Timing belt felt slack

[Smacuraccord]

Just did a valve adjustment on my 2002 4cyl. Coupe. Had to take the upper cover off and the timing belt felt not loose, just not very tight. Went ahead with the adjustment and the #1 cylinder exhaust valves seems a bit noisy. Should I have had the timing belt adjusted before I went ahead with the valves? If so would that explain the noise? Thanks for any help

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[hondatech03]

Can you describe the noise? Is it a clatter, knock, or ping? It could be that it has lost the adjustment cause of the slack in the belt. I would stop driving the car until I found out what it was. You don't want the belt to come off and cause the valves to meet the pistons.

 

[Smacuraccord]

More like a clatter. Not too defined as a low pitch knock or a high pitched ping. When I did the adjustment it seemed like one intake valve per cylinder was spot on and one was a bit over gapped. The same with the exhaust but the one was over tight. Back to the timing belt though. The side that I felt slack was the exhaust side (left side)of the belt. As opposed to the intake side (right side) looking in. Hope that wasn't confusing at all. I didn't go so far as to take the bottom cover off. What side is the tensioner on. Would the side of the tensioner be tight and the other side be more loose? You're freaking me out bro!

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[Smacuraccord]

The belt looked and felt really good. So did the sprocket teeth. But again, only the top cover was off. It was the first timing belt I've ever touched and was just surprised how not tight(I don't want to say loose) the left side of the belt was. It was more loose than the power steering belt. Should they be about the same or is this normal. I was just a tad disappointed with that valve clatter which seems around the #1 cylinder on the exhaust side

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[hondatech03]

More like a clatter. Not too defined as a low pitch knock or a high pitched ping. When I did the adjustment it seemed like one intake valve per cylinder was spot on and one was a bit over gapped. The same with the exhaust but the one was over tight. Back to the timing belt though. The side that I felt slack was the exhaust side (left side)of the belt. As opposed to the intake side (right side) looking in. Hope that wasn't confusing at all. I didn't go so far as to take the bottom cover off. What side is the tensioner on. Would the side of the tensioner be tight and the other side be more loose? You're freaking me out bro!

The belt looked and felt really good. So did the sprocket teeth. But again, only the top cover was off. It was the first timing belt I've ever touched and was just surprised how not tight(I don't want to say loose) the left side of the belt was. It was more loose than the power steering belt. Should they be about the same or is this normal. I was just a tad disappointed with that valve clatter which seems around the #1 cylinder on the exhaust side

Just to be clear I giving you my advice only. I not responsible for anything that happens to you or your car.

It sounds like its the timing belt adjuster. You caught it early, good job. Don't worry, but, don't put it off ether.

I believe what is going on is that there is too much slack in the adjuster/spring and it is going tight, loose, tight. Which does not keep the valve timing correct.

IMO this is what I would fix. #7,8,9,10,13,14,15,17,18,20, 23, and water pump. the balancer parts are optional but you might as well change them while your in there. If it was me I would take it to a good shop or dealer that you trust. It's very easy to fubar your motor if you don't it just right.

If you want to do it yourself can get the parts here.

http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=182014&d=1025&p=1
http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Browse.aspx?h=111&p=1

You will need part #'s

182014
2814409
2814510
2814516
2813404
2813407

 

[hondatech03]

I hoped that helped.

 

[Smacuraccord]

Helps a lot. Thanks for the part numbers. I just readjusted the valves again and got that thing a lot quieter. One other question... when a cylinder is at top dead center should all the other valves on every other cylinder be completely shut? When I finished up on cylinder 2 I noticed that 3 valves on cylinder 1 were open and could wiggle the adjuster assembly like both cylinders were top dead center. Almost like I could've adjusted 2 cylinders at a time. Is that normal or is this a timing issue?

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[hondatech03]

Helps a lot. Thanks for the part numbers. I just readjusted the valves again and got that thing a lot quieter. One other question... when a cylinder is at top dead center should all the other valves on every other cylinder be completely shut?

no problem. When #1 is at tdc #3 will be too. #2 and #4 will be at BDC. The valves should be shut on 1&3 and open on 2&4. All 4 should have very little to no play at all.

(1) (2) (3) (4)

#1 TDC valves closed
#2 BDC valves opened
#3 TDC valves closed
#4 BDC valves opened

When I finished up on cylinder 2 I noticed that 3 valves on cylinder 1 were open and could wiggle the adjuster assembly like both cylinders were top dead center. Almost like I could've adjusted 2 cylinders at a time. Is that normal or is this a timing issue?

That is the timing issue. You fix one and the corresponding cylinder will loosen, cause there is not enough tension to hold it down.

 

[Smacuraccord]

And after a timing belt replacement the valves need to be readjusted again I'm assuming? I was very happy this morning with my valve job and felt very comfortable performing that. But I'm not sure I want to try anything with the timing belt. For me the valve adjustment was much easier than changing a CV axle. How much harder is a timing belt than a valve adjustment?

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[hondatech03]

And after a timing belt replacement the valves need to be readjusted again I'm assuming? I was very happy this morning with my valve job and felt very comfortable performing that. But I'm not sure I want to try anything with the timing belt. For me the valve adjustment was much easier than changing a CV axle. How much harder is a timing belt than a valve adjustment?

Yes, the valves will need to be readjusted after the timing issue is fixed. Doing the valves is not to bad. The timing is a PITA. There is very little space to work with. If it was my car I would take it to honda or a good shop that has done this before, and let them do it. It will be more expensive but if something happens they have to fix it.