hate track cars
I'm not modifying the head at all with the exception of maybe cams. I also don't want crazy compression. I might go boost.
Man... I hate track cars
BlkCurrantKord
Super Moderator
K20's and F23's are 86mm bore. If you're using the F23 block, you're gonna want a slight oversize to compensate for wear. F23/H23 heads have the same size combustion chamber.
If you're considering going boost, then get a lower compression piston. A stock K20 or even an off the shelf N/A K20 piston is going to push you close to 11:1 compression.
If you're considering going boost, then get a lower compression piston. A stock K20 or even an off the shelf N/A K20 piston is going to push you close to 11:1 compression.
Fuzz
Well-Known Member
My biggest problem right now is that I just want to get the motor out, fixed and in. I don't know the condition of my old F block, it should be good, but if it needs to get honed and new rings then I need to make a trip down to Overbore in NY because I don't know anybody in Montreal that can do it properly.
I'm not driving the car for winter, but I still want to have an engine in the chassis. If there was room at the shop for my car then I would just leave it in the corner and the engine on the stand next to it just begging... problem is that its stacked full with winter tires (gotta love winter).
I'm not driving the car for winter, but I still want to have an engine in the chassis. If there was room at the shop for my car then I would just leave it in the corner and the engine on the stand next to it just begging... problem is that its stacked full with winter tires (gotta love winter).
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idriveanaccord
Well-Known Member
so when i go to buy the belt what do i ask for? a thinner GSR belt?
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
So let me getthis straight, In order for the G swap to work, i need to do an OBDI conversion, and if I do the OBDI conversion the im at risk of failing emission tests?
not a risk,but more like a 100% fail..Unless you pay somebody to pass you or you got a hookup
swaping to obd1 will enable our obd2 ports they plug into for the test,causing fail to pass.
Mike's_Taffeta
Well-Known Member
I have the same question about the belt. What exactly did you use for the t belt? Part number? And is it absolutely necessary to go obd1 with this?
