I think my radiator is about to fail

[sodaks2k]

that leak looks liek it could be the cap... thats a $5 fix so try that first

Replace the cap first and see if it helps?

^that's what I did. I got it all cleaned up so I can tell if/where it's leaking. I'll watch it throughout the week and see what happens.

isnt when the reservoir low, thatch a good thing... it means ur car is not overflowing or boiling over...

It's not good when it KEEPS emptying out of the reservoir (after I fill it, and fill it, and fill it), that's a pretty good indication there's a leak.

i think thers this radiator sealent thing that you just pour into the radiator its self. I bought my radiator kit here but they also might have the flush kit i think http://hondapartsnow.com

I'll pass on the radiator sealant stuff. Honda's don't like crap additives usually. I got a new radiator from autozone with a lifetime warratny for $105. I may be taking it back since I think the cap was all it needed.

also you might spill some tranny fluid, so it'll be a messy job.

I have a manual, so there will be no leaking of the tranny fluid... I think.

 

[HondaLuver83]

What do you mean honda doesnt like additives? We got BK44 and Lucas Oil stabilizer at our dealer

 

[sodaks2k]

What do you mean honda doesnt like additives? We got BK44 and Lucas Oil stabilizer at our dealer

In the maual(s) it says not use additives, somewhere. I read it once and that's good enough for me.

 

[finch13]

For anyone else glancing through this thread, the radiator cap is a 2-way valve, not just a fill point. At 15PSI/1.1bar of pressure in the cooling system, the valve opens and spews coolant into the reservoir, once the engine cools down a bit, it will suck it back into the radiator. A reservoir tank that is filled to the HIGH mark and stays there would indicate a cooling system with no leaks. It's important to use an OEM cap that provides a good seal and functions properly. Some caps out there are only 1-way valves until you pull a lever on top. That's a good way to accidentally ruin your car.

And HondaLuver, just because the dealer sells it doesn't mean it's not snake oil and it doesn't mean the dealer will use it on your car (in a repair). A) The dealer is either going to sell it to you and it's going to make them money and do nothing for you or B) make them money and possibly worsen the problem for you so you'll head back to the dealer soon. If your car had a stumbling problem, the dealer will make more money selling 4 injectors than an injector cleaner, granted that is the problem.

 

[Akodo]

then again, not all additives are bad. You need perform a fuel injection cleaning once in a while, and its consider an additive. Although, the dealer ship is there to sell sell sell, and not help help help. I believe that not all additives are bad, just some. If it were so bad, then i guess they wouldnt even exist because of the complains and stuff. But i guess we can all agree that the dealerships are evil hahaha

 

[finch13]

Honda Coolant (blue stuff) has all the additives you should need. The stop-leak additive is basically a band aid to hold you over until you can fix the problem. In this case, I would use stop leak until buying/replacing the radiator is more convenient.

As far as "liquid bandaids" aka "snake oils" go, there are only a few that I personally think (and use) are worth the money.

1. Lucas Oil Stabilizer/Additive (the tranny stuff works okay too)
2. SeaFoam (haven't tried the new tranny formula yet, probably not the best idea on fragile Honda auto trannys) (this would also be considered an injector cleaner)
3. Sta-Bil Fuel Stabilizer, great for storing gas
4. Radiator Stop-Leak (again, just a bandaid)

Things like Heet, Restore, Octane Booster and other such things are crap (in my opinion).

And injector cleanings aren't that necessary. Yes, fuel can get gummy and ethanol rots just about everything it touches, but as long as you are consistently driving your car and refilling the tank every 3 weeks or so, at the minimum, you shouldn't really need an injector cleaning. Most injectors get stuck open or closed because the electrical component of them fails.

 

[HondaLuver83]

For anyone else glancing through this thread, the radiator cap is a 2-way valve, not just a fill point. At 15PSI/1.1bar of pressure in the cooling system, the valve opens and spews coolant into the reservoir, once the engine cools down a bit, it will suck it back into the radiator. A reservoir tank that is filled to the HIGH mark and stays there would indicate a cooling system with no leaks. It's important to use an OEM cap that provides a good seal and functions properly. Some caps out there are only 1-way valves until you pull a lever on top. That's a good way to accidentally ruin your car.

And HondaLuver, just because the dealer sells it doesn't mean it's not snake oil and it doesn't mean the dealer will use it on your car (in a repair). A) The dealer is either going to sell it to you and it's going to make them money and do nothing for you or B) make them money and possibly worsen the problem for you so you'll head back to the dealer soon. If your car had a stumbling problem, the dealer will make more money selling 4 injectors than an injector cleaner, granted that is the problem.

Those two products I listed previously do not harm your vehicle, but I do get your point.

 

[sodaks2k]

Since I've replaced the rad cap I haven't had any coolant leaking anywhere. But, I can still smell it. I still have the radiator I bought and I don't know if I should take it back or hold onto it.

 

[RedRyder]

I pooped the hood

Sorry I couldn't resist. If you're still smelling the coolant, the last remnants from your initial leak may still be getting burned off. I say that because visually verifying the leak is the important thing, so if you're not seeing anything you may have fixed it. Drive the car for a week and if you still smell it, take a closer look at the hoses, and consider putting in your new radiator.

I feel your pain, my 94 Taurus had coolant leaks constantly.

 

[sodaks2k]

Sorry I couldn't resist.

Lol! That's funny that I typed that.

If you're still smelling the coolant, the last remnants from your initial leak may still be getting burned off. I say that because visually verifying the leak is the important thing, so if you're not seeing anything you may have fixed it. Drive the car for a week and if you still smell it, take a closer look at the hoses, and consider putting in your new radiator.

It's been four weeks since I replaced the cap. Whatever had leaked out should be burned off by now I would think. I'll give it a good once over (again) before I take the radiator back.