First of all I want to give credit where it's due. I've been lurking for a pretty long time, and ALL of my knowledge has come from the helpful and knowledgeable members here on 6GA as well as V6P. I've spent countless hours reading through threads by Richie v6, MikeyMike, ComptechV6, 99cfenvyv6, RedRyder, and others, and all I'm trying to do is compile the info into one useful thread.
I know that Richie and RedRyder just completed this swap and are working on a comprehensive How-To guide, but I just happen to be in the midst of this swap myself, and I don't know how long I can wait for their guide or if it will have the details that I hope to gain from this thread
Anyway, this thread is a work in progress, and I will edit the thread for accuracy as I receive replies. I will go ahead and share what I know, and hope that some other guys who've completed the swap can chime in to fill in the blanks that I have. I've come across several parts lists before, but I haven't found one comprehensive list of parts that will work for the swap, along with
what cars they can come FROM. I mean, this would be a helluva lot easier if I had a donor CL-S chillin in my back yard, but I don't, and I'm trying to figure out how to round up this huge list of parts as cheaply as possible. The parts that I need help with will be marked in
Red. So without further adieu, here is my (incomplete) list with as much detail as I can muster:
J32A2 Engine from:
01-03 CL-S
02-03 TL-S
6-Speed Transmission from:
03 CL-S (Has LSD)
04-06 TL (Has LSD)
03-07 Accord (No LSD, but CAN be added)
ECU: from:
02-03 CL-S, 03 TL-S - Part# 37820-PGE-A62
02 TL-S - Part# 37820-PXG-A52
01 CL-S - Part# 37820-PGE-A55
Is there any difference in performance between these ECU's?
Engine Wiring Harness:
The 01-03 CL-S Auto and 02-03 TL-S Auto use the exact same Engine Wiring Harness.
Part# 32110-PGE-A50
Richie's Harness
If you're not using a 2003 Acura CL-S engine that originally had a 6-Speed, then you WILL need Richie's Harness. Otherwise the ECU will not communicate properly with the engine/transmission, and will go into limp mode. You'll have a lower max RPM, no VTEC, no reverse lights, and a non functional speedometer.
Clutch, Flywheel, Pressure Plate
Any combination of clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate from any of the above listed compatible transmissions will work. They're interchangeable. The only difference is that the CL-S flywheel has a sensor on it.
Motor Mounts
The existing Accord mounts will work, but will probably be torn apart before long. CL-S mounts will fit, and are stronger. Innovative makes even tougher motor mounts, but at the cost of more vibration.
Transmission Mounts
The CL-S mounts will work.
Front - Part# 50805-S3M-A03
Rear - Part# 50806-S3M-A03
Mounting Beam??? - Part# 50809-S3M-A00
I am unclear on what other mounts might work, whether they are strong enough to last, and whether there are any aftermarket companies that make compatible trans mounts. I can't find anything on Innovative's site...
Shifter Assembly from:
03 CL-S MT (Direct fit) - Part# 54100-S3M-A01
03-07 Accord MT (Three of four bolt holes line up)
98-02 Accord i4 MT (Needs modification)
<-- Any more details?
Is the 04-08 TL shifter compatible?
Linkage from:
HELP ME HERE!
What does the linkage HAVE to be compatible with, if anything? Can I use, say, a 06 TL 6speed with a 98 i4 Accord shifter, and CL-S linkage?
Clutch & Brake Pedal Assembly from:
03 CL-S MT
98-02 Accord i4 MT
^^ Why is it that the Clutch Mounting Bracket costs like $320 for both the CL and Accord, but the 04-08 TL Clutch assembly seems to INCLUDE the bracket, and only costs like $66? That makes no sense to me. And what other clutch / brake pedal assemblies are compatible? TL, 7th Gen Accord, Legend, Civic...?
Clutch Master Cylinder from:
03 CL-S MT
98-02 Accord i4 MT
What else?
Starter from:
03 CL-S MT - Part# 31200-PGE-A11
04-06 TL MT - Part# 31200-RCA-A02
03-07 Accord V6 MT - Part# 31200-RCA-A02
07-08 TL MT? - Part# 31200-RDB-A01
08-11 Accord V6 MT? - Part# 31200-RDB-A01
Hood Clearance!
Since the J32A2 sits higher, you'll have to figure out a way to get your hood to close properly. Options that have been tried:
-Cutting the supports on the underside of the hood
-Cutting and re-welding the motor mounts to sit lower
-Using .6" subframe spacers
<-- This sounds like the best option to me. Is .6" enough to perfectly clear the hood with no rubbing? Does this affect appearance or performance in any way since it would be changing the geometry of the control arms slightly?
Other Helpful Tools:
Craigslist! I can't believe how many people are selling cheap J32's in my area. I bought mine for $300 along with an ECU. Only 60k miles! And then a couple weeks ago I bought a backup/parts motor from some kid for $125!
www.car-part.com is AMAZING for locating used parts.
www.hondaautomotiveparts.com and
www.acuraautomotiveparts.org have excellent exploded view diagrams and great prices. I've found that similar sites are actually very inaccurate.
