Jordan_H
Well-Known Member
Very nice. You should make a thread on debadging it because I believe the master thread is missing the images
What did you do today Auto Detailing related?
- Thread starter CG6Lemon
- Start date
vorin
Well-Known Member
I added padding to, and reuphostered my console armrest.
https://plus.google.com/+TroyMcKeow...6123897382958560770&oid=109547535739901455455
I'm super happy with it.
https://plus.google.com/+TroyMcKeow...6123897382958560770&oid=109547535739901455455
I'm super happy with it.
CG6Lemon
Detailing Enthusiast
Thanks. I'll create a separate thread to assist in filling in that topic.
Looks great! I'm checking the site out atm. How long did the shipping take?
CG6Lemon
Detailing Enthusiast
A cousin recently came over to my house to celebrate Chinese New Year. 4 years ago, he knew I was into detailing, but I haven't seen him for 2 years so he decided to take a sneak peak at my garage. After observing the garage a bit, he knew I was serious with detailing. He contacted me to set up an appointment for me inspect his newly acquired car and to evaluate his goals. We decided upon a restoring and coating his headlights, wash, decontaminate, claybar, and apply a durable sealant.
His passenger side headlight was bad. Driver side was in good condition. Just swirls
Started off using 800 grit with a backing interface as a less aggressive approach
Taped off all edges to prevent any damage from occurring
First pass. As you can see the majority of the oxidation is in the center. The surrounding area that have a uniform white sheet look to it is what we are looking for
Took off the interface pad because it was too slow. Afterwards 800 grit completed
Refined it with 1500 and 3000 grit. Hazy look to it but reflection is coming back slowly
Driver side compounded and polished out. Ready to be coated
Both completed
Washed it after completing the headlights before coating it
Before claying, I used an iron particle remover to remove the particles which the claybar can't reach below the surface
Upon reacting with iron particles, a bleeding effect will occur
Hosed it off then claybared it
Wiped it down then applied one of my favorite sealants. 4-6 month durability
A coating used on headlights
Beading shots of protection
A couple things I learned from this job:
Different pads/compound/polish is mandatory when dealing with headlights after all the original clearcoat is sanded off. Reason is the plastic(polycarbonate) is really soft and without the right set up will instill swirls and scratches
Different softness/plush mf towels is required. Took me 6 different towels before I found one that would not leave scratches with the lightest wipe down for polish dust. This is with including spraying lubrication to towel prior wiping.
Removing iron particles will sometimes require multiple applications
Total time: 6 hr 10 mins
Thanks for viewing as always.
His passenger side headlight was bad. Driver side was in good condition. Just swirls
Started off using 800 grit with a backing interface as a less aggressive approach
Taped off all edges to prevent any damage from occurring
First pass. As you can see the majority of the oxidation is in the center. The surrounding area that have a uniform white sheet look to it is what we are looking for
Took off the interface pad because it was too slow. Afterwards 800 grit completed
Refined it with 1500 and 3000 grit. Hazy look to it but reflection is coming back slowly
Driver side compounded and polished out. Ready to be coated
Both completed
Washed it after completing the headlights before coating it
Before claying, I used an iron particle remover to remove the particles which the claybar can't reach below the surface
Upon reacting with iron particles, a bleeding effect will occur
Hosed it off then claybared it
Wiped it down then applied one of my favorite sealants. 4-6 month durability
A coating used on headlights
Beading shots of protection
A couple things I learned from this job:
Different pads/compound/polish is mandatory when dealing with headlights after all the original clearcoat is sanded off. Reason is the plastic(polycarbonate) is really soft and without the right set up will instill swirls and scratches
Different softness/plush mf towels is required. Took me 6 different towels before I found one that would not leave scratches with the lightest wipe down for polish dust. This is with including spraying lubrication to towel prior wiping.
Removing iron particles will sometimes require multiple applications
Total time: 6 hr 10 mins
Thanks for viewing as always.
CG6Lemon
Detailing Enthusiast
A friend picked up a Lexus LS 430. He brought it over to have me inspect it. Front bumper was resprayed and damaged. All 3 right side lower portion panels were damaged as well. Rear bumper was hit at the corner and cracked the paint and broke one of the rear bumper sensors. Afterwards I took out the paint thickness gauge to take readings. Every panel was OEM paint with readings ranging from an extremely healthy standpoint of 140-190 microns. This makes me believe for this model, the manufacturer was extremely generous laying down the paint.
Next, I moved onto the interior. The interior had a unique combination of style. This was a main factor in purchasing the car. My friend's main concern was the leather perforated seats. It was dirty, and hard for the front 2 seats, but the rear were supple and soft. I went over some options with him, and explained the processes with him about how we were going to approach it. He will decide after doing some research.
Next, I moved onto the interior. The interior had a unique combination of style. This was a main factor in purchasing the car. My friend's main concern was the leather perforated seats. It was dirty, and hard for the front 2 seats, but the rear were supple and soft. I went over some options with him, and explained the processes with him about how we were going to approach it. He will decide after doing some research.
CG6Lemon
Detailing Enthusiast
Played around with the foam cannon. Foam it before initial rinse, let it dwell for 5 mins, then rinse it off and it's done. I will be washing the car every 2 weeks with this method to up keep the easy maintenance.
Used Auto Finesse Avalanche soap
Foamed up
Used Auto Finesse Avalanche soap
Foamed up
Varnell
Well-Known Member
Good information in here. I haven't had an exterior that was nice enough to worry about, but after my paint job I'll be taking notes from this thread.
How's business going these days? I hope you refer people to this page so potential customers understand the depths of what you do for these cars. I used to wash cars and clean out interiors with a friend to make some summer cash. We used quality products, but would have been amazed at how much we weren't doing.
How's business going these days? I hope you refer people to this page so potential customers understand the depths of what you do for these cars. I used to wash cars and clean out interiors with a friend to make some summer cash. We used quality products, but would have been amazed at how much we weren't doing.
CG6Lemon
Detailing Enthusiast
How to safely remove iron particles/contamination from the paint
What are iron particles? To simply put it, it is airborne particles from brake dust, rail road dust, machinery, refineries, and any metal particles your car might come across from driving. Washing the car will have no effect on it because the particles are buried deep into the clearcoat itself. In order to eliminate the particles a dedicated iron remover is required along with claying right after the iron decontamination process is done. This two step process will remove 90% of the iron particles. If left alone for a long duration, rust spots will begin to form, and that's where the real trouble begins.
[Any iron remover product will do the job, but at the moment the most potent product is Iron X. What is iron X? This gentle formula is pH neutral yet incredibly effective at removing build ups even the naked eye can't see. Mist it on the paint, wait 5 minutes and wipe it with a damp sponge or skip the sponge and move on to a thorough rinsing. Upon completion you'll be stunned at how much has been removed with so little effort. It can reduce the amount of contaminants your clay bar can remove by as much as 80%.
To use this product we first recommend washing the vehicle to remove the loose particles. With the vehicle cool to the touch and in the shade shake the bottle thoroughly and mist it on the exterior of your vehicle. We target the wheels and exterior painted sections as that is where it's most effective. It's designed to be safe on all trim and the rest of the exterior but with any new chemical you can do a test spot if you want to be certain. Wait five minutes and wipe the area down with a damp sponge and you'll see the formula turn to a deep and dark red/purple color. After that you can remove it with a damp cloth or thoroughly rinse the vehicle down and you are done. The surface should look and feel much cleaner now!
Tips: Do not let the product fully dry on the surface when possible and make sure you avoid direct sun during the process. Avoid spraying brake calipers and work in a well ventilated area. We recommend wearing rubber gloves and washing your hands right after to be safe]. (Copy and pasted from Detailedimage.com)
This is an example of a car that belongs to a friend of mine. Rust have started already....
Spray it on dry after following the directions and let the chemicals work to dissolve the iron particles. Within 1-2 minutes the product will start working
Clay any remaining spots afterwards to follow up
Afterwards the paint should be free of iron particles. There is no way to avoid it from happening again. As long as you keep driving the car it will pick some up naturally. A good wax, sealant, and paint coating will help slow it down but cannot prevent it.
What are iron particles? To simply put it, it is airborne particles from brake dust, rail road dust, machinery, refineries, and any metal particles your car might come across from driving. Washing the car will have no effect on it because the particles are buried deep into the clearcoat itself. In order to eliminate the particles a dedicated iron remover is required along with claying right after the iron decontamination process is done. This two step process will remove 90% of the iron particles. If left alone for a long duration, rust spots will begin to form, and that's where the real trouble begins.
[Any iron remover product will do the job, but at the moment the most potent product is Iron X. What is iron X? This gentle formula is pH neutral yet incredibly effective at removing build ups even the naked eye can't see. Mist it on the paint, wait 5 minutes and wipe it with a damp sponge or skip the sponge and move on to a thorough rinsing. Upon completion you'll be stunned at how much has been removed with so little effort. It can reduce the amount of contaminants your clay bar can remove by as much as 80%.
To use this product we first recommend washing the vehicle to remove the loose particles. With the vehicle cool to the touch and in the shade shake the bottle thoroughly and mist it on the exterior of your vehicle. We target the wheels and exterior painted sections as that is where it's most effective. It's designed to be safe on all trim and the rest of the exterior but with any new chemical you can do a test spot if you want to be certain. Wait five minutes and wipe the area down with a damp sponge and you'll see the formula turn to a deep and dark red/purple color. After that you can remove it with a damp cloth or thoroughly rinse the vehicle down and you are done. The surface should look and feel much cleaner now!
Tips: Do not let the product fully dry on the surface when possible and make sure you avoid direct sun during the process. Avoid spraying brake calipers and work in a well ventilated area. We recommend wearing rubber gloves and washing your hands right after to be safe]. (Copy and pasted from Detailedimage.com)
This is an example of a car that belongs to a friend of mine. Rust have started already....
Spray it on dry after following the directions and let the chemicals work to dissolve the iron particles. Within 1-2 minutes the product will start working
Clay any remaining spots afterwards to follow up
Afterwards the paint should be free of iron particles. There is no way to avoid it from happening again. As long as you keep driving the car it will pick some up naturally. A good wax, sealant, and paint coating will help slow it down but cannot prevent it.
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CG6Lemon
Detailing Enthusiast
whitederic
Well-Known Member
Tried out a $20 foam gun from Walmart loaded with Griots wash. Not bad for $20 but not very foamy. Still did a decent job. Used some tire cleaner on the hoses and what no in my engine bay. Cleaned up pretty well. Interested to see how it holds up.
