"Big Three / Grounding Kit" - Improving your electrical grounds

[AccordFlex]

I just want to make this clear for some of those buying the knukonceptz cable.

KLMX is made from copper clad aluminum which is 90% aluminum and 10% copper

Fleks is made from solid copper.

The difference between the two is resistance. Copper has less resistance then aluminum does when it comes to current flow. The point of the fleks is not only to be more flexible, but to also move more current. With a single 1/0 piece of fleks, you can expect to move around 350-375 amps.

The reason that the fleks is much more flexible and able to move more current is simple. When shopping for the best wire, one of the most important things to look for is the strand count. Strand count is the amount of metal strands inside of the wire. In this case, the fleks has 5145 strands inside of it allowing it to move around 100-150 more amps of current then the KLMX. The KLMX does not have quite the strand count that the fleks has which makes it less flexible.

For example take two identital piece of wire, only difference in them is the strand count inside. Say they are both the same width of 1/2". One has a strand count of 2500, the other 4200. The cable with the 4200 strand count is going to be the best option. when electrons flow through wire, they flow on the outside of each of the strands inside of the wire. The more strands, the more electrons are able to pass through. It does not matter that the strands in the 4200 are smaller then the 2500 because electrons do not care.

Hopefully this helps a bit with wire choice.

 

[Jianizzle]

I think you'll be okay. If you're that worried, just grab some electrical tape or shrink wrap and cover up that bish.. haha.

 

[AccordFlex]

I also would not recommend simply crimping or smashing the ring terminal to hold the wire in. Over time, the wire can slip out and cause a short. The best method is to solder the wire inside of the ring terminals. Be sure to use rosin core solder for this application.

Basically you put the wire inside of the ring terminal to make the wire meet to the tip of the inside part of the terminal. Then you clamp these down so they do not move. heat up the ring terminal itself and when hot enough, take your rosin core solder and press it against the inside of the ring part of the terminal letting it fall into the wire. Keep doing this to make a nice pool of solder inside the terminal.

Here is the best demonstration of how to do this.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?showtopic=6399&hl=solder+ring+terminals

 

[CG6Lemon]

solder is not neccesary but if u want to solder then go ahead. either option works fine.

 

[Sketch o5]

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?showtopic=6399&hl=solder+ring+terminals

does that really hold that well, without crimping them at all? id much rather do that than try to crimp these damn things. i hate it, haha.

 

[ryan s]

ill be giving that a shot when the rest of my **** comes. i dont know if theres any gas left but i always have the 1050 degree heat gun.

 

[Jianizzle]

That soldering sounds intense. I used a hammer if that matters.. haha.

 

[Sketch o5]

i used pliers, then remembered about the vice in my friends shop

but i was only doing 4g wire for my sub, haha.

 

[ryan s]

hammer, bench vise, vise grips...those have all been utilized in the past dont think i've ever had an issue. had to ground come out of the amp once...but that was my brother's fault

 

[whitegourd]

Did this just yesterday and noticed a difference. Only did the neg-chassis, neg-trans, and block-chassis. Used the screw type ring terminals. Cutting the cable wasn't as hard as I thought (used a hacksaw). Only concern is if the cable slips out of these ring terminals over time. Going to loctite them soon just to be sure.