f23 dohc?

[Fuzz]

Unless you tune your car you won't really see any performance gains by doing any modification.

You can get a performance gain just by re-tuning your factory engine. Remember... manufactures tune cars for mileage and for maximum reliability.

 

[akoutmos]

I have yet to see a company offering OBD2 reflashing software or ECUs for Hondas. If you are going to retune your engine, you have 3 options: Piggy back ecu, OBD1 conversion, or standalone ecu. The first of the three options is the only way you are going to be able to pass inspection, seeing as the stock ecu is still partially controlling the engine and will be able to interface with ODB2 connectors like the ones the emissions shops use.

 

[idriveanaccord]

ill look into that ^ is it gonna be expensive for the piggy back?

 

[Russianred]

Probably around ~$200-$400. Depending on which one you choose. Greddy, AEM F/IC, Apex'I Neo etc.

Putting Bias aside, if you are on a budget I recommend converting to OBDI. You should also look into Megasquirt standalone - it's half the price of an AEM or Apex'I standalone, but has similar capabilities.

 

[idriveanaccord]

Probably around ~$200-$400. Depending on which one you choose. Greddy, AEM F/IC, Apex'I Neo etc.

Putting Bias aside, if you are on a budget I recommend converting to OBDI. You should also look into Megasquirt standalone - it's half the price of an AEM or Apex'I standalone, but has similar capabilities.

I really want to keep my car smog legal though so i think id have to get the piggy back right? correct me if im wrong i dont fully get this computer stuff haha

 

[akoutmos]

Probably around ~$200-$400. Depending on which one you choose. Greddy, AEM F/IC, Apex'I Neo etc.

Putting Bias aside, if you are on a budget I recommend converting to OBDI. You should also look into Megasquirt standalone - it's half the price of an AEM or Apex'I standalone, but has similar capabilities.

The only problem with megasquirt and obd1 is inspection (at least in CT). Their stupid equipment has to be able to communicate with your stock ecu. Damn EPA such a buzz kill

The piggy-back is your best option to keep it legal imo. The only thing is that you are not going to see lots of improvement over stock unless you do some work to your engine. This means either forced induction or some serious NA mods. I think the Russian will agree that he liked boost just as much as i did

 

[Russianred]

If you want smog-legal, you have the option of doing anything besides the OBD1 conversion. Any option where you use your existing ECU will result in being smog-legal.

 

[akoutmos]

I think AEMs piggy back is one of the best. This is at least what i have seen through experience. You're not going to get your money's worth unless you do some serious engine mods though.

 

[Russianred]

I think the Russian will agree that he liked boost just as much as i did

110%!


Really though, OP you should check out AEM F/IC especially if you are planning serious engine mods such as N/A building or forced induction. In fact, there is one for sale on here right now...

http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24938&highlight=aem+fic

Hope that helps!

- Nikita

 

[idriveanaccord]

as far as serious mods i was debating between building my motor or lightly boosting the stock(like 6 psi) so it stays reliable on my 130 000 mile motor